88-4RUNA

Any tips on bleeding the power steering? I recently replaced the power steering pump. Tried bleeding the system 2 times already, but I still have air in the system because its really hard to turn once the tires are on the ground.

Snorkeldepth

I followed the FSM procedure to refill my system which is basically (with the resevoir intake tube plugged) just filling the resevoir and starting the engine for a few seconds until the fluid level drops and then shutting it off before the resevoir empties . . . . add more fluid and repeat until the fluid is coming out the intake hose without air bubbles in it, hook up the hose and top off the resevoir. I still get a little bump when I come off the left lock. I figure I'll figure that out later because I don't get to that lock that often.

I did read that you can turn the wheels slowly back and forth avoiding the locks (because that increases foaming) to bleed air out. There's also a bleed valve on top of the steering box. The FSM says to bleed the system using that bleed valve. I may give that a try now that I got some clear tubing yesterday.

The thing that gets me is that I allegedly need to take my truck to the dealer to properly finish the bleed procedure because the power steering system is integrated with the ABS system. So, both have to be bled to properly bleed either. AND it takes some complicated machine that only the dealer has! :pat:

88-4RUNA

the proceedure i followed per the instructions with the new pump and from my manual. I lifted the front end, made sure there was fluid in the resevoir. turned the wheel from complete right to complet left arnd 20 times. making sure the resevoir did not go dry. dropped it started it let idle. make sure fluid level didnt drop low. Repeated this again since there is still bubbles in the fluid. liquid looked good, test drove it, and the steering is still hard.

callmej75

I did this procedure for an hour straight one day til I got all of the air out of mine. Patience is the key to this fix....

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

It can take NUMEROUS cycling of the of the process you followed to get all the air out...NUMEROUS cycles, so keep trying and trying. After each cylce let the vehicle sit for 30 minutes to let the air bubbles dissipate, then do it again. Might take a few hours, might take all day...yes, patience is the key, but realistically, mine took like 6 cycles in a couple hours.

88-4RUNA

Should i let it idle in between cycles? Or can i just lift the front end turn wheel 20times completely rom left to right, then just let it sit. and repeat several times? Also any difference if the resevoir cap is on or off? thx everyone.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Have the tires up off the ground, axle on jackstands. Crank it up, cycle the steering lock to lock several times, turn it off. Look for bubbles. If you see some, let it sit for 30 minutes. Repeat. I just left the cap off. Took maybe 2 hours tops and I completely took the whole system apart...box, pump, reservoir, everything...so it shouldn't take much to get r done. Try that and see if it works. Don't add any fluid while it is bubbling...only after you've let it sit and it has gone down some, but don't overfill it or you'll make a mess.

Keep us posted.

mrloyd

I just have to resurect this dead thread to say that wabbit was right. It took jacking up the front, back and forth about 15 times, on the groung about 10 times, around the block twice, back and forth about 10 more times. Beats the hell out of having to replace the power steering pump which is what I though was up!

hedbotch

yes i just changed the power steering pump in my 91 toyo 4runner . as i added the fluid and started the truck it started making these crazy noises. i started to turn the wheels like 40 times added more fluid as needed and its perfect now.

celica5thstreet

I have just replaced pump, rack and high-pressure hose on my 84 Celica. Thought I did something wrong until I read this thread. I will head back to the shop in the morning and keep working the steering back and forth jacked up as recommended. Will post back the result.

ptr1968

Just had the same problem on my pickup.
When you have to turn the steering up to 20 times, it is not good.
Problem can be it is sucking air at the inlet of the pump.
This can be the case even when not leaking oil.
Cause can be the hose between reservoir and pump; hoseclip not too tight or bad hose, they can go bad in the middle (when removing), and block it half.
When it is blocking (for a part) inside, you can hear cavitation in the pump. and it will result that airbubles keep on coming.

peter

rustneversleeps

That part about the final bleeding because the power steering is connected to the ABS rear-end. My pump is LOUD and the brakes moan loudly when brakes applied--the harder you brake the louder it gets. Also, PS fluid (I know, auto tranny fluid) is leaking out of the top past the cap when I drive it. So frustrated with the thing I'm about to just part the truck out...

Innocent Fool

I had a REALLY hard time getting air out of the steering system on a fox body mustang I had. Power assist was OK but when you turned the steering wheel it would whine really loud. Turns out these cars were famous for it and I found a service bulletin from Ford that finally fixed it. Basically, it was to apply vacuum to the reservoir to attract and pull any air out of the system. There was a special tool that was supposed to be used but I made one out of a lid from a spray paint can (Turned out to be a perfect fit). Cut a hole in the lid to attach a hose fitting, put on a hose and attached it to the intake, Used duct tape to seal the lid to the reservoir and started the engine. OK, The Ford procedure said to attach it to a vacuum pump but I used the engine...Yes it pulled power steering fluid into the intake and yes it smoked like crazy but it DID pull ALL the air out of the system in a short time and only had to slowly turn the steering wheel from lock to lock three or four times.

Just an idea, Worked great for me, Your mileage may vary...

sticksnstones

thread revive! Some people still drive these old trucks!
Peter points out something not many address in the numerous PS forum posts. I replaced my pump with a new oem unit convinced that because I couldn't get it to stop whining after repetitive bleeding, that the pump was damaged internally. Well, the new pump went quiet after a short session of bleeding, but only days later the whining has returned, and continues to return regardless of how much I am bleeding. I bleed till quiet and then some, it sits for a day and then the whine has returned. Regardless of how much I bleed, air bubbles always come up when I turn the wheel back to the left. I replaced all the lines previously, but judging by the cracks that have already formed (less than a year) they were not quality. I am under the impression that air is being drawn through these cracks somewhere in the return lines, and making my bleeding efforts useless. New lines will hopefully solve this problem. I have never bled the gear box, as I have read a few posts describing. Has anyone actually done this?

gyates93

I did mine when I replaced it in order to ensure the new steering box had no air in it. Pump level is higher than steering box so im assuming the box bleeder wouldn't get air out of the pump side?
Your pump may whine if the belt is too tight as well (just a thought) and i feel like if a line has a crack that would pull air in it would also let fluid out.. Maybe not for some tiny tiny cracks.