remove ignition switch bypass
#1
remove ignition switch bypass
1st post on this forum....been searching for a while but cant seem to find the answer. i picked up a 88 4runner 22re about 8 months ago and it has a ignition switch bypass. it is now push button. reason for wanting to reomve it is because i think who ever wired it some how bypassed my cold starty injector. i have switched out the temp sensors and even the CS injector itself. 4runner is very hard to start when its cold outside. it runs ok once i get it started but for the most part i kill the battery and have to jump start it to get going. of course i wonder why they bypassed the switch?? it could be bad...anyhow does any one have pictures or any info that may help me put it back to stock form?. i checked FSM but i didnt see anything detailed enough. i did notice a white heavier gauge wire coming from the fuse box direct to the battery.
#2
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Be nice to know where you live Help could be just down the steet
It would be nice to know just what was done??
Must you have the ignition switch in the on position then push your button??
Do you have a Auto or manual??
Do you have a multimeter??
If your vehicle cranks at all the cold start injector should be getting power unless the neutral safety switch or clutch safety switch have been bypassed which is the case it seems.
Have you found where the harness was spliced or have all new wires been run
Is the original harness still there just disconnected but intact
Do you want to go back to factory specs or just get you Cold start injector working??
I doubt you will find pictures I have the toyota Electrical Wiring Manual much better than Ford I must say:jessica:
It would be nice to know just what was done??
Must you have the ignition switch in the on position then push your button??
Do you have a Auto or manual??
Do you have a multimeter??
If your vehicle cranks at all the cold start injector should be getting power unless the neutral safety switch or clutch safety switch have been bypassed which is the case it seems.
Have you found where the harness was spliced or have all new wires been run
Is the original harness still there just disconnected but intact
Do you want to go back to factory specs or just get you Cold start injector working??
I doubt you will find pictures I have the toyota Electrical Wiring Manual much better than Ford I must say:jessica:
Last edited by wyoming9; 03-25-2012 at 11:29 PM. Reason: Typo
#3
This truck sounds exactly like mine. The previous owner bypassed the neutral safety switch. I've been using it like this with no problem except slow starting. I didn't think the cold start switch would be affected, but is it? It would motivate me to fix it if it is.
Also, the heavy gauge wire from the fuse box to the battery is a good thing. Helps prevent electrical grimlins that can keep the truck from starting at all. So glad I did it to mine.
Also, the heavy gauge wire from the fuse box to the battery is a good thing. Helps prevent electrical grimlins that can keep the truck from starting at all. So glad I did it to mine.
#4
More info: if i push button start wth switch off it just cranks like no spark. Switch needs to be on for truck to start. Dont know what was done as far as bypass method. Im in san diego california... More like chula vista.. The clutch switch has been mod because I dont need to press clutch or button to start truck. I just want that cold start injector to start working but dont want more mods to do so... Like another switch to make it work... Figured back to stock would be best...It is a 5speed Transmission.
Yes i do have multimeter... Also i can see all the wires that were run to accomplish bypass... Hacks used good old house electrical wires.. Solid copper no ends,just wrapped around lugs. Thanks guys for replies.
Yes i do have multimeter... Also i can see all the wires that were run to accomplish bypass... Hacks used good old house electrical wires.. Solid copper no ends,just wrapped around lugs. Thanks guys for replies.
#5
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AFAIK, the cold start injector only fires while the key is in the 'start' position. If you're turning the key to 'on' and using the push button to crank it, that would explain the CSI not firing.
#6
Ok i will check when i get home. Truck has been sitting for a couple of days... So in theory i should be able to hold it in the "start" position for a few seconds and then crank... I will also try " start" as i crank.
#7
ok did both, held to the start position and heard faint buzzing, it was coming from the fuel pump i think...still had to crank several times before it started...didnt notice any change... what next????? will search the neutral safety switch bypass blacknite3 mentioned..
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#8
update: aside from playing with ignition switch and on & start positions....took a 2ft long hose and placed it over the CSI and i heard nothing. no noise from the CSI while switch in the "start" position.
#9
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:jessica: The black wire that goes to your starter relay from the ignition switch is the one that powers the CSI.
:jessica: Now since we have no idea what may or may not be missing from your harness If you replace the hacked wiring with suitable automotive wiring and also connect a wire to the coil of the starter relay it should get your CSI working.
:jessica:Your other option is to replace the whole harness with a good used one.
:jessica: It all comes down to just how much of the original harness is intact and if your skilled enough to solder and reconnect it all.
This is going to be hard to do without the wiring diagrams.
:jessica: Good Luck I wish I was close enough to help in person maybe someone is!!
:jessica: Now since we have no idea what may or may not be missing from your harness If you replace the hacked wiring with suitable automotive wiring and also connect a wire to the coil of the starter relay it should get your CSI working.
:jessica:Your other option is to replace the whole harness with a good used one.
:jessica: It all comes down to just how much of the original harness is intact and if your skilled enough to solder and reconnect it all.
This is going to be hard to do without the wiring diagrams.
:jessica: Good Luck I wish I was close enough to help in person maybe someone is!!
#10
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iTrader: (1)
This makes me think that the ignition switch or the relay stopped working at some point and the PO just straight wired it instead of fixing it. This explains the fuel pump cutting on when you turn the key to start. This explains why your CSI isn't working because the ECU isn't getting the START signal, so the engine is firing off of the pressure that is already built up. This also explains why you can hit the starter with the key out, bypassing the clutch switch.
How did the PO run the wire to the starter? Do you have pics?
The easiest way to bypass everything at once is to just go to the source and this makes me think that is what happened. A wire from the battery to the starter signal connection on the solenoid through the push button switch. If they left the original wire just hanging next to the starter, try to unhook their hack job and try it with the original signal wire in place.
Let us know what you find and good luck!
How did the PO run the wire to the starter? Do you have pics?
The easiest way to bypass everything at once is to just go to the source and this makes me think that is what happened. A wire from the battery to the starter signal connection on the solenoid through the push button switch. If they left the original wire just hanging next to the starter, try to unhook their hack job and try it with the original signal wire in place.
Let us know what you find and good luck!
#13
2 green wires, one going to battery and you can see the second green wire going down to the starter. looks like the spliced it in to the started at the plug by the selenoid
pulled the steering colum bezel to check out the wiring for ignition switch. looks like there is alarm wiring and splices....looks like a mess !
pulled the steering colum bezel to check out the wiring for ignition switch. looks like there is alarm wiring and splices....looks like a mess !
Last edited by Egar; 03-29-2012 at 04:10 PM.
#15
so before i start taking stuff apart i was looking @ the starter and cant seem to find the wire that normally plugs into the seleniod, i thought maybe that it was cut and it would be hanging. looks like it been completely removed??? can one of you tell me where that wires comes from?? where it originates??
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