VA_Yotaman

Holy smokes, I a pissed!!!! After my recent t-belt/WP install, I am leaking coolant. The WP came with a paper gasket, and my "mechanic" buddy assured me that was all that needed. Should some RTV be used also? Anything on the bolts? I am also assuming that the crank pulley has to be removed to get to the water pump?

eric-the-red

I used RTV for the pump on my 93, I got a free tube of the black Toyota stuff when I bought the timing belt and pump. No leaks 3 years later. I would just use RTV, without a gasket though.

As for the crank pulley I never tried getting to the water pump without removing it. It's been a while since I did the job so I can't remember exactly what it looks like.

VA_Yotaman

I've thought about this for a while now, what are the chances of everything holding for 2 1/2 months, and now I am leaking. Bad pump possible? Also, what kind of prep work is done to the mounting surface? I cleaned as well as I could with a scraper without damaging the mating surface of the block. Well, at least I was planning on replacing my radiator soon, so some of the work would have to be done anyway.

Cebby

Mounting surface should be completely clear and clean. The recommended gasket maker is the black Toyota FIPG (form in place gasket).

Toyota Seal Packaging 102 (FIPG)
P/N 00295-00103

Here are my escapades with my pump (on a 1UZ, but you get the idea)

midiwall

_right_. A paper gasket is worthless right there.

kyle_22r

you should use both the gasket and sealer. i'm partial to permatex gray...it's just as good as FIPG and only about $3 a tube.

87TurboYota

When I rebuilt my motor a year ago I used a gasket and some RTV and I remember having to clean off the WP pretty good before hand. So far so good as far as I can tell.

Lt. Dan

Very possible. Did you buy your pump from Toyota, or did you get it from a auto parts store? (Napa, Auto Zone, ect....)
I don't know about your moter, but I just replaced my water pump on my 85. It was running the original pump from the factory. 21 years old. I have heard enough nightmares about aftermarket waterpumps. So I paid the $140.00 at the stealership. (Compared to the $30.00 I would have paid at Napa)
My $.02

VA_Yotaman

Beck Arnley pump from NAPA. Also, can anyone weight in on wether or not the WP requires the removal of the crank pulley? I am assuming that it would since the t-belt has to come off.

nrgetic99

Yup,

Just put a long cheater on your breaker bar and wedge it up under the frame by the steering box and remove coil lead then just bump starter.

You will break torque no trouble

David

LOCKnGO

I spoke to a rep from Beck Arnely not too long ago and he told me that 'most' of their products are OEM parts and that it is just re-boxed with their label. I have to say that I have been very satisfied with their line for some time now.

**On a side note a Mercedes tech told me to use wheel bearing grease on paper gaskets, I have done this on water outlet housings and never had a leak. He said the gasket will swell and seat better. I have never done this on water pumps tho.

4runnermt

I use the gaskets and rtv silicone without leaks. And I've used wheel bearing grease on oil pan gaskets(gasket to block side) without any leaks.

wrenchmonster

Super clean gasket surface can't be stressed enough. I use a die grinder with a scrubby (scotch brite pad). Then clean off with brake cleaner. For water pumps I use the gasket and airplane sealer (brown sticky gooey stuff that comes in a bottle with a brush). Apply sealer to both sides of the gasket, add some blue (medium) threadlocker to the bolts (which I cleaned at the bench grinder brush and brake cleaned) and torque in the correct pattern. For through bolt applications (where the end of the bolt is exposed to coolant) I use liquid threadsealer instead of threadlocker.

Gasket makers are good too, just make sure they can withstand exposure to coolant. Grease comes from the old school days when felt and leather seals were common. Although grease can work in some applications, I personally like to use modern sealants.

4runnermt

Thats funny, I use the airplane sealer too. I didn't mention it cause I thought everyone might think I'm nuts! It works extremely well on oilpans.

maxpower_hd

I use the same sealer as well. It works great. I also use the scrubby and grinder wrenchmonster mentioned. The only difference is that I use alcohol or trichloroethylene to clean the surfaces. Mainly because I get it for nothing but it also evaporates quickly and cleanly.

Fahrenheit 451

This probably goes without saying, but I'm going to say it anyway. Whatever gasket making material you use, just don't get crazy with it. A nice thin bead does all the work you need to do. Too much and you wind up with bits and pieces of it floating around in your cooling system which spells trouble as well as potentially preventing the seal from seating nice and flat and tight.

wrenchmonster

Yeah I totally agree. I hate seeing what I call the "silicone snake".

I was re-reading this post and I wanted to add that I think Toyota FIPG is the same as what Napa (permatex) sells as "The Right Stuff". Let me know if I'm wrong. Either way, "The Right Stuff" is an excellent product. Spendy (or "Pricey" for all the East Coasters) but good.

ra33it

Well. Another old thread.
I pulled my water pump which had developed some leakage and it has blue rtv on it.
i'm going to do a light coat of rtv on the pump surface, apply the paper seal, add another light coat of rtv to the other side of the paper seal, and finger tighten it on, per the instructions. I"ll let it sit for an hour or so, torque, and then let it "cure" for 8 hours or so.
Seems to be what is recommend. I don't have airplane sealer, so I'm gonna go with the RTV.

camo31_10.50

i used JUST RTV on my '86 22R...no leaks yet...atleast i believe that's all i used..LOL not 100% sure, but i'm about 90%sure lol

just lettin ya know.

truckman1966

i do tons of timing belt/water pumps at work and i NEVER seal both sides of a gasket. i will right stuff the pump side and clean gasket surface of block with scotch brite roloc disc on my di-grinder. and i'm pretty surethe active ingredient in brakleen is trichloroethylene, hence why it evaporates so quick and clean. that's the difference between carb clean and brakleen. carb clean will leave a residue.