shaeff

Read this thread. The answers to code 52 are in there.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...al-fix-211252/

Korey

Westernbound- I had the exact same symptoms last summer. But it's worse now and usually comes on after 1400 rpms under load.

scope103

shaeff might be annoyed because he thinks no one is listening to him. And I think I agree.

Code 52 is thrown when the ECU does NOT receive a knock signal in 6 revolutions. Leak in the head gasket? No. Bad PCV valve? No. Too much knocking? No. As he points out, either the knock signal is not getting from the sensor to the ECU (bad wiring), the sensor is dead, or the sensor is loose (not picking up the knock signal) [don't go crazy; it's only about 52 INCH-lbs].

This article http://www.toyotapartsandservice.com...-Knock-TPS.pdf provided me with a lot of insight; not many of us have a scope with which to diagnose parts, but I'm thinking of hooking up mine just to see if I can duplicate the article.

Korey

Don't forget it was mentioned in the other thread that a rebuild or new replacement parts may be better than factory, thus making the engine quiet enough that the knock sensor can't "hear" the knocking.

westernbound

mount the knocksensor on the engine lift hook..the near fire wall..drill hole the same diameter as the threads on sensor slide sensor into hole..attach nut to draw it tight..buy pigtail harness and hook it to the existing hook up on harness after detaching originl one..hook to knock sensor on hook and done..problem solved jst did it the other day.NO MORE CEL!!!!!!!!!got the power back and gas milage

bugs1961

You're at least the second person to get rid of the CEL by moving the sensor. It may well be that the original location has a problem that prevents the sensor from producing the necessary signal to the ECU that indicates everything's working.

My concern is that every knock sensor I've encountered is mounted on the block somewhere and you moved it to the cylinder head. The sensor may not detect detonation at that location and fail to retard timing when necessary. This would be bad.

I'm going to take a look around and see if there is a boss on the block that can be used as an alternate site for the sensor but I won't see my truck for a couple of weeks. If anyone wants to pursue this it may save everyone a lot of trouble.

Bugs

westernbound

The lift hook is bolted to the block and ive read were guys have takn air hammers to the opposite side of the block and the knock sensor detected it and retarted the timing..

bugs1961

My lift hooks are on the heads. To be on the block they would have to be below the exhaust manifolds, which are bolted to the heads.

westernbound

Mabye I'm wrong...

BBQGuy

Code 52 - power loss, I am at wites end and see no answers. PLEASE HELP!!!!!

TNRabbit

Did you even read this thread??

neockder

The way I fixed it, was to get a 1st gen pickup

No CEL! Now to consider dropping in a 2.7l..

1styota4X4

just a thought similar problem with my friends corolla. He had issues like you guys are saying and the fuel sock(attaches to the bottom of fuel pump in tank) was clogged so the motor wasnt getting the correct amont of fuel. I know the earlier runners had an access panel so real easy to check. I would look there before moving something that somepeople including my self never had the code come up in my old runner.

bluAM2

FIXED!!! Holy bejesus there IS a God!
So after something like 2 years and 10,000 miles, my code 52 is finally gone and I have my power back. It all started with a blown head gasket on #6 where I decided to do it myself. This was my first real project on a road worthy vehicle, but I've had plenty of mechanical experience before so I figured ... how hard could it be!? Boy oh boy ... Long story short, and a short block and a long block later, I finally got my hands on a brand new 3VZE. Fast forward some more and it's finally all back together around February 2010. BUT I have the code 52 issue as I'm sure I posted way back in this thread. Well I had several options to look at to try and fix this issue, but I could never decide on which one and never had the time/money to try anything. Especially because this is my daily driver, any work I started would have had to be done by the end of the night so I could make it to the job in the morning.
So anyway, I finally decided to throw the towel in about mid September of this year and take it to Jason at Better Off Road who see's a lot of 1st, 2nd, and 3rd Gens come thru the shop. This was his first real experience with the knock sensor issue though so he wasn't real sure what to do right away either. All in all he had the thing for about a month (would have been quicker I'm sure, but he was swamped and I told him to take his time). We discussed a few different things and decided to go ahead and remount a known good sensor elsewhere on the engine. He does a lot of lift kits there so he had a spare brake line drop bracket that he used and mounted it right on top of the intake plenum by the throttle body (pictures later). It actually looks somewhat professional, though I'd like to do a little weather proofing still. BUT ... since mounting the sensor there ... NO MORE CEL!!! And I have all the power the 3.0 will give me finally (somewhere at or slightly above go-kart level power).
To tell the truth, I'm only about 90% sure that the location of the sensor is the issue. When I did the rebuild, I took the advice of this forum and replaced the knock sensor AND the pigtail because it's such a pain in the schvanz, but there's no guarantee that the BWD brand sensor that I got from the local autoparts store is even good. Since it's running now and I don't have any knocking, I'm not going to mess with it, but I think I've learned my lesson ... BUY OEM.

apd0451

I'm having the same issue, it would be great if you could post pictures of the finished job.

bluAM2

https://www.yotatech.com/members/blu...de+52+fix.html

apd0451

Thanks, that helps a lot. Pictures make it a lot easier to understand. Did you just buy a new wire and leave the old one connected to the knock sensor still mounted to the engine? Seems the easiest way to do it, that way I dont have to take the intake off.

bluAM2

Exactly what I did. You're going to need another sensor and wire altogether if you do that, but if you have the money, I'd recommend it since, like you said, you have to pull the intake and all that.

Out of curiosity, what kind of set up are you running? If you have any excessive drivetrain noise, this could cause an issue from what I've gathered. I also run a fairly strong magnetic drain plug in the oil pan, which I got to thinking might be another issue since these sensors are so sensitive?

apd0451

I just bought a 95 4runner 4x4 auto for a great price, its not a dd just a camping / offroad project. The engine cranks every time no issues and runs quiet. I can def tell its suffering a power loss though and the exhaust smells very rich. The cel stays on all the time, and its code 52. Only other problem it has is a squeaky lower ball joint on the drivers side.

bluAM2

when you start it up try driving it like a bat out of hell right away and see if the light comes on. or when you say the CEL is on all the time do you mean ALL the time. if it's on ALL the time you may have continuity issues?