West Ga 4x4

Hey everyone! Kinda new here. I am just getting to start working on my truck. She is an 86 short cab 4x4. I got her from the original owner. He has ahd all the records since new down to every oil change. She has about 225k. So, I have done a little preventive maitnence. I did a DOA timing chain, cam and high vol. oil pump. I just put a magnaflo high flow cat and a freeer flowing muffler too. I also did a new water pump and radiator. On monday I ordered new tires (http://treadwright.com/Tires-31x10_50R15_M_T-P16.aspx). I have built enough trucks to know that a little frendly advice goes a LONG way! I am trying to keep her totally streetable. I really just want a truck that can get me arround town and out on my hunting lease and to do some 4wheeling. Ideally I would like something that I can come to some of these trail rides and not have to get winched throught the intire trail!! But, at the same time I don't want to put it on top loaders either! The suspension is totally stock. So, I am sure that needs to be addressed. I have read several posts that people say the suspension is best left stock? So, is it better to just freshin up the suspension and use a body lift? I just want to get things rolling in the right direction from the get go Any and ALL advice is greatly appriciated! I no I am gonna get a LOT of "you should search this or that". But, I have read such mixed reviews about just about every different product I just don't want to waste a BUNCH of money! So, I am looking for a prooven trail set-up.
Thanks
-Kris
"Kerm"

CanTheWhales

I run 33x12.50's with no lift at all on my 1986... <LINK>

It's all about personal taste and what kind of wheeling you plan to do. I live in coastal FL so I do some trails and a lot of sand so I can get away with really wide tires combined with a Locker.

What people say about the IFS being left stock is that if you start doing hardcore stuff with an old rig with tweaked torsion bars and wheel spacers, you're gonna break something, but if you prepare for the added stress of these parts, you shouldn't have such drastic results.

I personally really don't like body lifts unless absolutely necessary. If you get it just to jam giant tires under a very light truck, stuffs gonna break left and right (if you don't roll it first). If it's a matter of clearance between drive lines and chassis etc. then there is a place for it.

Post some more photos when you get it out and see what you think it needs for yourself.

I hope this helps, and I'm sorry if it came off sounding condescending, but I went through the same era you are and just found out you just really got to figure out what works for you sometimes.

Matt16

Lockers. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f105...review-143163/

spdjnky

I went with OME 2" leaf springs and 1.5" BJ spacers. I drive mine 60% of the time <--gas prices and I have been on quite a few trail rides. Truthfully I wish I would have went with 68" chevy leafs in the rear for more flex, but i am happy with the setup right now. It's does good for an "all purpose" vehicle.

also like Matt16 said...Locker. I want rear locker but the choice as to what to get...Aussie, selectable??? is up to you.



hope this helps.

West Ga 4x4

Thanks for all the help! This is exactly the info I needed! I have no idea that I could fit 33's under this thing stock! I was really thinking that a locker would be a good start. What gearing do you think I sould go with on a truck like this. I am not really considering going any bigger than about a 33x12.50. So, You can use a Chevy rear leaf in the rear of this truck? Is this commonly done? How do I know which one to get? Is the ride still diecent? So, the ball joint spacers seem to be a pretty good way to gain a few inches. Anyone recomend a certain manufacturer?
Thanks again!
-Kris

CC_yota

SDORI or 4Crawler for the BJ spacers. The Chevy springs you need are 88-98 1/2 ton springs. You're going to have to relocate the spring hangers and shackles, and they're probably going to give you closer to 3-4" of lift, but they're supposed to ride and flex very well. Also consider a u-bolt flip even if you don't lift it.

Evil.Dingo

nice ride! your gonna luv it! I put 31"s on mine and I am amazed at how well it wheels. Blows my mind how this little truck can pull up a steep wash out with a full bed of wet fire wood. I'm leaving mine stock and just doing maintenance: head, timing chain, rockers, oil/water pump, clutch. Your goin to luv it stock! I put rachos around so far and that made a big difference. Next is OEM rear springs.
Heres mine



http://windymountainwhirligigs.com/yoda.html

toyotatom93

I like your dog

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

If you want to just do hunting trails and such, get a rear locker and a winch and forget the lift.

SAMSON661

i'm pretty much just leaving mine stock but i'm going to locker and some new shocks mine are pretty old

bigt

stock lift welded rear and a winch.. all my trail rig needs..
fun ass hell to bomb around in..

now when i build my crawler/buggy thats when you go crazy and mortagage the house!!

leebee

you might find some interesting things in this article:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/hottoy/west/

lee

scuba

Ha, off topic,but Pretty dog

Jay351

Heres a list of things to make a nice reliable street/light trail truck.


- You can run 33x10.50" stock (its the width that kills clearance). If you want to go any wider, consider a 1-2" body lift ( I run a 3" for added clearance).

- Rear locker, selectable would be ideal, but they are pricey! An aussie would be a good choice. I would also take the time to re-gear if you are runnin 4.10's (go to 4.56's for 31's and 4.88's for 33's).

- Armor, those tube bumpers you got are just for looks, they won't offer any real protection. Consider a nice rear tube bumper (need a rear recovery point), then you can move on to a front bumper and even sliders. Marlin Crawler makes VERY good armor!

- For added flex, throw on a set of 1.5" balljoint spacers. You can leave the t-bars stock and enjoy 1.5" of lift and about the same of added compression travel. OR relax the t-bars and keep the stock height but with added flex.

Theres some food for thought. Do some re-search on the products mentioned and you can go from there.

West Ga 4x4

Thanks for all the help guys! I think I have found the direction I am heading in with the article that LeeBee attached and all of your help! That is EXACTLY what I am looking to do. I really had NO idea how capable these lil trucks are in stock form! I think I wasted a lot of time with one tons on top loaders!! I have 3 1 tons and I honestly have not driven them in about 3 weeks. I laughed to myself when I mowed arround them today mowing my lawn! So, dose anyone have any recomendations on lockers? I don't know if it is really necessary to use an ARB? Thanks for the comments on the dog! I actually breed them. So, if anyone wants a Bad A$$ pit ya know where to go. I really appriciate all the help everyone! Oh one last thing! I have 5 265x80x16 swamper tsl radals. I have them left over off of another truck. They are like brand new. What rims do I need to get them to fit? I am not really that familar with the offset or backspacing on these trucks. Or what ya need so they wont rub. I don't mind of they stick out a bit. I just don't want the rub!
Thanks Ya'll!!!
-Kris

Jay351

Whats that in inches?

Stock backspacing on your IFS rig is right about 4.75". If you want to run the bj spacers you will need rims with 4" or less backspacing to clear the upper a-arm. Get some wheels with 3.75-4" of backspacing and your rims will clear. You will probibly need some trimming of the inner fender pinch weld.

MIKEMOKAS

personally i would...

invest in some nice wheels, bj spacers up front, add a leaf in the rear with a locker. your truck would be sitting with a nice stance and look nice too with your new wheel and tire combo. whats the deal with the topper? is that a must-have?

whats up with those tires? the all terrain one is a bfg at clone and the mt one is a mtr clone...? how much was your total to your door?, if you dont mind me asking. id like to buy the ones you did, but to ship all 4 of them would be like 123 bucks. + the cost of each tire.

ttyl!

AxleIke

I don't know about proven, but I like the way my set up works.

Arb air lockers front and rear, Marlin Ultimate duals, 33x9.50's, armor, stock height.

If I'm getting winched, its generally not good

West Ga 4x4

Axle,Mike and Jay

Jay, I believe 265x80x16 would close to a 32-33x10.50x16. I really want to use these tires but have had such a hard time finding the rims I need. Ya can't really find a rim with a 3" backspacing for these trucks??

Mike, I paid exactly 400 for mine to my door. So, 75 a tire and 25 shipping! That is hard to beat! You could actually buy 2 sets for the price of one set of BFG's. I no,I no! They are remanufactured tires! But, my truck is NOT a commuter vehicle. So, for my application they were a "No Brainer"! As far as the topper goes. I actually like it! I have a few big one tons if I wanna haul anything arround. I can put a few dogs in it and go to the farm or keep a lil something dry in there. So, for now.... Or until it gets ripped off by something. It is gonna stay!

Axle,
That is a Bad A$$ rig ya got there! Do ya recomend the arb's for daily driving(arround town)? What is the deal with the Marlin crawler stuff? I am pretty new to the Toy stuff. I thought I have seen somewhere that you can mate together 2 Toyota transfer cases for a crawler type set-up? We used to mount 2 truck trannys together back in the day in our huntin buggys. But we were runnin huge rice & cain tractor tires. I like how capable that lil truck is! Any build advice ya can give me would be great!

Thanks All!
-Kris

AxleIke

I HIGHLY recommend ARB's. However, they are pricey. IMO, they are the BEST locker around. But you pay for it.

If you are on a budget, I'd recommend a lockright or aussie in the rear. They take some getting used to, but as you say, you don't have a commuter. And you don't have snow.

You essentially have it right. I have 2 transfer cases. My front one is a stock "front half" of a Toyota transfer case, with a 1:1 high range, and a 2.28:1 low range.

My rear case is a Toyota case with a 1:1 high range, and a 4.7:1 low range.

With 4.88 gears in the diffs, I have a 4 speed transfer case, and a final gear reduction of 206:1.

I would rate my lockers as my all time best modification, and my transfer cases as an extremely close second.

Now, as for build advice, I recommend that you really think about the type of wheeling you do. Sounds like you do some trail running, for both hunting and recreation, and some mud.

Since you got a GREAT deal on the tires, I would put an aussie or lockright in the back, and get some good armor on your truck. Then, wait a while.

On the net, you will find about 100,000 people who want to tell you how to build YOUR truck. No. You need to build your truck to fit YOU. I recommend the locker and armor because either the lockright or aussie is an EASY install, requires no gear set up, and will serve you well, and the armor is just smart. No matter what type of wheeling you do, mistakes will get make. The armor just makes sure that its not a big deal when it happens.

From there, wheel it, and see what area's you find you'd like to improve.

I could talk all day long about mods and this or that. I live in CO, not GA. Totally different terrain, and my advice would be pretty meaningless.

Good luck man!