Replace #2 idler pulley
11-30-2016, 10:29 AM
#1
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Replace #2 idler pulley
I replaced my timing belt, waterpump, all pulleys and tensioner a couple years ago, and don't have enough miles on the new hardware to warrant another full teardown and replace. However, I developed a small coolant leak at the #2 camshaft idler pulley/water outlet. Has anybody attempted replacing this without completely removing the timing belt? I assume it'd be next to impossible due to belt tension, but just thought I'd see if anybody knew a trick that I don't.
11-30-2016, 12:39 PM
#2
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Water leak AT the outlet? Are you sure it isn't just the seal between the outlet and the idler pulley assembly? The outlet (at least on mine) has a groove that holds the RTV (or FIPG or whatever you really like). If installed with too little to fill that groove, it might leak. That fix doesn't require removal of anything other than the upper radiator hose and outlet.
If you do need to replace the idler pulley, you'll need to remove the tensioner to get the tension off the belt. But you won't need to remove the belt, so you don't need to remove the crankbolt, which is a good thing.
If you do need to replace the idler pulley, you'll need to remove the tensioner to get the tension off the belt. But you won't need to remove the belt, so you don't need to remove the crankbolt, which is a good thing.
11-30-2016, 12:44 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Water leak AT the outlet? Are you sure it isn't just the seal between the outlet and the idler pulley assembly? The outlet (at least on mine) has a groove that holds the RTV (or FIPG or whatever you really like). If installed with too little to fill that groove, it might leak. That fix doesn't require removal of anything other than the upper radiator hose and outlet.
If you do need to replace the idler pulley, you'll need to remove the tensioner to get the tension off the belt. But you won't need to remove the belt, so you don't need to remove the crankbolt, which is a good thing.
If you do need to replace the idler pulley, you'll need to remove the tensioner to get the tension off the belt. But you won't need to remove the belt, so you don't need to remove the crankbolt, which is a good thing.
I might have not used enough RTV, it lasted a couple years at least. I will pull the hydraulic tensioner, mark the belt and cam gears, then slap the new idler assembly on. That's pretty much what I was expecting. Thanks for the input.
11-30-2016, 04:35 PM
#4
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When I changed mine I used vise grips to hold the cams & belt, loosened the #1 pulley, changed the #2 pulley, chinched up the #1, removed the vise grips, tightened the #1 tensioner.......put the covers back on....
11-30-2016, 05:59 PM
#5
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Thread Starter
Quick question, did you change it because of leakage, or pully bearing issue? Reason I ask is if it was due to leakage do you happen to recall where you noticed it dripping from on the truck to the ground? I can clearly see my #2 idler is a leak spot looking behind the timing cover with a flashlight, but the path it takes to the ground is an interesting one. I mostly notice a drip hanging off the steering linkage, AC idler pulley bracket, or just hanging along the passenger side of the oil pan. I try tracing it up, but a lot of area on the passenger side above AC comp is hidden pretty well. Freeze plugs are dry also, so not a lot of coolant leak spots left on the passenger side.
I'm just curious of your experience, I am at work 6 days a week lately without much time to work on my truck. I'll pull the timing covers as soon as I have time and rule out the water pump myself, but I don't feel that is the source, it seems dry around that area and the lower cover. Thanks for the input.
