Replaced spark plugs in 3vze, now running like ass, thoughts?
09-05-2010, 08:38 AM
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Replaced spark plugs in 3vze, now running like ass, thoughts?
Plug wires are about a month old. I bought the V-Power plugs after reading all the praise they recieved in the other threads. Also left them at stock gap after reading (this is where I'm thinking I went wrong). I'm 100% confident the plugs are in correctly, as in not cross threaded or not in all the way. After installing the plugs the truck ran like trash... if it's not struggling to keep an idle it's completely dying. When accelerating, however, it's almost not noticeable. It also died when I left off the gas to make a turn into my neighborhood... I have also noticed a slight smell of burnt / unburnt gas. What's the first thought that comes into your guys' mind of the potential problem here? Thanks for the help, all.
09-05-2010, 08:52 AM
#2
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gotta be something you just fooled with. Check the wires first of all. Usually the boots slide up and down the wires fairly easily so the wire might not have clipped on the plug properly.
Still a no go then recheck your gap.
Still a no go then recheck your gap.
09-05-2010, 08:57 AM
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09-05-2010, 09:52 AM
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100% pretty sure (hahaha)those NGKs say do not gap! i just put some in myself. ALSO. when replacing mine i have the friendly leaking valve cover gasket, this has put a lot of unwanted sludge all over my old boots, i found it to be a difficult task on cylinders 5 and 6 to make sure i wasn't rubbing the end of the plug and making NO contact with the dirt/ grime as i put them in. IF you did something like this and got stuff all over your plugs right near the gap i could see this as an ENORMOUS problem. maybe double check?
Last edited by vital22re; 09-06-2010 at 11:42 PM. Reason: edited for language
09-05-2010, 01:18 PM
#11
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NGK's website.
3. Gapping
Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature
and on the voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability
in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need.
A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark.
With this mind, many think the larger the gap the better. In fact, some aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can tolerate gaps that are extreme. Be wary of such claims. In most cases, the largest gap you can run may still be smaller than you think.
Since the gap size has a direct affect on the spark plug's tip temperature
and on the voltage necessary to ionize (light) the air/fuel mixture, careful attention is required. While it is a popular misconception that plugs are pre-gapped from the factory, the fact remains that the gap must be adjusted for the vehicle that the spark plug is intended for. Those with modified engines must remember that a modified engine with higher compression or forced induction will typically require a smaller gap settings (to ensure ignitability
in these denser air/fuel mixtures). As a rule, the more power you are making, the smaller the gap you will need.
A spark plug's voltage requirement is directly proportionate to the gap size. The larger the gap, the more voltage is needed to bridge the gap. Most experienced tuners know that opening gaps up to present a larger spark to the air/fuel mixture maximizes burn efficiency. It is for this reason that most racers add high power ignition systems. The added power allows them to open the gap yet still provide a strong spark.
With this mind, many think the larger the gap the better. In fact, some aftermarket ignition systems boast that their systems can tolerate gaps that are extreme. Be wary of such claims. In most cases, the largest gap you can run may still be smaller than you think.
09-05-2010, 04:47 PM
#14
Check the spark plug wire's distributor connections too. Early 3vze's don't have the clips that hold the wires to the distributor cap better. And frequently those ends of the wires will back off or out of their connection points with the earlier design distributor caps. Hence their later being upgraded with clip-on connectors in attempt to solve that issue.
On the gap issue, ALWAYS ATLEAST CHECK THE GAPS BEFORE INSTALLING. More often than you might want to believe, THEY AREN'T GOING TO BE GAPPED CORRECTLY STRAIGHT OUT OF THE BOX. I've installed so many spark plugs in my life that it's impossible to remember the exact number. What have I found the gaps to be straight out of the box, regardless of brand/type/price? ATLEAST 50% OF THE TIME THEY ARE NOT GAPPED CORRECTLY. It doesn't matter what kind of spark plug it is or where I bought it.
The only standard-type plugs(i.e. single ground strap/single center electrode) you "shouldn't" adjust the gaps on are those with precious metal constituents(i.e. platinum, iridium, or any fine-wire center electrode types).
I personally adjust, if needed, any and all types which can be. Just with much more care taken with the spendy ones that say not to. If you are careful/gentle enough with them you won't have any trouble doing so. The words of caution given are there to let you know that they can easily be damaged by doing so. Not that it's impossible to do so. Just that for those not experienced enough to handle that concept, it isn't a great idea. The manufacturers know that of all the things that are regularly serviced on an engine, spark plugs are generally going to be changed out by the vehicle's owner in an effort to save money. And that most folks, be they mechanically inclined or not, believe it's a task that they can handle(or have their boyfriend/husband handle for them). Certainly not something requiring any professional assistance. So they feel the need to state that for the purposes of keeping the inept from messing them up by not being that familiar with the process of gapping spark plugs or the delicacy of some spark plug types vs. others.
Again, I reiterate, ALWAYS CHECK THE GAPS FIRST. If you don't want to try adjusting one that you think you "shouldn't", then take the incorrectly gapped plug(s) back and try another of the same brand/type. Switching to another brand or type won't necessarily give you any better odds of getting ones that are going to be correctly gapped right out of the box. Like I said, not in my experience has that proven to be true, or therefor would be a wise decision to make.
On the gap issue, ALWAYS ATLEAST CHECK THE GAPS BEFORE INSTALLING. More often than you might want to believe, THEY AREN'T GOING TO BE GAPPED CORRECTLY STRAIGHT OUT OF THE BOX. I've installed so many spark plugs in my life that it's impossible to remember the exact number. What have I found the gaps to be straight out of the box, regardless of brand/type/price? ATLEAST 50% OF THE TIME THEY ARE NOT GAPPED CORRECTLY. It doesn't matter what kind of spark plug it is or where I bought it.
The only standard-type plugs(i.e. single ground strap/single center electrode) you "shouldn't" adjust the gaps on are those with precious metal constituents(i.e. platinum, iridium, or any fine-wire center electrode types).
I personally adjust, if needed, any and all types which can be. Just with much more care taken with the spendy ones that say not to. If you are careful/gentle enough with them you won't have any trouble doing so. The words of caution given are there to let you know that they can easily be damaged by doing so. Not that it's impossible to do so. Just that for those not experienced enough to handle that concept, it isn't a great idea. The manufacturers know that of all the things that are regularly serviced on an engine, spark plugs are generally going to be changed out by the vehicle's owner in an effort to save money. And that most folks, be they mechanically inclined or not, believe it's a task that they can handle(or have their boyfriend/husband handle for them). Certainly not something requiring any professional assistance. So they feel the need to state that for the purposes of keeping the inept from messing them up by not being that familiar with the process of gapping spark plugs or the delicacy of some spark plug types vs. others.
Again, I reiterate, ALWAYS CHECK THE GAPS FIRST. If you don't want to try adjusting one that you think you "shouldn't", then take the incorrectly gapped plug(s) back and try another of the same brand/type. Switching to another brand or type won't necessarily give you any better odds of getting ones that are going to be correctly gapped right out of the box. Like I said, not in my experience has that proven to be true, or therefor would be a wise decision to make.
Last edited by MudHippy; 09-05-2010 at 04:54 PM.
09-06-2010, 03:22 PM
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Thanks for all the info guys. Pulled the plugs again, re-gapped to ~.035, re-installed. Still ran like trash. The plugs that I pulled out were at a .040 gap?? Anyway, after adjusting the idle, it ran much better. So far so good...
09-06-2010, 04:07 PM
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Id have to say that ither you have a few plugs with cracked porcelin,(sorry cant spell) or have a few bad wires, ive had it happen to me a few times in my lifetime from ither myself dropping the plug or the automotive shop, so check and make sure your getting spark. Lemme know how it goes.
09-06-2010, 04:46 PM
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You might want to check that you didn't create a vacuum leak when you replaced the plugs - that could create a poor idle like you describe. Check the intake tubing to the throttle body (since you would have had to remove this), and the mass of hoses on the passenger side that could easily get tweaked when you removed plug #5.
