THEMAN

My rear window hasn’t worked since I bought my 1987 4runner. The window motor works fine as the window works great with the key so that eliminates the motor option. So after reading several post about the wiper sensor, the top sensor the relay, the switch, the motor ect… I decided to attempt to fix it. As 4crawler states in his article the top sensor bolt was indeed the wrong bolt. I switched it and actually bypassed it by jumping the wires. I moved to the relay, after trying 3 different relays all of which looked in excellent condition the window still would not work . The relay would not even click. I moved my attention to the switch. In an attempt to figure out if it was getting power with a test light I ended up making the window go up and down. The relay was clicking and the window was working with me jumping the bottom of the switch. After switching and trying all 3 relays I found that all three worked fine. I even disconnected the top sensor altogether and by jumping at the switch it somehow bypassed it because the window not only went up and down with the switch disconnected it also went up and down with the tailgate down. So what’s the problem you ask? Well I am still having to jump the switch at the bottom to make it work, well sort of. The switch works if I ground out the center pin. If you look at the picture the pin marked ground(GRD) If I ground this then the switch works as it should up makes the window rise and down makes the window go down. What I don’t understand is that when I do this it completely bypasses all the security measures. As in the tail gate being open and the sensor completely disconnected and the window still works. I know this sounds great and I would be fine with this set up however I’m afraid that I may screw something up by grounding that center pin permanently. I would just like to have this wired correctly. Any help would be great! Thanks.

justin_4runner

that ground wire might be the way Toyota did it, from the switch then to the contact points in the back(wiper and gate closed sensor) then to ground. by going strait to the ground u are bypassing them and making it work, sounds to me u have a bad ground wire for that circuit. might be able find where it grounds and check it, other wise ground out that spot by the switch and call it good. if it was going to cause an issue i would of thought it would of when u first did it, or did u not test other items when u had it grounded, like lights horn, turn signals those things.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I copied from my 86 build and have some listed on my 88 build on the first post on where to find it. I run a ground wire from the blue up to the mounting tab that holds the center console cover up front. The only place I can get a good ground at. This solves alot of headaches with theback hatch. The window will still go up with the top off but I just keep that in mind and backglass problem is solved.

Copied from one of my builds.-----------------------------
Still need to get the hatch back together, but window works. Run a ground wire from the top left corner looking at tab. It is a blue wire.


I have tried several different grounds in the past on both trucks and the only good ground that I can get is the front mountng tab to the center console. This is a temporary fix. I still have the glass out and things all apart, but it is getting there.
This will go up and down with top off so and down the highway. I have never had a problem with the safty bypassed. Solves alot of headaches.

Ground to center consloe mounting tab.

jswizz

THEMAN :
Yeah I put in a dif toggle that fits perf ther for back window and wired it using the same o'l wires and it does the same .Also I had done the Relay window solder trick so not to have to use the key and if the tailgate is down , it will go out or up all the way out . It doesn't fall out thank god BUT I JUST HAVE TO BE AWARE OF THAT TOGGLE !!

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

In my 88 when I first got it, the window worked with the switch. Then it stopped working and I got another switch from the bone yard. Didn't work. I took off the switch and ran a wire from where Terry had it soldered. I then grounded out the female plug and ran the window that way. Yea it would have been nicer with using a switch instead of having to stick the wire in the end of the plug, but my point is I did it for a long time and it never screwed anything up. I'm sure there's more guys on here that have done something similar with no problems. Good luck dude.

THEMAN

Yes everything still works fine. Thats kind of what I was thinking too. if nothing went poof initially then all should be fine.



Thanks. Thats what I was thinking about doing grounding that wire. I was just afraid hat it might have cause something else to go haywire. My other concern was due to if everyone is always having problems with the rear window system and this is such an easy fix that solves all the problems I have been reading about. Then why have I not come across a thread about how easy it is to simply ground the center/blue wire and the rear window will work regardless of any security measures. I figured probably because it causes other issues, but apparently not. I will ground the wire tomorrow after work and run it for a few days and see if all is ok then post my findings. Hopefully this will be ok which I thing it will as terry doesn't seem to have had any issues. I might also do the solder trick so that the switch works even without the key. Thanks for the input.