Red Wagon

Hiya guys,

My power steering pump valve is ticking which I've seen before so it might be a good time to upgrade my steering. This is the second time I've heard the valve fail in less than a year. I have an 89 parts rig which I can get the pump from and go get longer high pressure hydraulic lines. Anyone know the size to get if I go this route? The pump belt is also damaged and the pulley seems wobbly when it is running. I doubt it's suppose to track like that. My battery slid into it eating a hole in the battery and leaking acid over the pump and idler arm.

My issue with this is I'm on 35' tires so not sure how long this will last and I'm about to go on a long road trip in Arctic and other remote areas of Canada and parts of Alaska in 3 weeks.





http://www.trail-gear.com/pdf/130081-1-k.pdf




I figure this might be a good time for an upgrade and complete removal of the ABS system in my 2nd Gen 4Runner.

It's already unplugged at the rear so I need the longer lines to bypass the actuator and rip it out.



Is it that simple to be rid of the ABS? I was reading that for some people it made their Speedo not work anymore. What else will I need to remove or modify to completely remove the ABS and all it's parts from my rig? What else is this silly system tied into? I was surprised to learn that it was tied into my pump.


Has anyone used the above kit and is it any good?

mt_goat

It is actually a shorter line to bypass the ABS actuator. If you look at a truck the same year that didn't come with ABS they have a line that just goes straight back to the rear, not forward and then back. If you take a VIN number to your dealer from a truck without ABS they should be able to order the section of brake line you need for around $20. Unless it is obsolete now.

I took those PS lines that went to the ABS actuator and replaced with a custom high pressure PS hose for going to the steering box, then used regular ATFcooler hose coming back through an extra tranny cooler I had. The factory setup ran over to a small factory cooler that is really just 2 metal tubes on the way to the steering box and back.

You want the cooler on the low pressure side of the steering box.

Here's what I did: https://www.yotatech.com/912696-post60.html

Red Wagon

There is no Toyota dealer in Yellowknife but I'll have a look. It is difficult to get OEM up here.

So the only way to remove this completely is to get a new brake line? How long did it take you to move the fuel tank and run the line?


So there is still a line that runs from the power steering pump to the rear brakes?



Any idea on these trail gear pumps at all?


Thanks for your help. I need to make a decision tomorrow as I only have days back from the mine before my expedition starts.

mt_goat

Well the brake line runs to the actuator and then to the back, so if you remove the actuator you have to somehow get the brake line reconnected to the back. You need to decide how bad you want to get rid of it. In my case I was doing an engine swap and the engine, transmission, and rear driveshaft were out of the way and it was pretty easy.

The power steering line runs to the ABS actuator on the way to the steering box. That gives the ABS hydraulic power to operate. It does not run to the rear brakes.

I don't know anything about the TG PS pump, I use the stock 5VZFE PS pump that came on my engine. It was designed to run a rack and pinion steering system but works fine for the old trucks too. It just runs at a higher pressure.

wii_tarded

To do my ABS delete, I just used a brake hose from the front of a parts truck to connect the two ends. There is some debate about the durability of this.



It screwed on with no need of any other modifications. I know it handles the pressure due to being a front line. The only concern really raised is that it rubs against the frame. 2 years later and I haven't noticed any issues with it, but I don't dd this truck.

mt_goat

Good idea wii, there is more than one way to do things. You could maybe improve on this some by just using a SS braided brake line instead of rubber. Don't kink it though.

wii_tarded

everything about my truck has been done with budget in mind. That is the reason for a junkyard hose fitting in there and not trying to wrestle a used hard line off a truck and trying to tear mine down enough to put one in.

mt_goat

Just curious, what was your reason for removing the actuator? I needed the spot for something else and it was in the way.

Red Wagon

So to make sure I understand, you took a brake line and connected it to the power steering pump in a loop?

Could your break it down into steps at all? It looks like a great temp idea for me as I'm not sure I like the idea of running a new brake line to the rear. Not with my time constraints anyway.



So would this idea work with which TG kit? I could get the non abs model and run the high pressure hose to my steering box. What would I be doing about the actuator?




Goat I'm still really confused as to why you had to run that brake line. What is it connected to? Does it have a line from the rear to the actuator to the PS pump?




I need to purchase the kit today if I go this route to get it shipped in time. My ABS is disconnected at the diff. Which kit should I go after and what mods do I need to to to get it to work.


I do not mind extra stuff hanging off the frame for now. It's just to get it working properly for my trip. I can clean it up later. I will be able to at least remove the actuator though.





Mine is already disconnected. Might as well get rid of it all together.

wii_tarded

one less system to fail. One less item to worry about during my 3.4 swap.

Red Wagon

I like that plan. That's why I have no ADD anymore and swapped out the axle tube with an 89 4Runner.

wii_tarded

you have the 2 brake lines that stick out of the top of the ABS actuator. I used the rubber brake line that feeds from the hard line to a front caliper to attach to the ends of the lines that run to the actuator. One of the two is a supply, the other is a return. The brake system just sees a normal line.

Red Wagon

I'll go have a look at my truck and see if I can figure out what you mean.


All up you used two rubber lines from a parts rig?

wii_tarded

Nope, just one. Connect one end to the supply, and the other to the return. bleed your brakes thoroughly afterwards. There will be a lot of air in the system.

Red Wagon

Awesome, that seems so simple.


Is there a difference between the PS pumps on an ABS and non ABS truck?

Red Wagon

One big question is, would I need a bigger pump like this TG kit or is the stock option still my best choice?

wii_tarded

I can't say anything about the TG pump. I have a 3.4 swap, and needed the power steering lines, so I just ordered lines for a non-ABS truck.