qdude79

This is right out of boiling water (over 200deg). It's a 195 tstat. Could this be my restriction? Would the pressure of the water pump while installed push it open the rest of the way??

mt_goat

The one on the left is open most of the way, the one on the right is not:

qdude79

So what's your opinion?

mt_goat

Your pic makes it hard to tell, that's why I just showed you one that was clearer. Is that a Toyota OEM t-stat?

qdude79

No. Napa (I'm told). I know that whY you see is only about 30%~40% of what I can push it open by hand.

snobdds

I would say it is stuck shut.

qdude79

Ok, went to the store and got another 192 tstat. Decided to play Bill Nye and dropped both of them in the same pot of water and watch. The new one opened twice as wide...

Waiting 'til the hot part of the day to take it out to some hills to see if it still goes over normal under load.

qdude79

Installed and tested, still overheating under load.

mt_goat

Not sure about the 22re, but the stock V6 t-stat is about 180* F. I run a 160*F myself.

qdude79

I even drilled a 5/32nds hole next to the little brass valve. I'm stumped.

crafthorse

Fan Clutch, restricted fins on radiator, bad radiator. All or any of the above. Oh maybe coolant hose colapsing, water pump not pumping. I was having a heat issue with my 22re, when the AC was on, I replaced fan clutch and it seems to have fixed it.

qdude79

E-fan, all parts mentioned are 10k miles new.

qdude79

Next step: replace "bargain" copper/brass radiator I got during rebuild with an aluminum two core. Should be here next week. I'm thinking/hoping that my overheats at higher rpm could be due to poor flow in a cheap radiator. Maybe the larger passages on the aluminum will do the trick. Resorting to taking shots in the dark, now.

mt_goat

Another thing to check for with high rpm overheating is a collapse of the lower radiator hose. Especially if you are using a cheap hose. The lower hose is at the intake to the waterpump and can get sucked shut at high rpms. Some hoses will come with a coil of wire to keep the hose from collapsing.

snobdds

Are you circulating coolant? Clamp the upper radiator hose for a little while then let it go and there should be a surge of coolant. Obviously you need to check this with the radiator cap off.

Do your "all parts mentioned" include the water pump?

qdude79

Yes, pump included.

Goat: So you're talking the lower hose "engine to pipe," or "pipe to radiator?" Both, perhaps?

Would having a friend tach it to about 4k rpms in neutral demonstrate this, if it's happening?

qdude79

Also, the local parts places (Napa, AZ, Kragen) don't show any hoses with wires in them. Got a source?

mt_goat

The one in the pic came from Pepboys.

Not sure what you mean by pipe? The lower hose is the lower hose. There is an upper hose to the radiator and a lower hose.

mt_goat

I've heard that's the way to check it.

Of course the t-stat would have to be open to check it that way.

qdude79

Maybe I'm calling it by the wrong name, then. #10 is what I think you're referring to, #12 is the one I was asking about.


Thoughts?