Ruined Adventures

So I'm getting ready to replace the driver's side CV axle on my '87 4runner because the cv boot is pretty torn up and I want to nip that in the bud before the problem snowballs. I've already spent days searching and rummaging threads online so I need to do something. I'm planning on driving from Austin, TX to Seattle, WA in two weeks .

I've never done a repair like this so I'm a bit hesitant. I should have most the tools I'd need and I technically live in a 1200sf shop, so tools and space are not the issue. Usually when I tackle a project like this, I end up taking longer than I'm supposed to and I always do it the hard way Gotta love that learning curve...Before anyone mentions it, I'm not gonna SAS it so save your breath for another discussion This is a daily driver/expedition vehicle, not a rock crawler. Like I said, I've used the search feature but still have questions.

I have manual hubs, so I almost wonder if I should wait until after the trip. I don't PLAN on going far offroad or using 4wd...but then again, we will be camping in Arches Nat'l Park & I'll be oh so close to Moab. As long as I stay out of 4wd, would I be alright?

Here are my biggest questions:
I've heard that once you pound/press out the studs on the stub axles it's wise to replace them with nuts/bolts to make the axles a "quick change" on the next go around. But what size nuts/bolts should I use and where would I find them. I assume I replace all of the pressed studs. Will I be able to find the right nuts/bolts at my local hardware store or what? I want to do this myself, so if it ever happens on the road I'll be Mr Fix-it, but keep in mind: this is my first time goofing around with IFS. Before the trip I'm also replacing the oil pan gasket, the lower radiator hose and the passenger side lower ball joint because I'm getting some lovely clunking sounds and I need an alignment...Are these reasonable for me to tackle myself, or should I just retire my nutsack and pay to have it done?

Also, are there any specialty tools I'll need for this job?

Any tips and advice would really be appreciated.

thralldad

Swapping axles is not hard. You can get the 54mm (2 1/16) socket for cheap at HF. I'd do it before that long haul. HTH!

JollyGreen

I just reversed the studs when I pulled them out, and used them as bolts from the other side.
from the factory, they press in one way, but if you put them in from the other side... no press fit, they are just bolts.

scope103

Others may disagree, but YOU DON'T NEED TO press out the studs. (Really; do you think the engineers in Tokyo intended for you to tear up the drive train just to do maintenance?)

The problem many run into is caused by poor documentation in the FSM. If you have the truck sitting on jack stands with the front wheels dangling, the angle of the half-shaft is wrong and you will not be able to get it out (without the sledge hammer and cutting torch method). Instead, When you remove the half-shafts you have to have the front suspension compressed just like it is sitting on the wheels. (When I do it, I just put a jack under the rotor, and lift until the weight comes off the jack stand.) If you do that, the half-shaft will come right out with the studs in place.

Some on this site have gone one tiny step further; they jack up the opposite corner just a touch. This gives a little more compression on the corner you're working on. I haven't needed it, but I'd try that long before I took a sledge hammer to my truck.


And yes, I'd get that fixed before I drove any further. All you're doing now is injecting sand into the CV joint, grinding away the metal you can't replace.

betelnut

Howdy from Austin.

Scopa103 is right. When I did the CVs, I put the truck on jack stands on the crossmember, had the worst time getting them out. When I put them back, the truck was on the ground, went in no problem.

Not sure if your manual hubs have those cone washers, but if they do, go get a 5/8" brass drift and 3 lb. sledge from Harbor Freight right now, and don't hit the studs with a steel hammer.

When I replaced the oil pan FIPG (don't buy the cork gasket from Fel-Pro, the FSM says use FIPG), it helped a lot to lower the diff and to remove the idler arm from the frame. Three bolts each, and a jack for the diff. Having the diff loose helped a little with getting the half shafts out too.

Good luck.

Ruined Adventures

I could use some advice. I started on it today and I'm stuck...I'm trying to remove the six driveaxle-to-differential side gear flange nuts. Unfortunately, when i have my girlfriend push on the brakes, and I try to loosen them the axle keeps turning...the Chilton's and Haynes manuals I have keep saying to have the hubs free, then have someone press the brakes while trying to loosen them. I feel like a complete idiot right now because I'm hardly anywhere on this "simple repair" and I can't even get past the first simple steps! I've been searching on here but I'm quickly wasting my days off while trying to find what I'm looking for.

THanks for all your replies and help so far.

AxleIke

If the hubs are free, then pressing on the brakes does nothing.

Lock the hub, then press on the brakes, and break those nuts loose. Before you remove the hub itself, you will need to put it back in the free position, as its just easier that way.

I couldn't get mine out with the studs, so the fastest way, IMO, is to remove the ball joint from the knuckle (4 small bolts) and just swing the knuckle out. Very quick. Very easy.

Ruined Adventures

That's exactly what I was thinking (locking the hubs) but I wasn't sure if that would ruin something or not. Thanks Axle Ike! I'll give it a shot.

Ruined Adventures

I'm starting to wish I just paid to have this done ...

I finally got the axle out of that mouse trap. I tried jacking up the opposite corner, but I still needed clearance so I went ahead and just removed the steering knuckle to get it out along with the ball joints. I was thinking while replacing a cv axle, I may as well do the upper & lower ball joints right?

Well, my upper ball joint nut is stripped to hell and I can't get the lower ball joint out of the steering knuckle . I'm getting really tempted to take a cutting wheel to the upper ball joint, and I might try to press the lower ball joint out with a vise?...anyone have a better idea? I'm SO knee deep now.

iamsuperbleeder

when I did my IFS rebuild, that lower ball joint was definitely the hardest part to remove

How are you going about this; you're using a ball joint remover or pitman arm remover tool right? not just a hammer?

Ruined Adventures

Finally got it. I used a pickle fork or whatever the hell you want to pry the upper ball joint from the upper control arm. I used a two-jaw puller to get the lower ball joint free of the lower control arm. Then I removed the steering knuckle, put it in a vise and used some vise grips and elbow grease to remove the stripped nut holding the ubj in. Unfortunately, the lbj's flange was practically sealed to the stearing knuckle so I had to pry the hell out of it to get it completely free...long story short, I did it all the hard way. Now I have to put this mess back together.

Ruined Adventures

So it looks like the reman. axle is missing the little dust seal that goes from the inboard side of the steering knuckle thru the hub.

It seems like other people have noticed the same thing, but I haven't found whether this is ok or not. I'm not done bolting everything back together because I don't want to completely finish up before I've got this addressed. From what it looks like right now, that will leave a pretty big gap for crap to get in there...will this seal up okay once I have the axle sprocket looking deal and snap spring reinstalled or do I need to go to the parts store? I tried to pull the old one of the removed axle but it doesn't seem like something that can come off & be reinstalled.

Any advise would be appreciated.

betelnut

Hey red87, good job, sounds like you're making good progress and doing the job right.

I'm glad you reminded me about the dust seal. When I did mine a few weeks ago, one of my reman axles came with it, the other came without. I put it in anyway, planning to replace it later (yeah, I'm a sucker for punishment). I'd already traded in the cores, so didn't get to look at the seal.

You can get the seal from the dealership. For my '95, P/N 90316-60004. I see one on toyotapartsoutlet.com for $25.80 (they've got a $5 shipping special right now), or you could get it at Champion's parts counter for probably twice that. Sucks that it costs almost half as much as the axle itself!

Ruined Adventures

I ended up taking out the remanufactured axle because of that missing seal, I didn't feel right leaving it that way. Apparently some reman's come with it, and some don't. I just used the brand new axle from O'reilly's that I was gonna use on the other side. At least it has a lifetime warranty. I'm going to take back the reman axle that I bought and try to exchange it with one that has the seal, or I'll just buy another brand new one. Once I get that I'll do the passenger side, along with those ball joints. It the other side's axle looks like it's in real good shape so I'll be keeping it as a spare. Now that I've got the whole process figured out it should be a breeze.

Not sure what the 54mm or 2.5" socket was recommended for. I never even opened the packaging, so I'll go get my money back. Those cone washers weren't bad at all, the tapered punch made it easy.

Scope103 & Betelnut, your advice helped me a ton. I unbolted the 4 bolts on the lower ball joint, then started to jack underneath the rotor until it was able to separate from the steering knuckle (of course I had to pry at the ball joint flange a little to get it loose). I found out the hard way that you don't want to jack the rotor up too high, other wise the ball joint will come completely out and the weight of the upper control arm made it a PITA to get the ball joint back in. After I did that though, I unbolted the bottom of the shock to make a little more room and it was just enough to jiggle that axle out of the way. WITHOUT having to drive out those studs with the hammer or cutting torch method...

Betelnut, what does FIPG stand for? I'm glad you said something about that because I bought the Fel Pro cork gasket. Glad I always save my receipts...

AxleIke

54mm wrench is only if you are removing the rotor, and hub to repack bearings. It removes the spindle nuts. Since you were changing an axle, you had zero need for it. However, I would not return it, as it is a very handy thing to have with you.

FIPG= Form In Place Gasket= silicone gastket maker. I like ultra copper and ultra black, depending on the application.

Ruined Adventures

Good point. I'll keep it in the tool box just in case.

[/quote]FIPG= Form In Place Gasket= silicone gastket maker. I like ultra copper and ultra black, depending on the application.[/quote]

Thanks. It looks like the FIPG is only something I can order online? I'm not seeing it thru any of the major chain parts stores.

xxxtreme22r

FIPG is the toyota oem verision of RTV. you can get it at yur dealership.

AxleIke

Or at any parts store.

betelnut

Hey red87, congrats again.

There's a long thread around here about what's the best FIPG to use. I use Permatex Ultra Grey because a lot of people here swear by it, it's cheap, and you can get a big tube at AutoZone. Others like Hylomar, which is expensive and hard to find, and still others have their own favorites.

You have the FSM right? The FSM doesn't say to use a gasket on the oil pan, just FIPG. Folks here (there's another long thread) say don't use the cork gaskets, because they just start leaking soon. Also, you may even find that once you get those two gaskets in there, your oil pan bolts won't even be long enough to thread in anymore! Just return it.

Ruined Adventures

Okay, thanks for all the help folks. Finally got all ball joints & both cv axles done...hopefully I never have to deal with that again.

Unfortunately I didn't feel like I had enough time before the epic road trip to replace that oil pan gasket. It never leaks enough to add have to add oil, so I figured it will make it till I get back. It is on my list of things to do when I get back, and thanks to all the good pointers it shouldn't be too bad. The main concern was the oil leak degrading my lower radiator hose, but I replaced that, flushed the cooling system and replaced the upper hose & thermostat while I was at it. Now I've got the old hoses and thermostat as trail spares and we'll have plenty of fluids in case there's a catastrophe...cross your fingers for us. TX to WA to MT to TX or bust.