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Removing the Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Question

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Old 04-05-2011, 12:13 PM   #1
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Removing the Crankshaft Pulley Bolt Question

I am the new owner of a 1994 Toyota 4x4 Pickup with only 127,000 miles and a new member to the forums. Unfortunately when I pulled the valve cover off I noticed that I needed to replace the timing chain and cover because of bad grooves on the drivers side and non-existent guides.
Anyway I have done a good bit of research and am confident that I can do it myself but I have a couple of questions concerning the removal of the crankshaft pulley bolt.

In the Chilton manual is says to matchmark the pulleys and use a counter holding bar to hold the crankshaft while removing the bolt but on http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml
it says "


The hardest step in the replacement will be breaking the bolt that holds the puley to the crankshaft. Best option is to break it loose with the engine's starter, tranny in neutral, wire off the coil. Use a 6-point (sided), 19mm, impact socket and a breaker bar long enough to reach the frame rail, then bump the starter until the bolt breaks free. Best to address this step early on in the process, instead of waiting until the engine is torn half-way down and starter operation is not possible. This is step 18 below. Other options include putting the tranny in 5th gear, engage 4WD if possible, e-brake on, chock the wheels and see if the clutch will hold the engine from turning; or pull the starter and try to jam a pry bar into the flywheel teeth to lock it in place. It is a good idea to place the engine at TDC prior to removing the crank pulley from the engine.


So my questions are:

What does "wire off the coil" mean exactly and how do I "bump" the starter?
What is the point of matchmarking the pulleys before removal?

Thanks for the help and I am sure this wont be the first post of many.
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:17 PM   #2
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wire off the coil is the spark plug looking wire so your engine doesnt start when you break the bolt loose, and as far as marking im pretty sure its keyed so it shouldnt be a big deal. someone will correct me if im wrong
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:46 PM   #3
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Cool thanks Blake. I thought they were keyed so that is why I was asking about the marking.
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:13 PM   #4
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Meaning pull the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor. It looks like a spark plug wire. When you bump the starter use ignition switch to turn the engine just enough to where you need it. Then turn the engine by hand to where you need it to be.

I usually use an impact to get the pulley bolt off, but a long pull-handle will work also. After you break loose the bolt, double check the timing marks are correct on the crank and the engine is at TDC before you pull the main pulley off.

There should be some pics on here of the correct timing alignment, but if you need ill post one up.
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Old 04-05-2011, 07:45 PM   #5
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I actually just did mine. I put it in 5th gear in 4x4 with all the wheels blocked and the ebrake set... The truck was still moving but with the help of a 4ft pipe on mt braker bar I got it off. IT is a B**CH to get off, but possible
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Old 04-05-2011, 08:29 PM   #6
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I just made sure the breaker bar was resting against the steering gear box. (definetley not on any hoses or fittings). The right side of the engine compartment, looking down from the front. When I bumped the starter a couple of times the bar bounced off, but it did break the bolt loose.
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Old 04-06-2011, 04:24 AM   #7
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I lucked out and was able to break mine loose by pulling the e-brake and putting it in 4th gear. Might try that first and if it doesn't budge with 200 ft-lb use the starter trick.

No need to matchmark the pulley. Only goes on one way.
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:25 AM   #8
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Thanks guys. I am doing it today so I will let you know how it goes.
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Old 04-06-2011, 09:42 AM   #9
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How are you going to get that bolt back in there? The required torque is around 140 ft-lbs (I'm estimating the exact number -- you need to look it up). The starter isn't going to do you any good at all for that.

So don't be lazy now and regretful later. Build yourself a tool to hold the harmonic damper against the torque of your breaker bar. Do a search here; I like the tool I built (bed frame rail machined with an angle grinder), but there are lots of very good ideas.

I know that lots of other people have used their starter to loosen that bolt (and I haven't got a clue what they did to re-install it). But I just don't like the idea of having a breaker bar swinging uncontrolled in the engine compartment.

Just one man's opinion.
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Old 04-06-2011, 10:02 AM   #10
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see my thread to see how i did it.

"thread B" in my sig
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Old 04-06-2011, 11:04 AM   #11
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I used the same trick for tightening it. I was either 112 ft-lb or 120.
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Old 04-06-2011, 05:52 PM   #12
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To get it back in just put the truck in gear and turn it..the clutch should hold it. You could also take out the starter and use something that will hold the flywheel while you turn the bolt...The bump trick wont work since the engine rotates the same way the threads turn.
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Old 04-07-2011, 12:30 PM   #13
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Timing Mark

Ok Got the bolt to loosen with the starter trick. Now I am a little confused about what to scribe when checking the timing on TDC. I turned the crankshaft pulley until the mark on the cam sprocket was at 12:00 and the spline on the crank pulleys are at 12:00 also. I cant see the mark on the crank sprocket yet so I noted where the mark was on the timing thing. It a bit for off 0 and is closer to the 2 so am I doing something wrong? Do I need to take the 1 sparkplug out and make sure it is at the top of its stroke? Or does it not have to bee on 0 at TDC? Thanks


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Old 04-08-2011, 09:06 AM   #14
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So I took off the cover of the distributor and it is firing at the 1 cylinder so i am pretty sure I have everything correct. Just want to double check before I remove the pulley.

Here is what I have:
Cam shaft sprocket with the mark at 12:00 position
Crank shaft pulley with the spline at 12:00 position
Distributor firing at the 1 cylinder

**Also the scribe that is on the crank pulley isnt in line with the spline. if it was it would be lined up with the 0 on the timing thing so I think I am ok.

Thanks fellas
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:27 AM   #15
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I just came up with a new way to hold the pulley when i was doing a head gasket on a honda the other day. I took the long strap from a ratchet strap and wrapped it around the pulley a bunch of times and hooked it to the frame. It worked great.
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:45 AM   #16
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Or, if you can find an old timing belt: http://www.yotatech.com/51094700-post10.html

The thing I like about the strap wrench is that it doesn't put all the strain on just two small bolts. It gently holds the entire pulley, yet holds it firmly. Plenty strong enough, even for the 3VZE pulley at 181 ft lbs. And it's not limited to just the crank pulley. Works just as well on the 3VZE cam pulleys, and it held the driveshaft great when I was replacing my carrier bearing.

Last edited by sb5walker; 04-09-2011 at 10:23 PM.
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:55 AM   #17
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I apologize in advance for my ignorance, but is the crank pulley on these engines different from other crank pullies? I can only assume that one end of the crank pulley slides into the motor and acts as some sort of timing mark? this still doesn't make sense to me because every other crank pulley that I know of is simply a means to spin accessories via a belt. Crank pullies don't have anything to do with timing.
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Old 04-08-2011, 10:57 AM   #18
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Prepare for flames.
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Old 04-08-2011, 11:02 AM   #19
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Sorry, I just googled it and figured out why it makes a difference. It looks like it is used as the timing mark like the harmonic balancer is used on a chevy.

I probably should have researched it before the last post.
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Old 04-08-2011, 11:05 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sb5walker View Post
Prepare for flames.
yeah, that was a real "noob" thing to post, huh?
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