Regular guy with regular tools gear swap (Lots of pics)
03-06-2016, 02:53 PM
#41
One question I have.....why doe everyone hate crush sleeves so much? I am on another forum and everyone on there is very much against them and they are telling me to chuck the crush and get a spacer... ZUK, you have been doing this for a long time, what do you use? My thoughts are if you use a spacer you will likely have to disassemble the diff several times to get the pinion drag just right.... also If toyota uses them from the factory and these trucks regularly go 1-2-3 hundred thousand miles they must not be all bad.
03-06-2016, 07:59 PM
#44
I got a little time to work on the diff tonight.... I spent about an hour making some stuff that made my life much easier! I made a jig to hold the flange while I crushed my sleeve. 
It wasnt nearly as bad as I thought. Once the bearing pressed on I felt it get really hard and then i could feel it give once the sleeve started to crush then it turned hard but smooth. It took forever but once all the slop was out of the bearings I would tighten the nut about a 1/16th of a turn then I would check the Pinion preload then I would put it back in the jig and go some more. I did that about 15 times until I got it right. I really wanted to make sure I didn't go too far and have to get a new sleeve. It wasn't bad at all. Then I popped the carrier in and started setting the back lash. I am a little unclear on how to set the preload on the carrier bearings without changing the BL. I set my BL to .008 then I snugged up the adjuster wheels until they were tight.....then my instructions say to turn the wheels 2-2.5 holes then torque the bearing caps to 58lbs. Does that sound right?
Flange holding jig!
Adjuster wheel tool so I can use my torque wrench.
Nut "dinged" and red lock-tite.
It wasnt nearly as bad as I thought. Once the bearing pressed on I felt it get really hard and then i could feel it give once the sleeve started to crush then it turned hard but smooth. It took forever but once all the slop was out of the bearings I would tighten the nut about a 1/16th of a turn then I would check the Pinion preload then I would put it back in the jig and go some more. I did that about 15 times until I got it right. I really wanted to make sure I didn't go too far and have to get a new sleeve. It wasn't bad at all. Then I popped the carrier in and started setting the back lash. I am a little unclear on how to set the preload on the carrier bearings without changing the BL. I set my BL to .008 then I snugged up the adjuster wheels until they were tight.....then my instructions say to turn the wheels 2-2.5 holes then torque the bearing caps to 58lbs. Does that sound right? Flange holding jig!
Adjuster wheel tool so I can use my torque wrench.
Nut "dinged" and red lock-tite.
Last edited by millennium falcon; 03-06-2016 at 08:01 PM.
03-07-2016, 08:47 AM
#46
Well.....its all back together. I topped off the oil and went for a little drive. No weird noises. The case was a pretty warm to the touch but I hear that's normal. I will give some more updates on the performer once I get it out on the open road. Thanks again for all the help.....and don't go anywhere because I'm sure I will need some help with the front.
03-07-2016, 12:09 PM
#47
Just go easy on the break-in of new gears and all will be good.
If you still have the IFS in front then it could get interesting because you might need some new thicker/thinner washer plates (they set the BL and bearing preloads)
Ken
here's the 4 cyl part numbers just for reference
Front 7.5" IFS carrier bearing shim (washer plate) part numbers
mm inches 4 cyl PN V6 cyl PN
2.58 .1016 90201-65007 90201-50003
2.61 .1028 90201-65008 90201-50004
2.64 .1039 90201-65009 90201-50005
2.67 .1051 90201-65010 90201-50006
2.70 .1063 90201-65011 90201-50007
2.73 .1075 90201-65012 90201-50008
2.76 .1087 90201-65013 90201-50009
2.79 .1098 90201-65014 90201-50010
2.82 .1110 90201-65015 90201-50011
2.85 .1122 90201-65016 90201-50012
2.88 .1134 90201-65017 90201-50013
2.91 .1145 90201-65018 90201-50014
2.94 .1157 90201-65019 90201-50015
2.97 .1169 90201-65020 90201-50016
3.00 .1181 90201-65021 90201-50017
3.03 .1193 90201-65022 90201-50018
3.06 .1204 90201-65023 90201-50019
3.09 .1216 90201-65024 90201-50020
3.12 .1228 90201-65025 90201-50021
3.15 .1240 90201-65026 90201-50022
3.18 .1252 90201-65027 90201-50023
3.21 .1264 90201-65028 90201-50024
3.24 .1276 90201-65029 90201-50025
If you still have the IFS in front then it could get interesting because you might need some new thicker/thinner washer plates (they set the BL and bearing preloads)
Ken
here's the 4 cyl part numbers just for reference
Front 7.5" IFS carrier bearing shim (washer plate) part numbers
mm inches 4 cyl PN V6 cyl PN
2.58 .1016 90201-65007 90201-50003
2.61 .1028 90201-65008 90201-50004
2.64 .1039 90201-65009 90201-50005
2.67 .1051 90201-65010 90201-50006
2.70 .1063 90201-65011 90201-50007
2.73 .1075 90201-65012 90201-50008
2.76 .1087 90201-65013 90201-50009
2.79 .1098 90201-65014 90201-50010
2.82 .1110 90201-65015 90201-50011
2.85 .1122 90201-65016 90201-50012
2.88 .1134 90201-65017 90201-50013
2.91 .1145 90201-65018 90201-50014
2.94 .1157 90201-65019 90201-50015
2.97 .1169 90201-65020 90201-50016
3.00 .1181 90201-65021 90201-50017
3.03 .1193 90201-65022 90201-50018
3.06 .1204 90201-65023 90201-50019
3.09 .1216 90201-65024 90201-50020
3.12 .1228 90201-65025 90201-50021
3.15 .1240 90201-65026 90201-50022
3.18 .1252 90201-65027 90201-50023
3.21 .1264 90201-65028 90201-50024
3.24 .1276 90201-65029 90201-50025
03-07-2016, 03:19 PM
#50
Thanks guys! and a big thanks to ZUK indeed! I took the truck on my normal commute today. It makes a big difference. 5th gear is more usable than ever. It still is a 30 year old truck with 82hp, but it is enjoyable to drive now. With 33's and the 4.88s the speedometer is very close to being accurate now. indicated 55mph, GPS confirmed 53 mph. 5th gear at 65mph looks to be around 2850rpm.....or so. My tach numbers are very hard to read.
03-07-2016, 03:29 PM
#51
Yes I will be doing an ifs 7.5" unless I stumble upon a solid front in before I buy gears. Are they more difficult than the 8"?
I almost forgot to total everything up for the rear..... this includes shipping on parts but not little things like steel I already had to makes jigs and rtv I had in my garage. I will try to do the same for the front axle.
R&P $113.00
Master install kit $94.00
Gear oil $21.00
Harbor freight "large bearing separator" $29.99
3/8-1/2 adapter for in-lb torque wrench to 30mm socket. $2.69
Borrowed puller from my friend.....priceless.
Grand total for the rear $ 260.68
I almost forgot to total everything up for the rear..... this includes shipping on parts but not little things like steel I already had to makes jigs and rtv I had in my garage. I will try to do the same for the front axle.
R&P $113.00
Master install kit $94.00
Gear oil $21.00
Harbor freight "large bearing separator" $29.99
3/8-1/2 adapter for in-lb torque wrench to 30mm socket. $2.69
Borrowed puller from my friend.....priceless.
Grand total for the rear $ 260.68
Last edited by millennium falcon; 03-07-2016 at 03:31 PM.
03-12-2016, 03:24 PM
#59
I still think you might have to order some washer plates because the thin shims(even if they are the correct dimensions) are "unfriendly" when pounding in a meaty washer plate next to a thin shim....so be prepared for some ordering time. I'll help in the final target thicknesses to order.
