85toyman

iTrader: (2)

I installed BJ spacers and the diff drop kit on my 4runner. I could not fit the downey rear cross member anymore, so I built this unit that allows the drive shaft to clear and allows the diff to be droped 3/4" from the stock location. I have designed a front cross member to lower the front of the diff about 3/4" as well. This should put the diff back to a stock setting for pinion angle and relax the cv angle's. I have designed a 3/16" thick skid plate to run from the back cross member up to the tow hooks to protect the truck as well.

This is the first step. I still need to power coat it.

Ezrider_92356

nice work, looks good

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

Thanks

91diesel

So does that maintain the same 'bottom' line of the frame? or between this and the front crossmember/skidplate are you looking at dropping the clearance? I'm curious cause I've got the same setup minus the front part of the drop and wanted to truss and skid plate with my diff drop.

rattlewagon

Looks wicked clean. Nicely done!

RBX

'scribed

shaeff

Nice fabrication. Those welds look good!

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

The front truss will maintain it's stock lines with the sub frame just like the OE unit currently does. I will mill about 1/8th" off the 1" rear drop kit. Doing this will allow the rear truss to sit flat with the frame as well.

I will build a cross member for the front that puts the mount for the front diff 7/8" lower into the cross member, rather then sitting on top of it as the factory unit sits. Putting the front diff into the cross member this amount will put the diff back to factory settings and pinion angles. This will give the cv's some breathing room now and not have them maxed out but still retain lift.

I will have to play around with exact measurements so the diff stays up to the bottom of the cross member. I plan on running a full skid plate from the rear cross member upto the custom front winch receiver I made in 3/16" steel, possibly stainless.

Completeing this does a couple of things for me.

1. Protects my radiator
2. Protects the front diff/oil pan and other front end componets that can be damaged from off roading.
3. The biggest reason. Dropping the diff about a full inch means that I can build custom mounts for the 3.4 I want to install and do so without a body lift.

I am very busy but will get the front cross member built as soon as possible and skid plate to follow. I will post pictures as the process takes shape. Once I am done if anybody wants a set up built for themselves let me know. Your also welcome to follow my build up in the build up sections. I have started a build up their.

Front receiver for winch, skid will tie into bottom of this.

malteserunner

iTrader: (1)

Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Very nice work so far.

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

Got it mocked up and using 2" diamater flat washers with 1/2" hole for mocking up the amount of drop I can get from the diff.

I am at 1/2" of drop out of the diff. That is not as much as I would like. Only having the 1/2" drop did keep the bottom of the diff above the front and rear truss however.

That was a plus as the 1" drop kit put the diff below the truss. I may play around with lowering the tube opening on the cross bar but leaving the bar level with the bottom

of the A arms. This would allow me to move the diff lower.

I will take some more measurements and see where we are at. I want to keep the diff above the bottom of the truss so it is protected. Next up is the front cross bar, and

then the skid plate.

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

This project is still on just on hold. I popped my headgaskets and am now replacing the engine. 1uz here I come.

tlrskunk

On your front receiver have you thought about maybe mounting it on top of the frame in the front instead of underneath? Then cut a hole in the Valance to fit it in. I would go as far as to mount a Vanity Plate to a 2" slide in to cover the hole when not in use. This would prevent the Hitch from killing your approach angle...

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

Had not really thought about doing that. Thanks for the input, I will look at that idea and see how feasable it is. Might have to incorperate that into the design.

tlrskunk

What did you get the receiver off of to begin with? I may do this for the front of mine. My Lower Valance is already cracked so what's wrong with making more holes

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

I cut down a rear hitch off of one of the 4runners I am parting out. I then tig welded the side brackets on it and drilled them out to fit the holes that the OE tow hooks fit.

tlrskunk

Could you simply remove your bumper then flip it over? I'm not looking at the front of my truck currently...

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

no, as the factory sub frame cross support for the core is tied into the upper part of the frame. I would have to but it down, fit it between the frame and then bolt it thru the bottom again but it would only be hanging down by the 1/4" plate and the rest would hidden behind the valance.

If that makes sense.

tlrskunk

I was thinking that but wasn't 100% positive.
And yes that makes perfect sense. I just hate the Idea of loosing the Approach angle on my truck due to a receiver. you Defiantly have the welding ability to make it happen.

Now throw a diff perspective at you...
Cut the cross part with the wholes out mount the hitch with the bolts the re-weld the frame to the receiver and use the receiver as the cross brace.

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

While I was not worried about approach and depature angles so much as I do mostly trail riding and some muddin. I would like to do the Rubicon and that is when having this thing tucked up would make a big difference. My current design was to have it act as a support should I come into contact with the front end and protect the front end should that happen.

I will toy with the idea you have about cutting the center cross out and welding this in its place. I think that shouldn't be too hard to accomplish.

Once I get this engine thing done. I will resume work on the cross bar and brace.

Stay tuned.....