Preparing for a timing chain job
06-07-2010, 01:59 AM
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Preparing for a timing chain job
I'm getting ready to change the timing chain and guides in my '95 pickup, it has about 280k miles on the original chain, and it has all the symptoms of a broken guide (rattle on start-up, rattle around 1900-2200 rpm); according to the original owner, the only maintenance he did was what the schedule required (and the timing chain/guides were not on that list). Anyway, I'm preparing to change it (following this guide: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml) and I was wondering about a few things:
- I want to get a metal-backed driver side chain guide, to avoid what I suspect happened to the original one (I think it's currently laying in the oil pan), is Engnbldr a good source for this?
- What else should I replace while I'm in there? I've heard replacing the water pump is a good idea, what about the oil pump? The guide says to install a new crank gear and cam gear, is that needed? Should I install a new tensioner, and is a tensioner included in most timing sets?
- Since the oil pump is removed (I think?) during the process, don't I need to pack it with grease or vaseline before it goes back together?
- How do I set the engine at TDC before I remove the valve cover? This is to make removal/reinstallation of the distributor easier.
- Does Engnbldr's timing set come with all the stuff listed at the top of the guide? (Aside from the carb cleaner, oil, and coolant, of course).
- Will a haynes or chilton manual have the correct torque values for all the bolts I will be removing and then reinstalling? This guide has no torque values for anything.
- Assuming I start out with everything I need, is it feasible to get this done in a weekend? I don't intend to remove the head, as I don't have to according to the guide.
Thanks for any input, this will be the first somewhat major job I've done on a car; I only have experience with small engines.
- I want to get a metal-backed driver side chain guide, to avoid what I suspect happened to the original one (I think it's currently laying in the oil pan), is Engnbldr a good source for this?
- What else should I replace while I'm in there? I've heard replacing the water pump is a good idea, what about the oil pump? The guide says to install a new crank gear and cam gear, is that needed? Should I install a new tensioner, and is a tensioner included in most timing sets?
- Since the oil pump is removed (I think?) during the process, don't I need to pack it with grease or vaseline before it goes back together?
- How do I set the engine at TDC before I remove the valve cover? This is to make removal/reinstallation of the distributor easier.
- Does Engnbldr's timing set come with all the stuff listed at the top of the guide? (Aside from the carb cleaner, oil, and coolant, of course).
- Will a haynes or chilton manual have the correct torque values for all the bolts I will be removing and then reinstalling? This guide has no torque values for anything.
- Assuming I start out with everything I need, is it feasible to get this done in a weekend? I don't intend to remove the head, as I don't have to according to the guide.
Thanks for any input, this will be the first somewhat major job I've done on a car; I only have experience with small engines.
06-07-2010, 08:43 AM
#2
Registered User
I'm getting ready to change the timing chain and guides in my '95 pickup, it has about 280k miles on the original chain, and it has all the symptoms of a broken guide (rattle on start-up, rattle around 1900-2200 rpm); according to the original owner, the only maintenance he did was what the schedule required (and the timing chain/guides were not on that list). Anyway, I'm preparing to change it (following this guide: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ingChain.shtml) and I was wondering about a few things:
- I want to get a metal-backed driver side chain guide, to avoid what I suspect happened to the original one (I think it's currently laying in the oil pan), is Engnbldr a good source for this?
There's debate if there's really an advantage to using the metal guide....and, only the driver's side is metal. Run a search on "timing chain guides". You'll see what I mean. That being said, I've installed one and have had no issues. I think they're a good idea. As well, engbldr is a good source.
- What else should I replace while I'm in there? I've heard replacing the water pump is a good idea, what about the oil pump? The guide says to install a new crank gear and cam gear, is that needed? Should I install a new tensioner, and is a tensioner included in most timing sets?
Water pump r/r is a good idea. The oil pump is mechanical and really shouldn't need it unless the motor was abused. The gears come with the kit, so might as well. It's a good idea, anyway. Tensioner is included and is absolutely necessary.
- Since the oil pump is removed (I think?) during the process, don't I need to pack it with grease or vaseline before it goes back together?
Yes, or STP oil treatment.....whatever.
- How do I set the engine at TDC before I remove the valve cover? This is to make removal/reinstallation of the distributor easier.
Turn the crank to 0* and make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark terminal on the distributor. It'd be a good idea to read the FSM procedures on doing this job before you actually do it, if you have to ask this question. Being familiar with the procedure is much to your benefit.
- Does Engnbldr's timing set come with all the stuff listed at the top of the guide? (Aside from the carb cleaner, oil, and coolant, of course).
You can buy the standard timing kit that comes with chain, guides, tensioner, and gears or modified kits to include pumps and TC cover. The options are listed on his website.
- Will a haynes or chilton manual have the correct torque values for all the bolts I will be removing and then reinstalling? This guide has no torque values for anything.
The Haynes will, for sure. Chilton's should, but I don't have one, so can't say for sure. But, you're best to follow the FSM guidelines. Also, read on what others from YT have done in a search. Lots of tips the FSM doesn't even cover.
- Assuming I start out with everything I need, is it feasible to get this done in a weekend? I don't intend to remove the head, as I don't have to according to the guide.
You don't have to remove the head, but know what you're doing before you do it this. There's already a current thread on this method, but the amount of time it will take depends on how mechanically inclined you are and you're fortune of not running into little problems. Those slow you down....dang it!
Thanks for any input, this will be the first somewhat major job I've done on a car; I only have experience with small engines.
- I want to get a metal-backed driver side chain guide, to avoid what I suspect happened to the original one (I think it's currently laying in the oil pan), is Engnbldr a good source for this?
There's debate if there's really an advantage to using the metal guide....and, only the driver's side is metal. Run a search on "timing chain guides". You'll see what I mean. That being said, I've installed one and have had no issues. I think they're a good idea. As well, engbldr is a good source.
- What else should I replace while I'm in there? I've heard replacing the water pump is a good idea, what about the oil pump? The guide says to install a new crank gear and cam gear, is that needed? Should I install a new tensioner, and is a tensioner included in most timing sets?
Water pump r/r is a good idea. The oil pump is mechanical and really shouldn't need it unless the motor was abused. The gears come with the kit, so might as well. It's a good idea, anyway. Tensioner is included and is absolutely necessary.
- Since the oil pump is removed (I think?) during the process, don't I need to pack it with grease or vaseline before it goes back together?
Yes, or STP oil treatment.....whatever.
- How do I set the engine at TDC before I remove the valve cover? This is to make removal/reinstallation of the distributor easier.
Turn the crank to 0* and make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 spark terminal on the distributor. It'd be a good idea to read the FSM procedures on doing this job before you actually do it, if you have to ask this question. Being familiar with the procedure is much to your benefit.
- Does Engnbldr's timing set come with all the stuff listed at the top of the guide? (Aside from the carb cleaner, oil, and coolant, of course).
You can buy the standard timing kit that comes with chain, guides, tensioner, and gears or modified kits to include pumps and TC cover. The options are listed on his website.
- Will a haynes or chilton manual have the correct torque values for all the bolts I will be removing and then reinstalling? This guide has no torque values for anything.
The Haynes will, for sure. Chilton's should, but I don't have one, so can't say for sure. But, you're best to follow the FSM guidelines. Also, read on what others from YT have done in a search. Lots of tips the FSM doesn't even cover.
- Assuming I start out with everything I need, is it feasible to get this done in a weekend? I don't intend to remove the head, as I don't have to according to the guide.
You don't have to remove the head, but know what you're doing before you do it this. There's already a current thread on this method, but the amount of time it will take depends on how mechanically inclined you are and you're fortune of not running into little problems. Those slow you down....dang it!
Thanks for any input, this will be the first somewhat major job I've done on a car; I only have experience with small engines.
It's all nuts and bolts, so if you're good with a wrench, take pictures, label parts/hoses/etc. it's not difficult. A full day, at most.
06-09-2010, 10:22 AM
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Don't forget to drop the oil pan and remove all of the old plastic timing chain guide chunks.
You will have to drop some steering components to give you room.
You will have to drop some steering components to give you room.
06-09-2010, 12:07 PM
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i used the engine builder kit and it was a breeze. its kind of a messy job so get ready to get filthy. remember to take your time and dont be in a hurry, there are a lot of steps involved.
you will be proud of your self when your done.
you will be proud of your self when your done.
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