Possible Hydrolock what to do
11-10-2008, 10:10 AM
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Possible Hydrolock what to do
Ok so I was out messing around yesterday afternoon with a bunch of buddies and hit a large body of water. I hit this same puddle last week with no ill effects and water was about 4" from the bottom of the door. I hit the water a little fast this time though and water splashed over the hood and the 4runner instantly died. Now I knew enough to not even attempt to start it so my buddy pulled me out and I pulled the plugs, air filter, intake tube etc and drained as much water as possible. I then reassembled everything minus the air filter and with the plugs still out I turned the 4runner over for approximately 15-20sec. I then waited a minute and repeated and then waited another min and turned it over again. Only hot air came out.
So I installed a set of my buddies old spark plugs and it finally started however it however it ran pretty crappy but there were no metal noises and the engine sounded smooth. but white smoke followed by gassy smelling smoke came out of the exhaust. I'm guessing this is due to water in the oil. Fast forward to this morning my buddy towed me home and I washed and cleaned the whole 4runner and engine bay. I then pulled the cap and there was some water in there....I'm guessing this is why it ran like crap and had no power.
Everything is now drying, I cleaned the k&n, cleaned the throttle body the best I could, I'm changing the oil tonight, putting in new spark plugs and I'm charging my battery.
So what do you guys think? Should it be ok? Any other suggestions before I try to start it? I'm thinking worst case is a blown headgasket....
One thing is for sure I learned my lesson and will not be playing in water/mud anymore.
I was pretty depressed last night but whats done is done.
This is my winter dd and it's getting ready to snow so speed is needed.
So I installed a set of my buddies old spark plugs and it finally started however it however it ran pretty crappy but there were no metal noises and the engine sounded smooth. but white smoke followed by gassy smelling smoke came out of the exhaust. I'm guessing this is due to water in the oil. Fast forward to this morning my buddy towed me home and I washed and cleaned the whole 4runner and engine bay. I then pulled the cap and there was some water in there....I'm guessing this is why it ran like crap and had no power.
Everything is now drying, I cleaned the k&n, cleaned the throttle body the best I could, I'm changing the oil tonight, putting in new spark plugs and I'm charging my battery.
So what do you guys think? Should it be ok? Any other suggestions before I try to start it? I'm thinking worst case is a blown headgasket....
One thing is for sure I learned my lesson and will not be playing in water/mud anymore.
I was pretty depressed last night but whats done is done.This is my winter dd and it's getting ready to snow so speed is needed.
Last edited by PirateMcgee; 11-10-2008 at 10:13 AM.
11-10-2008, 11:20 AM
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Ideally you should have changed the oil before cranking it...not the end of the world. Change the oil now...use inexpensive stuff because you're going to change it again and again.
For the most part, you've taken the appropriate steps. I'd pull air filter and check for water (very good chance of it). Replace the filter. Pull the air cleaner hose. Inspect the throttle body and intake for water. If there is water, I'd pull the throttle body and the upper intake chamber and clean out and let dry. A good shot of intake cleaner into the intake manifold will help clear up any water and even clean it. May also want check the MAF sensor (connected to the air filter) and make sure it didn't crap out from the water. Unlikely, but if it did, it could lead to a very rough idle.
Next, change the oil. Now crank it. It should run like usual. Assuming the distributor, wires and plugs are all okay. Drive it for a few miles, at least up to operating temp. Change the oil again as soon as you can tolerate the heat. If you let it cool down to far, the oil and water will separate. Change filter and refill with oil. If all is well, drive another 500 miles and change the oil again, again with the engine warm.
You should be good to go. You're looking at $8 for the intake gasket set. And oil and filters.
If it's still running rough, then you've likely damage a cylinder, piston, rod, or something internally. H20 can't be compressed and if attempted can break a rod apart. Since you had it running before without having cleaned the distributor, I'm hoping it's just that.
Keep us posted.
For the most part, you've taken the appropriate steps. I'd pull air filter and check for water (very good chance of it). Replace the filter. Pull the air cleaner hose. Inspect the throttle body and intake for water. If there is water, I'd pull the throttle body and the upper intake chamber and clean out and let dry. A good shot of intake cleaner into the intake manifold will help clear up any water and even clean it. May also want check the MAF sensor (connected to the air filter) and make sure it didn't crap out from the water. Unlikely, but if it did, it could lead to a very rough idle.
Next, change the oil. Now crank it. It should run like usual. Assuming the distributor, wires and plugs are all okay. Drive it for a few miles, at least up to operating temp. Change the oil again as soon as you can tolerate the heat. If you let it cool down to far, the oil and water will separate. Change filter and refill with oil. If all is well, drive another 500 miles and change the oil again, again with the engine warm.
You should be good to go. You're looking at $8 for the intake gasket set. And oil and filters.
If it's still running rough, then you've likely damage a cylinder, piston, rod, or something internally. H20 can't be compressed and if attempted can break a rod apart. Since you had it running before without having cleaned the distributor, I'm hoping it's just that.
Keep us posted.
11-10-2008, 11:22 AM
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rereading your post, I see you already inspected the intake. Still might not hurt to pull the upper chamber and check for water sitting in the lower half. Not entirely necessary...just one step beyond caution.
11-10-2008, 11:27 AM
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I work at a lube shop while going to school full time so I will be changing the oil multiple times over and over till there is no residue. No biggy since it's free. I can also change the oil when it is blistering hot since I change oil on cars that have been idling in line with their a/c on for and hour.
I've read a lot of stuff and it sounds like it should be fine. The truck turns over just fine and the motor is smooth when it runs just sounds like it has a miss and couldn't idle on it's own hopefully from the water in the distributor. I also cleaned the k&n and the afm. I'll also spray down all my connections with wd40. Hopefully all will be well.
I'm praying it is all ok and would appreciate prayers from everyone else too.
I got a little too overzealous with my new runner/first 4wd definately learned my lesson though.
I've read a lot of stuff and it sounds like it should be fine. The truck turns over just fine and the motor is smooth when it runs just sounds like it has a miss and couldn't idle on it's own hopefully from the water in the distributor. I also cleaned the k&n and the afm. I'll also spray down all my connections with wd40. Hopefully all will be well.
I'm praying it is all ok and would appreciate prayers from everyone else too.
I got a little too overzealous with my new runner/first 4wd definately learned my lesson though.
Last edited by PirateMcgee; 11-10-2008 at 11:31 AM.
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11-10-2008, 05:31 PM
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Man, that sucks you went through all that trouble. The very very very first thing you check if the motor dies or just starts running rough after experiencing some water is to pull the distributor cap.
9 times out of 10 you'll find moisture in it which prevents good arcs so the motor misses or wont run at all.
With a 22RE, check the airbox for water as well. And if your in the field wheeln and do almost, or get water in the motor, pull the plugs, crank it, put em back in.. fire it up.
Dielectric grease on all the important electric connections helps to.
anyway, next time, just pull the cap. I've never seen or known someone whos hydrolocked a motor from what you described (hittn the puddle to hard)... usually takes a good submersion of the intake or nice splash up in the motor bay.
11-10-2008, 05:36 PM
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Btw, don't let this keep ya from water/mud. You just need to understand what can happen as a result of playing in the stuff and be prepared for it. I freaked out the first time my rig died out in the sticks. Took an hour before I figured out to pull the distributor cap off, was full of water droplets.
Also, should consider repacking the front wheel bearings after everytime you submerge the hubs. It's a PITA just cuz it takes a few hours and isn't fun but critical. After eating bearings a few times from not taking the time to do it I've just made it part of the fun =)
I'll be doing just that tomorrow! ... truck sat in some nasty stuff for awhile other day
and after stuff like this
Have fun!
Also, should consider repacking the front wheel bearings after everytime you submerge the hubs. It's a PITA just cuz it takes a few hours and isn't fun but critical. After eating bearings a few times from not taking the time to do it I've just made it part of the fun =)
I'll be doing just that tomorrow! ... truck sat in some nasty stuff for awhile other day
and after stuff like this
Have fun!
Last edited by drew303; 11-10-2008 at 05:39 PM.
11-10-2008, 05:54 PM
#10
I second the suggestion of water in the the distributer. High voltage is quite susceptible to shorting due to water.
I think you would need to have the headlights dip below the surface (or below the "bow wake") in order to actually hydrolock it.
I wouldn't be surprised if you hydrolocked at around idle speed, if there was no ill effect more times than not.
I think you would need to have the headlights dip below the surface (or below the "bow wake") in order to actually hydrolock it.
I wouldn't be surprised if you hydrolocked at around idle speed, if there was no ill effect more times than not.
11-10-2008, 10:44 PM
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water came out of the throttle body when I pulled the intake tube after it happend so I definately got water in there but since it was only a splash over the hood and not a total submersion I imagine not too much water got in the engine and the fact my oil is only 1/2qt over filled now.
Anyways I drained the oil this evening and pulled the filter and I'm going to let it sit over night to drain. I also poured 2qts through to rinse some junk out.
Anyways I drained the oil this evening and pulled the filter and I'm going to let it sit over night to drain. I also poured 2qts through to rinse some junk out.
11-11-2008, 09:40 AM
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finished it up this morning and it runs fine wooohooo hopefully after I change the oil again there will be no more water in the oil and hopefully everything else will be good....
11-12-2008, 05:37 AM
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Ok truck runs fine but blows a lot of white smoke and is eating coolant......
So what do you guys think bhg? Cracked head? Cracked block? Going to do a compression check what should I look for?
So what do you guys think bhg? Cracked head? Cracked block? Going to do a compression check what should I look for?
11-12-2008, 08:13 AM
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I believe a safe range for the compression in cylinders should be like 120-150? Correct me if I am way off.
11-12-2008, 11:18 AM
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Any coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant?
If you did hydrolock it, a cracked block, head, or blown head gasket are all possible. Any of which can produce low numbers on a compression test. Usually the head gasket is the culprit as it's the weakest point. Not always, but in most cases. The fact that it seems to be running okay also points to BHG over a crack in the block or head. Still, you can't be positive until you tear into it. I'm putting my $$ on a BHG.
There is no perfect number on a compression test. Ideally, somewhere in the 140+ range is best. Brand new, the compression is in the 170s but considered serviceable to 140. The important figure is what is the range of the compression in each cylinder. You want the lowest number to be within 10% +/- of the highest number. So if the highest number is 160, the lowest shouldn't be less than 144. If the discrepancy is higher, the cylinder needs attention.
Probably wouldn't hurt to do a wet and dry test to test the rings. If pouring a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder improves the compression, you've got a ring problem as well. You'll of course want to wait until after you've done the dry test to poor the oil into the cylinder.
Hydrolock can damage the rings.
If the compression test shows a problem, take it to a garage to do a leak-down test. That can confirm the BHG or another problem.
Remember when doing a compression test...
Warm engine (if possible)
Remove all plugs
Floor the accelerator when turning the engine
Turn it over 4-5 times each
keep us posted
If you did hydrolock it, a cracked block, head, or blown head gasket are all possible. Any of which can produce low numbers on a compression test. Usually the head gasket is the culprit as it's the weakest point. Not always, but in most cases. The fact that it seems to be running okay also points to BHG over a crack in the block or head. Still, you can't be positive until you tear into it. I'm putting my $$ on a BHG.
There is no perfect number on a compression test. Ideally, somewhere in the 140+ range is best. Brand new, the compression is in the 170s but considered serviceable to 140. The important figure is what is the range of the compression in each cylinder. You want the lowest number to be within 10% +/- of the highest number. So if the highest number is 160, the lowest shouldn't be less than 144. If the discrepancy is higher, the cylinder needs attention.
Probably wouldn't hurt to do a wet and dry test to test the rings. If pouring a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder improves the compression, you've got a ring problem as well. You'll of course want to wait until after you've done the dry test to poor the oil into the cylinder.
Hydrolock can damage the rings.If the compression test shows a problem, take it to a garage to do a leak-down test. That can confirm the BHG or another problem.
Remember when doing a compression test...
Warm engine (if possible)
Remove all plugs
Floor the accelerator when turning the engine
Turn it over 4-5 times each
keep us posted
Last edited by chewie1014; 11-12-2008 at 11:22 AM.
11-12-2008, 11:51 AM
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Any coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant?
If you did hydrolock it, a cracked block, head, or blown head gasket are all possible. Any of which can produce low numbers on a compression test. Usually the head gasket is the culprit as it's the weakest point. Not always, but in most cases. The fact that it seems to be running okay also points to BHG over a crack in the block or head. Still, you can't be positive until you tear into it. I'm putting my $$ on a BHG.
There is no perfect number on a compression test. Ideally, somewhere in the 140+ range is best. Brand new, the compression is in the 170s but considered serviceable to 140. The important figure is what is the range of the compression in each cylinder. You want the lowest number to be within 10% +/- of the highest number. So if the highest number is 160, the lowest shouldn't be less than 144. If the discrepancy is higher, the cylinder needs attention.
Probably wouldn't hurt to do a wet and dry test to test the rings. If pouring a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder improves the compression, you've got a ring problem as well. You'll of course want to wait until after you've done the dry test to poor the oil into the cylinder. Hydrolock can damage the rings.
If the compression test shows a problem, take it to a garage to do a leak-down test. That can confirm the BHG or another problem.
Remember when doing a compression test...
Warm engine (if possible)
Remove all plugs
Floor the accelerator when turning the engine
Turn it over 4-5 times each
keep us posted
If you did hydrolock it, a cracked block, head, or blown head gasket are all possible. Any of which can produce low numbers on a compression test. Usually the head gasket is the culprit as it's the weakest point. Not always, but in most cases. The fact that it seems to be running okay also points to BHG over a crack in the block or head. Still, you can't be positive until you tear into it. I'm putting my $$ on a BHG.
There is no perfect number on a compression test. Ideally, somewhere in the 140+ range is best. Brand new, the compression is in the 170s but considered serviceable to 140. The important figure is what is the range of the compression in each cylinder. You want the lowest number to be within 10% +/- of the highest number. So if the highest number is 160, the lowest shouldn't be less than 144. If the discrepancy is higher, the cylinder needs attention.
Probably wouldn't hurt to do a wet and dry test to test the rings. If pouring a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder improves the compression, you've got a ring problem as well. You'll of course want to wait until after you've done the dry test to poor the oil into the cylinder.
Hydrolock can damage the rings.If the compression test shows a problem, take it to a garage to do a leak-down test. That can confirm the BHG or another problem.
Remember when doing a compression test...
Warm engine (if possible)
Remove all plugs
Floor the accelerator when turning the engine
Turn it over 4-5 times each
keep us posted
I don't plan on warming it up though since I don't want to run coolant through my engine any more than needed.
The smoke does not smell like oil what so ever so I don't think it's a ring problem. I plan on doing compression test tomorrow and also pressurizing the coolant system with the spark plugs out then turning it over to see which cylinder blows out coolant. The engine runs like it has no issues except that the massive amount of coolant it's getting makes it unable to idle correctly. It went through 3/4 of a gallon of coolant while running less than 30min.
Oh well at least these trucks are easy to work on.... I should be able to pull the head and replace the head gasket within a weekend easily.
11-12-2008, 03:35 PM
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Compression should be high since it's only got 15k on the engine....
I don't plan on warming it up though since I don't want to run coolant through my engine any more than needed.
The smoke does not smell like oil what so ever so I don't think it's a ring problem. I plan on doing compression test tomorrow and also pressurizing the coolant system with the spark plugs out then turning it over to see which cylinder blows out coolant. The engine runs like it has no issues except that the massive amount of coolant it's getting makes it unable to idle correctly. It went through 3/4 of a gallon of coolant while running less than 30min.
Oh well at least these trucks are easy to work on.... I should be able to pull the head and replace the head gasket within a weekend easily.
I don't plan on warming it up though since I don't want to run coolant through my engine any more than needed.
The smoke does not smell like oil what so ever so I don't think it's a ring problem. I plan on doing compression test tomorrow and also pressurizing the coolant system with the spark plugs out then turning it over to see which cylinder blows out coolant. The engine runs like it has no issues except that the massive amount of coolant it's getting makes it unable to idle correctly. It went through 3/4 of a gallon of coolant while running less than 30min.
Oh well at least these trucks are easy to work on.... I should be able to pull the head and replace the head gasket within a weekend easily.
11-13-2008, 10:24 AM
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