removing crank bolt
#1
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removing crank bolt
I already got it off so that's not the problem. I'm disassembling my motor for a rebuild. If yall remember the video I posted I had a slight knock at low rpms and lost all power.
Before I had to go to work today I started taking the motor apart. Well my starter went bad so I wasn't going to be able to gap the starter method and I knew from all the stories I had read that removing the bolt was going to be a pita.
While I was taking everything off I decided to go ahead and try to remove it. I grabbed a socket to see if it would fit. And when I put it on there I jiggled the socket with my hand to ensure a tight fit. When I did that the bolt moved!
Now I'm not complaining that it was easy to get off but would that of had any effect on the motor? I lost all my oil through a seal I'm assuming. I had oil everywhere. Dripping in the skid plate. Thrown on the hood. But when I added more oil it never leaked out.
Why would that crank bolt be so loose?
Before I had to go to work today I started taking the motor apart. Well my starter went bad so I wasn't going to be able to gap the starter method and I knew from all the stories I had read that removing the bolt was going to be a pita.
While I was taking everything off I decided to go ahead and try to remove it. I grabbed a socket to see if it would fit. And when I put it on there I jiggled the socket with my hand to ensure a tight fit. When I did that the bolt moved!
Now I'm not complaining that it was easy to get off but would that of had any effect on the motor? I lost all my oil through a seal I'm assuming. I had oil everywhere. Dripping in the skid plate. Thrown on the hood. But when I added more oil it never leaked out.
Why would that crank bolt be so loose?
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somebody else must have worked on the motor as those crank bolts are supposed to be super torqued.
I doubt the loose crank bolt had an effect on your motor, but someone else may have done a poor job replacing the crank seal in the past.
I doubt the loose crank bolt had an effect on your motor, but someone else may have done a poor job replacing the crank seal in the past.
#5
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If I remember correctly it's some insane number... like 181 ft/lb... I might be a lb or 2 off... it's been a few weeks since I've torqued one.
I'd be a bit concerned about the last person that tightened it...
I'd be a bit concerned about the last person that tightened it...
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I just wonder why that bolt was so loose and if that could have anything to do with the motor loosing oil. As far as I know it is original.
I can take a picture of the bolt but their is no markings. Indentions or any wear on the bolt head as of its been messed with or removed in the past. I'm not saying it hadn't been messed with. Just kinda weird...
I wonder if I should just go through the whole truck tightening every bolt I can see or get to.
I can take a picture of the bolt but their is no markings. Indentions or any wear on the bolt head as of its been messed with or removed in the past. I'm not saying it hadn't been messed with. Just kinda weird...
I wonder if I should just go through the whole truck tightening every bolt I can see or get to.
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You've probably already figured this out: you're eventually going to want to tighten that crank bolt. If it's a 6cyl, the spec is 181 ft-lbs (a little less for the 4cyl). So you're going to need a tool to hold the crank while you put a boat-load of torque on that bolt. So search this forum, pick out the style tool you like, and build-buy it now. Yeah, you might be able to remove the bolt with a trick like using the starter, but it doesn't do you any good on the reinstall part.
That bolt holds the harmonic balancer, which holds the crankshaft timing pulley, which sits on the front oil seal. If that assembly is loose, I wouldn't be surprised if the seal got hammered and started leaking. So you'll need to replace that seal for sure.
That bolt holds the harmonic balancer, which holds the crankshaft timing pulley, which sits on the front oil seal. If that assembly is loose, I wouldn't be surprised if the seal got hammered and started leaking. So you'll need to replace that seal for sure.
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Yeah its a 22re. I'm tearing the motor completely down for a rebuild so I'm def. Gunna replace that seal.
Haven't pulled the motor yet so idk what condition the crank is in. If it is pretty bad where is a good place to get one and what kind of prices are we looking at?
Haven't pulled the motor yet so idk what condition the crank is in. If it is pretty bad where is a good place to get one and what kind of prices are we looking at?
#12
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http://www.japanengine.com/ has reasonably priced cranks and rods.
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check this site out for all your needs http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/
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thank you for the link, my net has been down majority of the week and searching on my BB isnt any help at all.
just got it back up and running, but i have to head to the new place to lay some tile, so many things to do so little time!
just got it back up and running, but i have to head to the new place to lay some tile, so many things to do so little time!
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i just checked the link, i would imagine the machine shops prices to fix my oe would be pretty close to what i could buy a new one for...
http://www.japanengine.com/products/...&search=&page=
hard to beat 160$ including shipping.
http://www.japanengine.com/products/...&search=&page=
hard to beat 160$ including shipping.
#16
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man i just took my spare block to the machine shop today.
thermo cleaning $95.00
bore and hone $125.00
turn the crankshaft $95.00
rebuild head plus parts $265.00
Engine Kit $215.31
ya $812.53 is my total... after tax....
thermo cleaning $95.00
bore and hone $125.00
turn the crankshaft $95.00
rebuild head plus parts $265.00
Engine Kit $215.31
ya $812.53 is my total... after tax....
#17
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are you putting it together yourself?
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