peapicker

Doing an sas on my 1990 4runner, going with the 3 inch kit. Would like to keep the original setup in the rear and need to know where can I get the drop brackets and springs to pick the rear end up at least 4 inches. Lookn at Old Man Emu springs, sad to say I do not know wich set to buy.

Tubbyfatty

4crawler for the panhard drop bracket, you can make the lspv braket for like a few $.

I believe the ome springs only lift up to 2.5'', go hunt down some land cruiser springs, they lift a little more then 3.

peapicker

Was hopeing to find a set to get 4 inches out of. Thanks dude, after looking at the lspv it does look pretty simple to fab something up. I think the oem panhard bar can be turned into an adjustable if I can find some bungs to weld into it. Is it possible to use lc springs and a spacer, or should I just suck it up and put leafs back there to?

NYChopshop

may I advise you swap leafs back there... go to wabfab or whomever is your favorite trail-gear dealer at the moment, and look at the 4" classic leaf spring lift. It's all you need to match your front 3" SAS, and it allows you to remove the rear sway bar offroad and IMPROVE your flex and performance verses harming it. Also consider the trail-gear rock assault housing. It's strong, light, and has absolutely no spring perches etc. welded to it yet, which means if you do it in a shop, cleaning and prepping your coil-spring equipped rear axle in order to weld on the leaf spring mounts and so on would almost be as much money in labor as the new rock assault housing costs. You have 2 choices in housings for an e-locker conversion or even to just swap in the 3rd member and axles etc. you have already for a quick and cheap install. If you take off the sway bar from the rear of a coil sprung 4runner, the body tends to shift laterally downhill and moves the center of gravity in a baaad way. If you take it off of a leaf sprung axle, you get something more resembling articulation. Oh, and watch out for axle wrap.

peapicker

Thanks nychopshop, guess I just needed to hear it for the motivation! Just cant get away with being a cheapskate! Never thought about the rack assult housing, would save alot of time and effort! how good are the directions with that rear kit? does it give measurments for the placement of the hangers or do ya have ta play with it?

tc

Yeah, having done it, 4" with the stock link setup is bad juju. I'm not convinced a leaf swap is the right thing, I would lean to building longer links using the stock bracketry if time/cost is a serious concern. Doing a full custom 4 link with new bracketry isn't much more work than the leaf swap.

As for springs, you need lift springs for an 80-series.

peapicker

I will check into ajustable links, If I can find em. Wont do the sas till late summer, have to get the thing painted first. So I do have some time to fiqure it out.

DOES ANYONE ELSE HAVE AN OPINION ON THIS? WOULD BE GREATLY APPRIECIATED!

tc

You don't necessarily need adjustable links, you could just sleeve/lengthen the stock ones.

NOTE: If I had mine to do over again, I would have gone to a CV driveshaft and pointed the diff at the tcase to keep the 3rd member out of the rocks a little better.

peapicker

The ones ive seen without a high pinion third do hang low! to rotate the axle would ya have to cut the ends off and re-weld? If so I would have to locate someone to do that. I can handle the cutting and welding, if those things are not put back one perfectly its gonna shred tires on the road!

tc

For the rear, you don't have to worry about that.

You don't want a HP in the rear - they're ~30% weaker than a low pinion in rear applications.

peapicker

Thought you were talking about the front, but I will definataly point the rear third at the tranny! Thanks for the heads up.

whokrz

You may want to research rears up front. You can build it however you like for height, they flex great, and the springs are cheap in junk yards. You can run lots of different junk yard springs in the rear that flex well.
If you decide to go with a kit look into http://www.marlincrawler.com.
If you decide to go with a custom rear axle look into http://www.diamondaxle.com/rear_nonsteering.htm they cost a little bit more but you can have them built any way you like. You are not limited to a V6 differential and a semi floating axle.

Hope this helps

91 4Runner

If you end up going with leafs in the rear, just grab a pickup housing from a junk yard. That is what I am doing - got the housing for $20.00, and some leafs from a 4door blazer for $15.00 (they are spring under) Just add a second long leaf and an overload and you'll have all the lift you need...

peapicker

Thanks for the info guys, I really apprieciate it! When I decide wich route to go i'll start a build thread and keep ya posted on progress and problems.

Question? I see quit a few folks on here like buying from marlin crawler, been shoppin several sites and have found the same products cheaper. Am I missing something?

tc

Marlin's stuff is usually the same as Toyota factory. A lot of the other sites are selling Chinese "white box" stuff. That may or may not be a big deal to you.

904_runner

I had/have some LC coils that lift the back end 3.5-4", but are pretty soft. I also have the panhard drop bracket. I was looking to get $80 plus shipping for the springs and drop bracket.

Honestly, i put some 63" chevys out back and i liked that a lot more than the coils, but throwing longer coils is pretty simple, i would just prefer leafs though.

yotasavg

i agree with just going to leafs. far more simple and as stated, you can point that diff up farther.

hey TC, i haven't been on in a while, how'd your rear build end up?

tc

Came out pretty well - the only regret I have is not thinking about going to a CV driveshaft and getting the diff out of the rocks a bit.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...thread-153382/