Nix_Toy

Ok, first off, is the possible? It's an engine that ran dry, no oil, until it quick. The crank does not turn manually at all. I've always thought that a seized engine was toast, but someone was telling me that all I need is a rebuilt crank. Now, is this true? If so, what else would be required to make my 22RE run? Thanks for any info, I'm just fishing for the cheapest way to get my baby running again!

-Nick

Yota4runner

Well chances are if it was run dry enough to sieze it up that your going to get it apart and quickly realize your going to need alot more then a crank.

I would say that you may need new pistons, rings and what not. The unfortunet part of running the engine dry is that there is NO lube in there, bearings are likely toast, depending how long it ran without oil you could be looking at ALOT of very serious damage. You may be better off getting a rebuilt/new engine. But thats just my .02

Perhaps someone else may chime in with a few more options for you. Good luck.

surf4runner

take it apart. at least you will be able to determine exactly what is destroyed. and maybe learn a little about the internals. most of the bearing surfaces will be fried as well as the cylinders. honing or boring may allow for a rebuild. for cheape$t, id look into a long block.
why did it run dry?

Nix_Toy

Well, it ran dry because my valve cover came loose while driving on the freeway letting out all of the oil. I guess I can start taking it apart, since I really dont' know much about the internals of an engine... but how can I tell when things are not good? Will it be visually obvious?

Toysrme

For a very short answer:
Anything oily = good
"Golden" Varnish on stuff that doesn't move = good (Oil stays on it, but doesn't stay long enough to gunk-up, or turn to sludge)
Dirty = bad
Metal bits = very bad
When looking where anything that rotates comes into contact with something (Bearings / bearing caps / surfaces of that nature). Scratches, odd scoring, or missing hunks show death wear, or severe wear that is on the fast track to failure.
Don't confuse tiny marks going the natural direction as bad stuff as they are simply wear. It'll be obvious to you when you take the first good bearing off, then take a bad one off.
Good

Bad (see bad scratches & the missing chunk. Missing chunks are duh!)

Bad (see how the crankshaft is smacking the bearing lop-sided)

superjoe83

if it ran long enough to seize up then your cam journals in the head are probably screwed which means you need a new head, cam, and possibly rocker arms and shafts, i would pull the engine and see how bad it really is

kyle_22r

odds are there isn't much left to salvage, unless the bearings haven't spun in the block, and the cam journals haven't galled from lack of oil. even if that's true, you're still going to need to have the crank machined(if it's salvageable), new rods, pistons, rings, bearings etc.

WVpizzaguy

You should buy a new remanufactured engine.... the cost you are going to incur to do the rebuild properly will set you back about as much anyhow and you know it will be correct.... I purchased an engine from Oregon engine rebuilders from eBay that had a lifetime warranty "in writing”... I was a little skeptical of a warranty like this and I told the man I was going to beat and abuse this engine and he still said so long as I had oil and water in it he will honor the warranty ... at any rate I don’t fully expect the warranty to be honored ... by the time I break this thing I will have gotten my 1400 bucks (that price includes shipping) outta it... it came with an rv cam for an additional 35 bucks and runs great. I would highly recommend this for anyone looking... BTW you have more cost in your rebuild than just parts and time invested ... by the time you have everything machined at a reputable machinist your going to have a ton of money in the engine and still have a novice rebuilder doing the work.

44Runner

salvagable in that you can salvage a few parts off it maybe, but realistically if you want a good reliable engine you should look at a new long block.

Yes you can bore the cylinders, get new pistons/rings, machine crank, use oversized bearings blah blah blah. But i won't be worth it. Your head is likely trash. The cam does't have bearings so damage here would be more costly. While it could be fixed, again, you are looking at big money versus just getting a new head. The rockers might be F'd along with the cam.

So to answer the big question, yes, you most certainly can save a seized engine but it likely won't be worth your time and money.

I would take it apart and check it out just to be sure

Check all contact points and I would check your head to make sure it didn't warp too. Post pics and I'm sure I and others can tell you how its looking...

kyle_22r

i'd just find a good core and rebuild it. even with a good cam and a brand new head, you can do it for under $1000.

44Runner

probably the best piece of advice. I don't think a lot of people realize this but if you have the tools and know how, rebuilding a 22RE is a sub $500 undertaking. They are also a dime a dozen. Find a cheap one, rebuild it and have yourself a brand new engine.

WVpizzaguy

The machine work alone to rebuild any engine correctly cost 500... do it for any less than that and get ready to do it again. Block, crank, and head all have to be machined and trued. Thats not counting new oil pump, gaskets, bearings, rings, ... ect. Then you need to look at the fact that your doing it and it will carry no warranty what-so-ever.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/22R-2...12431163QQrdZ1

Look at what you get. I run this engine hard and abuse it ... I'm a pizza guy... this is good money spent imho. Do the cost breakdown to do the engine correctly and you will see that there is not alot of difference in price.

kyle_22r

my machine work(clean, bore/hone, deck the block due to corrosion, replace valve stem seals, rebush the rods) AND master engine kit with everything needed only put me back a little over $500...

have you ever actually built an engine before?

44Runner

http://www.engnbldr.com/ToyotaHotLicks.htm

214 bucks for EVERYTHING needed to completely rebuild the engine. Machine work on a 4 cylinder engine should not put you over the 500 mark unless the engine is totally f'd to begin with and you will remember that kyle and I said to find a GOOD core.

You are either talking out your butt or need to find a new machine shop.

I run my stuff hard, although I wouldn't say I abuse it. That is precisely why I would rather build it myself and know that it was done right. I could rebuild it twice for what they are charging anyways...

WVpizzaguy

I just called my machine shop.... IF the main bearing journals are fine and dont need machined block will cost $200 .... Crank can be reworked for $90. I didnt even check on the head since It was stated earlier that heads are not too expensive... now figure in:

Machine work
gaskets
New oil pump
Head
Bearings
Rings

Where are you at as far as your money goes??

Now figure in the fact that this guy has probably never rebuilt an engine and ask yourself if its worth the extra 100 bucks for a remanufactored engine with a warranty. I'm not saying that it cant be done for less.... I'm talking about the most bang for the buck and for a 22r I wouldnt waste my time rebuilding it unless it where going to cost me alot of cash for alot of extras... In which case I would probably go to LC engineering.

DudeBud

it was posted earler that rebuild kits are $214 and this kit comes with an oil pump. also where can you get a reman 22r for cheaper than rebulding one that you have?

WVpizzaguy

I won't be arguing this post anymore... you cant have a battle of wits with an unarmed man. I imagine that those of you doing rebuilds for $500 ...do alot of them .... over and over.

DudeBud

hmm yeah i dont see anything wrong with doing a rebuild for cheap. I guess it help when your friend owns a mechine shop

44Runner

oh my.

rebuild kit comes with everything you need for 214 bucks. as said I did post the link to it.

you get pistons, rings, gaskets, oil pump, bearings. EVERYTHING. only things I purchased on top of the kit when I rebuilt my engine was a new water pump (not needed but went ahead and did it) and a thermostat (if you don't replace the thermostat during a rebuild you are probably retarded. And a thermostat is what? 5 bucks?

First off, you assume that the crank needs to be reworked. *This is actually not the case for all rebuilds.* BUT we will go ahead and assume the crank is messed and will use your expensive ass shop rate since I did not get the crank done, I have nothing to compare it to.

Now I know for the shop I use to simply knock out a 4 cylinder engine is right around 170 bucks. Add 90 bucks for your crank if it is screwed. then 214 for the rebuild kit and we will even add 16 bucks to get this kit shipped to your door. go ahead and add 5 bucks for our t-stat. For those non math inclined folks, our grand total is $495. In other words, UNDER $500 even with redoing the crank. Of course if the crank is done remember to tell them what size bearings you will need in the rebuild kit.

kyle_22r

even cheaper for me. my machine shop charged me $25 for the cleaning, $65 to punch it .040 over(had a deep scratch in #1), $50 to deck the block from surface corrosion, $18 to rebush and hone the rods, and another $20 to put in new valve seals.

unfortunately my head was junk, but the bottom end has never given me a problem in the year it's been running...