yota4life6

hello again....
Let me start by saying I have done some intense searching on here but cant nail down or find the spefics to my questions.... any advice is appreciated..

ALmost done with 3.0 3vz rebuild and would like to know the proper way to break in a new engine.. I have read a couple posts regarding mileage, RPM, and oil types during breakin but still a little confused as to the correct way...

Can anyone help out with this?
1. regular oil or synthetic, or blend?
2. should I let the truck warm up each morning? I heard constant idle was bad in the beginning..
3. WHen is interstate driving ok?

This is my opportunity to really start fresh and want a long life out of this one... If anyone can offer mileage intervals, oil change, etc....I would greatly appreciate the advice and direction...

1995 4runner 3.0 4x4 auto...

thanks
Yota

just a 22re

ha ha do what i did!!!!!

5w30 chepo oil
up to 5krmps
dizzy set to retarded

full skiny though the floor bord on all runs got up to 5k in 2nd and let off the gas and let it engine brake then do that for 20 minutes!

the first 20 mintues are the ones that let the rings grind you can say the cly wall to make them seal the way they should i did it this way and and at 500 miles do an oil change!thats about it buddy i dont have the link to it any more but yeah

rusche

I just broke in my new 22RE.
Run her up to 5K, then take your foot out of it until you hit idle speed again, then hit 5K again. Repeated process for about 20 minutes, then changed oil.
We ran 5W-30 in mine.
For the next 1,000 miles or so, dont hold any steady RPMs. Cruise control is a big no no on a brand new engine
Just changing your speed by 1 MPH every minute or so will adjust your RPMs enough. Interstate driving is fine as long as you continue to vary your RPMs

wrnchplr

What I always do....run regular oil and change it at 100 miles, 1000, then 3000
Do let the truck warm up some.
I always keep it slower tell the 500 mile mark.

NOW AS PER THE FSM
First start. allow to warm to operating temps just at idle. take the truck and go FULL skinny pedal from 30 to 50 then let of the gas and allow the engine to slow it back down. do this about 15 times. that compression creates a vaccume that seats the rings.

Now as for your idle question, what happens when the engine sits at a constant speed is it will squees the oil out of the bearings. when driving always vary the speed to avoid this..


Now everyone has there own way of breaking in a motor this is just how I do it.

rusche

Am I the only one who changes the oil after the first 20 minutes of break in...?

JsEngine&repair

Best way to do it is to buy mobil 1 clean 5000(NOT A SYNTHETIC!) and then take it for a drive down the interstate after you install the engine and know its not going to leak oil or water.

While driving it, go up to about 60-65 mph varying the throttle speed and then let off and let the engine break you down to about 40 and then keep doing that. Dont drive with a constant engine speed or RPM, make sure you keep varying it. Do that for about 1,000 miles and then change the oil and your engine is broken in.

I WOULDNT rap my new engine up to 5,000 RPMS and then back down like some of these guys are saying. The engine vaccume is most important for seating of the rings, but new rings now are more or less seated in the first 20 mins after starting the truck. High RPMs make me nervous and I wouldnt do that if I were you.

rusche

JsEngine&repair, then your one of those guys who wonders why his truck burns oil after 15,000 miles...
High RPMs and vacuum are crucial to seating your rings properly.

just a 22re

oops sorry i changed my oil right after the 20 minutes of brake in and i cut the oil filter in half and made sure there was NO metal in the oil there should be a little bit though just as things are seating and what not thats normal BUT to much and you might wanna try taking it apart again sorry i forgot that one thing

yota4life6

thanks guys.. good !!

whats the truth on synthetic oils? Most of you suggest regular oil..why is that? Is it true that once you run synth, you cant turn back to reg?

any oil suggestions are appreciated...
yota

just a 22re

no no you can go from syn to reg but not reg to syn with out getting the cleaning stuff for it

as for burning oil in the first 15k ha ha i had about 5k on my truck and drove it stright to cali! from milwaukee and then back non stop now i have over 20k on my truck and she still pulls harder then any 4 banger i;ve driven (with this power to weight ratio) and after the first 100 miles i did i then retimed it to about 35 adv if not more yet yes i did that with only 100 miles on the motor and ive taken her to the rev so many times i cant even count ask ozziesmanoffroad he saw me do it at his house oh wait thats in cali oh yeah i drove there after this brake in!

just a 22re

oops sorry buddy you should do autozone oil cheap and use 5-30 that way everything is all good for you if you go ahead and stick syn in there from the start you will never seat the rings cause syn is way to slippery for the brake in use normal oil

rusche

just a 22re is right, even if you chose synthetic oil, break in with regular and switch to synthetic after 1,000 miles or so.
I dont know much about synthetic, I've always ran regular so I couldnt tell you any pros and cons, but I know for sure you shouldnt run it during the break in.

just a 22re

i use amsoil and im kinda a seller for it to so yeah oils oil and syn is syn

Pistonman

I am speechless.

abecedarian

yep... where's the zipped lip emoticon?
oh well, guess this will work:

I suppose if you took the best points of each suggestion, you'd have a decent break-in procedure.

but if you're assembling an engine,
-you have assembly lube on various parts... not something you want circulating for very long.
-the point of blipping up to 5000 several times during the initial start-up is to help flush the assembly lube out and get oil in there.
-you change the oil after the initial start-up to get that crud out of the system, that is unless you want the equivalent of lithium or wheel-bearing grease lubing your crank bearings and cam.
-you use a light weight oil because you want it to flow around easily and wash that assembly lube out. you could use a straight 30 weight if you wanted to.
-you don't use synthetic because it will interfere with the rings contacting the cylinder walls and establishing a matched wear pattern.
-you change at a relatively low mileage, typically 250-500 miles, because there is some continued wear from the rings and cylinders and you don't want the metal particles floating around too long in the oil, though they do help accelerate seating the rings, but leave it in too long and they kill bearings. and there is still some assembly lube floating around.
-not maintaing a constant engine speed during the break in period is somewhat of a contentious issue. some people feel it helps keep the rings loose around the piston which helps accelerate the matching of the rings' wear pattern to the cylinder's... others feel it helps build up some residue in the oil scraper ring land (which won't happen with synthetic) to help seat them. personally, after the second oil change (the 250-500 mile one), I drive normally except for not applying full throttle under 2000 rpm's until after the next oil change at around 1500-2000 miles later.

Yopar

iTrader: (2)

My notes for break in:

-use standard dino oil, synthetic is too slippery for proper wear-in of parts (rings, cam lobes)... choose a standard weight oil like straight 30w, a little thinner for the tight clearances

#1
-run the motor (as soon as it starts) from between 2,000rpm and 2,500rpm for cam and lifter break-in, do this for 20 minutes, then you can let the engine idle down, proper cam lobe break-in is essential (if you have new cam/lifters). the higher rpms keep the cam lobes lubricated

#2
- change the oil after cam break-in: at least after the first hour on the engine, ...again at 100 miles,... again at 500 miles

#3
- run the vehicle in high gear at about 50mph on the highway and do 10-20 3/4 throttle presses without downshifting, this will help seat the rings (combustion pressures pushes the rings outward into the cylinder walls)...nice and easy, definitely accelerating but not wrapping it up to 5k... save that till after the motor's got at least 500 miles, I wait till 1000 miles to redline a motor...

That's about it, just change the oil, and don't use synthetic until 5k miles if you choose to go synthetic. Watch the temps too, make sure the cooling system is working proper, especially when you first start it. If there is any doubt in the first few minutes, shut it down, the first few minutes is crucial to engine life.

JsEngine&repair

Ummm no letting off the throttle from 65-40 will create a ton of vaccuum....

FredTJ

Just flat WRONG information....
You can go from dino to synthetic, from synthetic to dyno, mix dino and synthetic, etc., with no problems at all.



Not really true these days anymore.
Both Mobil 1 and Amsoil say you can use their synthetic oils for breakin.
Also, a ton of vehicles these days come with synthetic directly from the factory and virtually none of them are pre-broken in on a dyno.




Fred