xxxtreme22r

Well almost 600 miles on the rebuild and I am gonna be doing a compression/vacuum/poor mans leakdown check. Factory says between 142 and 171 and less than 14psi difference between cyls for the 22R. However, I am 20 over with the block (not head) milled 10 (Pretty darn close to 0 quench) and no adjustable cam sprocket. I am pretty sure it should be the same tolerances in compression right?

How much oil should I use for the leakdown check?

As far as vacuum goes, the manual says nothing on specs. Ive got the 268 cam, new stock style head and a 32/36 weber. What are you guys at as far as idle/high rpm vacuum levels? What base timing you running? Did you set you timing for highest engine vacuum?

Thanks in advance.

xxxtreme22r

haha update on this, didn't wind up doing the compression check as I am lazy and don't deal well with cold whether. so here it is almost 8 months later and I have about 6500 miles on the rebuild.

I have about 6500 miles on the rebuild. And just did a compression check.

I will try to get more info regarding what they used for boring/finish honing from the machine shop I used.

I used the pistons/rings that came with the ENGNBLDR kit. Which I assume is the rock products rings? I am still not clear as to what these are made out of though.

I am 20 over bore, with the block (not head) milled 10 (Pretty darn close to 0 quench).

When I put this together I used 3-in-1 SAE 20 oil that is available in the little bottles from Lowes. And alot of it, not only on the cyl walls, but also coated the pistons and ring compressor with it.



After the initial cam break in (2500-3000RPM varying) I drove it hard with 3/4 throttle not going over 3,500 RPM and allowing the motor to back itself off by letting go of the throttle. I did this several times (maybe 8-10 times.) Then drove like normal for the rest of the time. I do however have a pretty good hill climb to work every day as well. Which I have heard helps seat pistons when the engine has a load with minimal throttle.

I changed the oil after the first initial 30 minute brake in, then again at 200,500,1500 and 3,000 miles, then 6,000 miles. Using Valvoline 10W30 the entire time except the last one when I went with the 15W40 Valvoline Diesel Oil.




here are the compression results using an Actron Compression gauge borrowed from 92 Toy:

#1 173 psi

#2 170 psi

#3 170 psi

#4 173 psi

Pretty darn good (almost perfect even) I would assume for a rebuild to 20 over and a milled block. Looks like I got my quench just right as I think the numbers would be higher or lower across the board. Maybe someone can chime in if I am thinking incorrectly.

Cannot tell if I am burning oil at all because of a pretty good oil pan leak. But with a brand new "stock" proline head from ENGNBLDR and compression like that I highly highly doubt it.

Still curious as to what I should be seeing for a vacuum level though on this carbed motor at idle.

I have put new plugs in maybe 600-700 miles ago and it looks like #1 and #3 are running a little leaner than the other 2. As evidence by the white(ish) color. Not sure what is going on there as the other two look perfect.


BTW I got 150 on #1 when I first started and I remember someone saying something about having to do the compression with the cyls "wet" ie pump the gas pedel to get some fuel in there. That's when the comp went to 170.