coronadrinker85

hey guys really quick is there anything besides head bolts that needs to be removed before the head can come off? I've got the exhaust unbolted, head bolts out (including the one in the puddle), took off the power steering pump and brackets. anything else? figured i should ask before pulling out the cherry picker. thanks guys, i cant wait to get her back out to get dirty!

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

don't use a cherry picker to pull a head off. Make sure to get the hidden bolt located in the front of the head. Again don't use a cherry picker to pull the head. If you do make sure you post a video of you using a cherry picker to pull a 4 cylinder head. Have you pulled the intake manifold off yet? if not do so and check, double check the using as little force as needed ease the head off.

coronadrinker85

intake manifold is still on, i was going to try leaving it on. can you think of any brackets that connect the block and the head? yeah i already got the bolt in the puddle.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Have you read the FSM?
www.ncttora.com/fsm

:wabbit2:

swampfox

You can leave the intake and exhaust manifolds on and lift the head off as a unit , that is if the head casket was not bad and you are doing preventive maintenance. It will save the cost of gaskets and time. Just try not to turn the carb upside down it will sometimes dislodge trash in the bowl. I have done them this way before with out problems. On the efi motor you can do the same just use something to hold the head up or you will need to unhook the wiring harness.

coronadrinker85

I'll take a look at that when I get home. I did read a book I have on the truck, but it doesnt talk about removing anything else.

coronadrinker85

The head gasket is the reason i'm pulling the haed off, why would I need to remove thw manifolds?

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

because you need to send the head to a machine shop to get checked, resurfaced if needed, and any thing else that might have been screwed up when the head gasket went. So to do the job properly, remove the intake and exhaust manifolds, remove the cam and rocker assembly remove the head then take the head to the machine shop. When returned from the machine shop and all is well re-assemble and the head gasket should be good for many miles. Why did the head gasket go in the first place? Might wanna figure that out as well unless you enjoy doing this job.

coronadrinker85

Ok yeah I guess t hadnt thought that far ahead. I think it blew because I didnt down shift going up hil, I have 33's and a 4.10 do you think that would have dont it?

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

nope probably not. Look at your cooling system and make sure every thing is up to snuff. Check the fan clutch, radiator, t-stat, temp sending unit, gauge, How do you know the head gasket went? Do you have coolant mixing with oil? loosing coolant through the exhaust? Loss of power? What did you do to make sure the head gasket is in fact the problem?

mgood

After you pull the head and the rocker arms try turning the cam by hand should be tight but can be done. If it turns 360 degrees with the same amount of force then you probably are ok if not then your head might be whorped I would also check with a straight edge and a feeler gushed to make sure you are in specs

coronadrinker85

LOTS of white smoke, and a half empty radiator. I didnt do a compression check because I thought HG was a dead give away. Was I wrong? im getting sick of seeing her parked with a bed full of parts

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

Alright i'm gonna spoon feed ya some info. Your loss of coolant could very well be the head gasket but in many cases with the 22re it's not. Pull the valve cover and look at the driver's side timing chain and guide. I'd be willing to bet there isn't any guide left and there are wear marks on the cover itself. This could mean the timing cover and chain are worn out and need serviced. Since you're already into the head gasket this far go ahead and do it just to be safe as you have already passed the check before you wrench stage. After you pull the head go ahead and pull the timing cover and check for wear and replace the chain if it hasn't been done in the last 100 thousand miles or so. Start researching and reading now as opposed to picking up your tools and pulling crap apart. Here are some links for you to read https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-212688/
Start here and get some knowledge. There are two schools of thought when doing the timing chain. one is to skip pulling the head when servicing and slid the whole shebang through the head and the other is to go ahead and pull the head which is a bit more work but the more traditional way of doing it. You're already elbow deep in this job so may as well cover you bases and do the chain while you're at it. good luck and slow down before you create more work than needed.

coronadrinker85

Thanks for the info. I'm kinda worried I bit off more than I can chew but i'll get it done, might just need to call in some help from a few buddies

coronadrinker85

well guys i got some time today so i got the head off! found some coolant in cylinder #3 and a lot of coolant when i drained the oil. drivers side chain guide is missing :-( looks like i'm in for more work than i thought. can you guys point me in the direction of good parts not at steelership prices? Is it a must to drop the front diff. to drop the oil pan?

quiggs12

Some might say not to dropping the pan but it is a must!. If you have any pieces of the timing chain guide stuck in the oil pan it could potentially get into the oil pump and screw up everything. Some like to visually check without dropping the pan but I tried this and everything looked great but then decided I should drop it anyways. When I did sure enough I found several hidden pieces. Yes it is more work but it seems you have given yourself plenty anyways so you might as well go all out doing everything right!

coronadrinker85

so is that a yes or a no on dropping the diff?

seeing as there is coolant in the #3 cylinder was i correct about the head gasket, or is there some other screwy way it ended up in there?

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

drop the diff, order your parts from ted at engnbldr. Yes you are right about the head gasket but also take a really good look at the timing cover when you pull it as there might be holes or cracks letting coolant into your oil. This could have been the cause of the head gasket failure as they don't just blow unless something is wrong in the 22re's. Given it could have just happened and the head gasket was the only problem but in this case it's way better to be safe as opposed to sorry since you don't want to do this job twice.

quiggs12

DROP! A must...

coronadrinker85

Yeah im thinking that it must have a hole and once all that coolant went over to hang out with the oil there wasnt enough left to cool the engine. How about as far as oil and water pumps, do I need new ones?