Rear diff, headers, blower and step-bars.
10-22-2009, 07:38 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rear diff, headers, blower and step-bars.
Hi guys,
I am looking to do a few upgrades on my '94 4x4 pickup (V6, 5spd).
# 1 I want to get the rear diff upgraded to a TorSen unit. I called Randy's Ring and Pinion and the service desk told me about $700 for parts and labor. Does this sound right? It cost $550 a few years ago for my F150 and that is a bigger diff...
#2 I am looking to upgrade the intake and exhaust on the truck (as both look to be hella restrictive). I heard that the head gasket failures on my 3.0L V6 are likely caused by poor header design. Gasket failures aside, it does not take a scientist to see that the stock header is not designed with performance in mind. What's a good way to go with an aftermarket header (preferably equal-length piping for each cylinder).
#3 The intake path also leaves much to be desired - I am looking to simplify the sytem with straighter piping, but I also thought about kicking on a little electrical blower - noting major, only 2-3PSI at WOT. Has this been done on these rigs before? Can the stock ECU and injectors handle the additional flow?
#4 I am looking for step-bars to put on the sides of the truck to serve a dual purpose, both as a step, but also to protect the body when climbing rock and as a convinient jack point (so they have to be sturdy). Any suggestions on affordable factory-made units, or should I just make/weld some myself?
I am looking to do a few upgrades on my '94 4x4 pickup (V6, 5spd).
# 1 I want to get the rear diff upgraded to a TorSen unit. I called Randy's Ring and Pinion and the service desk told me about $700 for parts and labor. Does this sound right? It cost $550 a few years ago for my F150 and that is a bigger diff...
#2 I am looking to upgrade the intake and exhaust on the truck (as both look to be hella restrictive). I heard that the head gasket failures on my 3.0L V6 are likely caused by poor header design. Gasket failures aside, it does not take a scientist to see that the stock header is not designed with performance in mind. What's a good way to go with an aftermarket header (preferably equal-length piping for each cylinder).
#3 The intake path also leaves much to be desired - I am looking to simplify the sytem with straighter piping, but I also thought about kicking on a little electrical blower - noting major, only 2-3PSI at WOT. Has this been done on these rigs before? Can the stock ECU and injectors handle the additional flow?
#4 I am looking for step-bars to put on the sides of the truck to serve a dual purpose, both as a step, but also to protect the body when climbing rock and as a convinient jack point (so they have to be sturdy). Any suggestions on affordable factory-made units, or should I just make/weld some myself?
10-22-2009, 08:32 PM
#2
Contributing Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
5 Posts
1. So you want a limited slip rear end? Try a detrioit soft locker...
I run a cheap lockright rachet/autolocker.
2. the crossover design is indeed pretty bad, how the exhaust wraps around the back of the drivers head and dumps backwards into the drivers manifold.
Best kit I can recomend is the LCE street header kit. Its pretty pricey but you get what you pay for. Most people will recomend this kit over any others...
3. Id do a "ISR" mod. Then you could possibly throw a larger AFM on there (search for the year/model afm that works) Don't bother with those electric blowers... not worth it.
4. Search Sliders
Available at lots of places like trailgear.com marlincrawler.com etc...
I run a cheap lockright rachet/autolocker.
2. the crossover design is indeed pretty bad, how the exhaust wraps around the back of the drivers head and dumps backwards into the drivers manifold.
Best kit I can recomend is the LCE street header kit. Its pretty pricey but you get what you pay for. Most people will recomend this kit over any others...
3. Id do a "ISR" mod. Then you could possibly throw a larger AFM on there (search for the year/model afm that works) Don't bother with those electric blowers... not worth it.
4. Search Sliders
Available at lots of places like trailgear.com marlincrawler.com etc...
10-23-2009, 08:04 AM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ya that was a good laugh... The guy obviously didnt know what he was doing. Number of major flaws in his design. However, I have seen the idea used well before.
a. You need a flap that will let the engine take unrestricted air when the 'blower' is not on. Sucking through the blower is very restrictive.
b. The switch should be on a WOT sensor or an under-pedal veriety.
c. The puny fan he had mounted is a joke - what I have seen people do is use leaf blowers. By my math at redline, the engine will suck just under 700CFM. There are blowers out there that will push 1200+
d. Some form of boost controll needs to be installed as at lower RPMs the boost may be too much. This can be done via a pressure-activated exit for excess air (I bet a Blow-off-valve can be set up for the purpose).
In any case, I was just tossing the idea out there... The engine on my Toyota is so surprizingly gutless, that sometimes I get crazy thoughts in my head... I have owned many cars with 2.8-3.1L 6-cylinders - my truck is BY FAR the most sluggish...
a. You need a flap that will let the engine take unrestricted air when the 'blower' is not on. Sucking through the blower is very restrictive.
b. The switch should be on a WOT sensor or an under-pedal veriety.
c. The puny fan he had mounted is a joke - what I have seen people do is use leaf blowers. By my math at redline, the engine will suck just under 700CFM. There are blowers out there that will push 1200+
d. Some form of boost controll needs to be installed as at lower RPMs the boost may be too much. This can be done via a pressure-activated exit for excess air (I bet a Blow-off-valve can be set up for the purpose).
In any case, I was just tossing the idea out there... The engine on my Toyota is so surprizingly gutless, that sometimes I get crazy thoughts in my head... I have owned many cars with 2.8-3.1L 6-cylinders - my truck is BY FAR the most sluggish...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FS[PacSouthWest]: 2- 8"3rd members:4.88 ratchet lockers,new setup kit, rear axle rebuild kit,diff armor
jerusry
Axles - Suspensions - Tires - Wheels
1
10-19-2015 05:28 PM
FS[GreatLakes]: Wanted: 4.88 front diff, rear 8'' 4.88
jaretstuff
Axles - Suspensions - Tires - Wheels
1
08-04-2015 02:08 PM
scottyg486
Offroad Tech
3
07-19-2015 05:34 PM
