wrenchtech

I'm replacing the 3VZE V6 out of my '93 4x4. I've never worked with this vehicle or motor before. My main question is the most basic. I want to know if the motor will lift out over the radiator support with a regular cherry picker type lift. Also, what's the best way to get the transmission and the engine back together. I'm a little wary of trying to align the input shaft, the clutch and the pilot bearing with the engine dangling from the hoist. Maybe it's just as easy as installing a transmission with the engine is bolted down to the motor mounts, which I've done a number of times. The unknown is always a little nerve racking to me. I'm just that kind of guy. -- Matt

camo31_10.50

well matt..im pretty sure that it will come out over the core support with a cherry picker...just gotta take the hood off of course...lol

on the tranny part...i havent done any work with my V6 yet..but with my 22R 4cyl i left the tranny in the truck..and it wasn't hard to align the tranny and motor back up at all..lol took one try..haha

wrenchtech

Camo31, Thanks for the reply. I also have a '84 xtra cab. It's getting too rusty. I definitely want to have another xtra cab of that style. First though, there's my '89 4runner project and my '93 xtra cab 4x4 work truck to get sorted out. Man I love being a Toyota truck guy!

eugenedbrooksiii

I left the transmission unmolested when I pulled the motor out of my 91 3VZE to service the clutch. When putting it back in, it is important to balance the motor on the lift chain so that it duplicates the installed angle. It will then go back in without much fuss.

If you service the clutch, an alignment tool to center the disk while bolting the pressure plate down is essential, don't try to just eyeball it.

If you are not tearing it completely apart for a rebuild is a good idea to change the front and rear crankshaft oil seals, and perhaps the oil pan gasket, while you have the motor out. These seals will harden with age and it can be painful to service them with the motor in the truck.

Eugene

jimep

You'll need ~ 2 ft or more of extensions, a swivel or 2,1/2 inch drive for the bellhousing and I'd recommend a 3/8 drive to get to the inner ehxaust downpipe flange. You will also need same extensions to get the starter out and back in. It might help to unbolt the trans and drop it down just a little to help reach the top bellhousing bolts because they can be hard to reach. And hope u got alot of patience. I do but my 3.0 was REALY testing me and I'm in no way a newb at turning a wrench.

OutlawMike

Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive tilt mechanism for a cherry picker that lets you adjust the angle of the engine in the engine bay for alignment to the trans. This adjust the front back angle, not side to side. I have found that it is far easier to get the trans and motor back together with that thing.

As stated above, drop the trans crossmember and lower the back of the trans to get better access to the upper bell housing bolts with about 4 feet of extentions. I did mine from behind the transfer case with an impact gun. Easy as pie.

Patience is key.

wrenchtech

Thanks everybody for all the replies. I was already thinking about adjustable load leveler thing. Glad to hear other people think it's a good thing to have. As far as lowering the rear of the transmission to get to the upper bellhousing bolts, I've got that down. Done it many times on the 22R trucks. My 24" x 1/2" extension and impact swivel joint are ready. -- Matt