carb85

G'day,

today I found out that I have to mill my cylinder head for about 2mm. Do you think there would be any problem with the combustion because the valves are 2mm lower to the cylinders then?

Unfortunately I cannot afford a reconditioned head from the shop atm. It costs about 650 AUD (=600USD) whereas shaving costs me just 300AUD.

Cheers

whokrz

600USD is way to much for a reconditioned head check out http://www.engnbldr.com/head_shop.htm
reconditioned should run 250-300
shaving should be around 100

abecedarian

Guessing you mean 22r and not r22.

Anyhow, milling the head will put the valves closer to the pistons but that is not in and of itself a problem. If everything is set up properly, you shouldn't have pistons hitting valves.

2 mm is about 0.07 inches.

peow130

guys, you gotta remember that everything in australia land is about 2x more expensive.
Even ARB bumpers run like 1400 bucks.

carb85

Thank you for your fast response. I think I will shave it...even thou it is 300 AUD

It seems that the Australian parts market is way more expensive than elsewhere. Ordering in China/Japan/USA would be very expensive because of shipping and taxes (yaeh ... we have special autoparts taxes here ... fortress Australia, here we come).

carb85

@peow130:

You are also from WA? Nice ;-) Do you know any good wrecker around in Perth? A.A.A. Austin Ave Toyota Wreckers just gave me the price of 650 AUD...or do you have an usable head around?

abecedarian

hmm... I don't think I mentioned price in my post.
I said, "If everything is set up properly, you shouldn't have pistons hitting valves."
That was in reference to milling the head.

carb85

you're alright ... I think the post replied to whokrz's.

carb85

I have uploaded a picture of my head gasket. It shows the corroded water-pipes. Do you think it is to near to the cylinders to reuse the head?

flyingbrass

I hope you mean shave the head .2 mm, which is a little under .008".

jimep

not sure of the maximum amount that can be taken off but I had a turbo'd head that had the water passeges eroded like that. I chose to get a new one. if u do get it shaved don't forget to take into account the dowel pins and make sure they have room to get seated the whole way. Also alot of aftermarket pistons are destroked to compensate for block or head milling. Sometimes aftermarket headgaskets are thicker for the same reason. if u can't get the combo u want u can do what I did and ordered a MLS head gasket with the thickness u want. I'm running a Cometic w/ ARP headstuds. some gusys use head shims but I have heard mixed opinions about that.

flyingbrass

Several issues need to be considered with decking the block or the shaving the head.

Quench is one. It's the piston position relative to the top of the block at the top of the stroke. The pistons ideally should be dead even with the block to at most .006" above.

Another is cam timing. You have a gear on the cam and another on the crank. A chain of fixed length connects them. As you shorten the distance between the gears, your cam timing retards relative to the crank. I've heard that one can get by with up to .020" difference taken off between block and head. Any more than that you'll want to compensate by using an offset or adjustable cam gear. Or, use a shim to regain the lost space, but IMO that is a bit iffy. Our head gaskets are a weak point under the best of conditions. Adding a shim into the mix strikes me as asking for problems.

jimep, how much are those MLS gaskets? Do they need any special finish on the block or head?

carb85

Thanks for your advice with the timing problem. I will post how my shaved head is working then. I will get it back tomorrow.

The most interesting thing will be the carburettor: So many rubberpipes ... very confusing. Hopefully I will them connect them in the right way ;-) We'll see...

Is there some kind of official document in the web that shows the proper connection of the 22R carb? I would like to look it up on my own but unfortunately I only got my GPRS mobile to surf the web...it is soooooo slow.

jimep

RA 50 or less I think. It's been a while since I built mine. list price on the special thickness (.066") was $185 but the shop got it for me at $130. I think the standard Cometic MLS thickeness of.040" only runs around $80 or $90 for the R/E's not even sure what the OEM thickness is but all the gaskets I had sitting around for rebuild kits or already installed were ~.065 and I did not want to go less than that because I was already running a higher compression RE head w/my turbo... And I think I heard that .020" max from the machine shop where I had my work done now that u bought it up... Also a side note to everyone- if u have a block decked don't forget to take the timing cover in and have that done at the same time

jimep

and a great opinion it is gnarls, I took ur advice before u even gave it to me. love the new engnblder head w/ os valves and it was a good price.

flyingbrass

FWIW, I also bought a new head from Engnbldr. The cost of shipping one to Australia may be prohibitive.

I haven't heard much about Chinese manufactured heads, which are probably more widely available. If the choice was between resurfacing and rebuilding an old Toyota head or using a new one of unknown quality, what would you do?