Pros and Cons of the 3.0 V6
08-19-2016, 03:35 PM
#61
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35mph in 5th? maybe that's your problem right there?
Both those motors were factory motors. My roommate's spun a bearing at 155k and mine had a connecting rod nut fall off and threw a rod at 225k. Mine happened going 35MPH on the freeway in 5th gear and his happened coming back from the grocery store. Neither had ever been opened up/tampered with, and well maintained. Even with my brand new motor (built RIGHT) it's still a noisy dog that i don't trust and gets only slightly (maybe 2?) MPG better than my 92' truck with the v6. I work on my vehicles at least 3 times a week, it's definitely not due to abuse and CERTAINLY not neglect. It was my experience that my v6 treated me FAR better, had more power, ran smoother, sounded better, and only got slightly less mileage. Remember that the 22re is OLD technology, not only electronically, but mechanically. The R family of engines debuted in 1953. I just don't think anyone should be put off by the old 3.slow. It's still 3.Awholelotfasterthanthe22re and just about the only disadvantage i see is that it's harder to work on. I don't think the 3VZE's reputation is entirely deserved, and for that matter, neither is the 22re's. Just my 2 cents.
08-20-2016, 07:17 PM
#62
CONS:
V8 like MPG
4 cylinder like power
extreamly difficult to work on when In the vehicle
Very complicated vacuum and electrical system
known head gasket issues
knock sensor issues
extreamly hard to work on for do it your self mechanics.
Expensive to maintain and rebuild
All worth while mods are $$$$
4.0 Jeep engine will out perform the 3VZE in every way possible.
PROS:
Strong bottom end
More power over the 22RE
3.4 swaps are the best upgrade and bolt to transmission
The ones that do not have head gasket or code 52 issues seem to run forever.
Stronger axles and transmission over most 4 cylinder applications.
V8 like MPG
4 cylinder like power
extreamly difficult to work on when In the vehicle
Very complicated vacuum and electrical system
known head gasket issues
knock sensor issues
extreamly hard to work on for do it your self mechanics.
Expensive to maintain and rebuild
All worth while mods are $$$$
4.0 Jeep engine will out perform the 3VZE in every way possible.
PROS:
Strong bottom end
More power over the 22RE
3.4 swaps are the best upgrade and bolt to transmission
The ones that do not have head gasket or code 52 issues seem to run forever.
Stronger axles and transmission over most 4 cylinder applications.
Last edited by cbr600rx7; 08-21-2016 at 06:56 AM.
08-24-2016, 11:41 AM
#63
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What do you use your truck for....
Tow a 3000lb trailer? Commuter? Wheeler? Etc. Etc.
It is all about what your truck is for that makes the motor seem good or bad...
Towing more than say 3000lb's regularly = Get a bigger truck the 22 or 3.0 won't be adequate
If you load 500-1000lb's into your truck the 3vze will be the way to go
Only load up once in a while - Get a 22re
Commute - 22re
Wheel - Go with either but crawling will be cheaper/easier with a 22re and double gear box.
I commute, like driving a truck and haul dirtbikes around in the bed of the truck. The 3vze is my chosen motor because the truck was cheap, in great condition and I can do a head gasket job myself (reason it was cheap). My only complaint is that the truck loses speed up hill/grades. Going over the pass is going to be a slow endeavor compared to my V8. Other than that the truck/motor will do it all without any hiccups.
Complex and hard to work on.... NOPE... harder than a 22re, YEP. The 3vze is simple to be honest. Use a Chilton's, FSM or the web and you can do just about any job on that truck at home with a good tool set.
It is a good motor but under-powered compared to any subsequent V6 (1996 and on) and some I4's of recent years. The only substitution for more power from a 22RE and 3VZE is the 5VZFE. No other motor will be as cost effective unless you are getting it for free. I plan to go 5VZFE or 1UZ (if I can find it for free somehow). The 5VZFE swap should be around $3K if you utilize a low miles motor (under 70K) and ORS stand alone harness. Motor and harness is $2K then $1K for the rest of what you will need to complete the swap (intake, ECU, etc, etc.).
Tow a 3000lb trailer? Commuter? Wheeler? Etc. Etc.
It is all about what your truck is for that makes the motor seem good or bad...
Towing more than say 3000lb's regularly = Get a bigger truck the 22 or 3.0 won't be adequate
If you load 500-1000lb's into your truck the 3vze will be the way to go
Only load up once in a while - Get a 22re
Commute - 22re
Wheel - Go with either but crawling will be cheaper/easier with a 22re and double gear box.
I commute, like driving a truck and haul dirtbikes around in the bed of the truck. The 3vze is my chosen motor because the truck was cheap, in great condition and I can do a head gasket job myself (reason it was cheap). My only complaint is that the truck loses speed up hill/grades. Going over the pass is going to be a slow endeavor compared to my V8. Other than that the truck/motor will do it all without any hiccups.
Complex and hard to work on.... NOPE... harder than a 22re, YEP. The 3vze is simple to be honest. Use a Chilton's, FSM or the web and you can do just about any job on that truck at home with a good tool set.
It is a good motor but under-powered compared to any subsequent V6 (1996 and on) and some I4's of recent years. The only substitution for more power from a 22RE and 3VZE is the 5VZFE. No other motor will be as cost effective unless you are getting it for free. I plan to go 5VZFE or 1UZ (if I can find it for free somehow). The 5VZFE swap should be around $3K if you utilize a low miles motor (under 70K) and ORS stand alone harness. Motor and harness is $2K then $1K for the rest of what you will need to complete the swap (intake, ECU, etc, etc.).
08-25-2016, 11:23 PM
#64
Registered User
Like other have said, the 3.0 won't win any performance contests. On the other hand I've owned my '91 3.0 since new and have put 230,000 trouble-free km on it with nothing but scheduled maintenance, all of which i did myself. (Other than the head gasket recall which was done by the dealer back in the early '90's). My theory has always been "do regular maintenance, fix small problems before they get big and you'll get good reliability". So far it's worked.
The one mod that I found woke up the 3.0 a little bit was the Thorley headers and high flow exhaust I put on in '96. Also may have helped reliability by getting more heat away from the engine. I had 22R engines in pickups I owned prior to the 4runner and I definitely like the 3.0 better, especially for towing my boat or my travel trailer.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Jim G.
The one mod that I found woke up the 3.0 a little bit was the Thorley headers and high flow exhaust I put on in '96. Also may have helped reliability by getting more heat away from the engine. I had 22R engines in pickups I owned prior to the 4runner and I definitely like the 3.0 better, especially for towing my boat or my travel trailer.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Jim G.
Last edited by jgrant721; 08-25-2016 at 11:24 PM.
09-12-2016, 09:09 PM
#65
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Can someone please help i just bought my first 4 runner I'm excited but lost I have no power going up hill and taking off unless I put it to the floor taking off i have replaced plugs ,wires ,air filter, fuel filter, oil change, and topped off tranny fluid it was a little low I don't know what killing my power it will feel like it's gonna do good then just starts bogging down even in 2nd gear please help
Last edited by Cooper4runner; 09-12-2016 at 09:10 PM.
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