Yodanuty

I have a 86 4Runner 22re 5-speed I did a engine change on. I'm going to start at the begaining... old engine blew a head gasket instead of putting money into a engine that needed other work I bought a low mileage replacement. The truck still ran and drove when I pulled it into the shop to change engines. I took intake injectors and dizzy from old engine put them onto the new one. The engine was different and plus I have aftermarket injectors I wanted to keep anyways.

Ok fast forward to finally getting ready to start new engine. It fired right up and idled great. As I was letting it warm up I started to rev it up well TRIED to rev it up. Thinking I had wires somewhere some how mixed up I retraced everything and everything is in it rightful spot. So I started it again and CEL light was on and I also noticed the main wire going from battery to fuse box was super super hot I was surprised it did melt. So I shut it off and went home for the night.

Next morning I starting it up but battery was dead (strange as it's brand new) so I hooked up the charger got it started and the alternator went up in smoke!! Ugh. I replaced the alternator and no more hot wire issues. But it still won't rev up let alone drive. And before you say TPS I have checked it and tried and checked a couple more that all checked out fine. CEL say codes 7 and 12. So I started more research and tried to test the TPS pins on the ECU and I get zero reading of any sort at the ecu. I have tried another ECU and still get the exact same results as original one.

I have no clue as to what is going on here. I have also noticed the brake light and the charge light don't stay on when you turn the key on. They don't stay on until it's started like normal. Also my clutch cancel button engages and stays engaged. All this also used to work properly. I've been going at this problem for 3 weeks now. I've tried finding the answers online and searching after searching to no real help. I thought I'd make my first post here a good one for all the really smart Toyota guys. Please anyone have any sort of input or help at all I'm in dire need of my truck back ASAP. Thank you in advance!!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I really wish people would type posts you can read !!

Do you have the The Toyota Electrical Wiring Diagrams for your truck??

When you swapped in this used engine you used all the harness from your truck??

In other words just the naked long block was installed

Tell us more about this used engine just what year was it??

Yodanuty

Yes I have the electrical wiring diagrams. Yes just the long block was use. I have no idea what year the new engine is I do know it came out of a 2wd truck.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The motors are all the same. It is all the other things you have to add from one year to the next. 86 wiring is considerably different from the newer years. Move everything from the old motor to the new motor. There are so many variances. I am thinking you have a wire hooked up incorrectly some where.

Yodanuty

I did change everything from the old engine to the replacement.

Charchee

Test for continuity between the TPS and the ECM. You said you checked the TPS so assuming it's good and you have no data getting to the ecm, that's the first thing I would do. Are you sure you didn't cook any fuses or relays when your alternator did it's little overcharging act? You may have burned your battery as well. Check your system voltage in several places. A battery that has been overcharged will often show you good voltage at the posts but not deliver adequate amps down the line. My 89 has (had) a fusible link in the wire to the fuse box. I suppose you could have partially burned the link which would greatly restrict your power to the circuits. How do your headlights look when they are on? Are they as bright as they were before?

Yodanuty

I did check voltage for the VTA pin at the ECM and I had no reading at all. Everything works the same as in the headlights and everything else. I checked all the fuses and eve tore the harness apart looking for bad wires. im getting very frustrated and am running out of time to get this fixed as it is my dd. Anyone from Michigan want to come check it out I'll pay ya!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Might be as simple as some corroded connections Things check good with the Meter but when plugged together fail to make a good connection

Something else to look for is bent pins in the connectors it can happen quite easy

Something connected wrong be it electrical or vacuum .

Did you change the fuel filter before installing the other engine ??

Have you heard this engine run or done a compression test ??

It would not be the first time someone bought a low mileage boat anchor

Yodanuty

I have checked the connections and both ends of the plugs everything is fine there. I did not hear the engine run but it came from a good friend that bought it for his truck but the frame gave out so he abandoned the project and I bought everything from him. Fuel filter has been changed. This thing will start right up idle great sounds great rev to around 2-2500 rpm and I even drove it home from the shop. Granted I was only able to go about 30 mph.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Been sitting awhile Rodents love to build nests exhaust manifolds intake manifolds

Yodanuty

Intake and header are off the engine I pulled out and there wasn't anything in aeither one I took off. It's a electrical issue of some sort. There no feed going to the TPS or coming from the TPS.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

My engine starts and runs with the TPS disconnected

Not perfect but enough to drive home or to work if needed.

Did you maybe crush some wires in the changing of engines ??

Charchee

Wyoming is right. They will run in open loop mode with any number of disconnected components. You could be looking at a two unrelated problems. You did cook your electrical system a little with the overcharging issue but your engine performance issue may be unrelated. You did just take loose every air sealing gasket, vacuum hose and throttle linkage when you did the swap. I'm sure you know what you are doing and I'm not saying you did something wrong. Just, for now, take the electrical end of it out of your mind and look for a mechanical or air leak issue. Track down all your vacuum lines and spray a little starting fluid or butane around the engine compartment and listen for an increase in RPM. Check that your throttle cable is adjusted properly. Rule those things out as best you can and then go back to your electrical problem.

I can't get to my cheat sheet right now. What were the descriptions of the two codes you read of the CEL? I'm sure one was TPS but what was the other one?

Yodanuty

Thank you all for the input!!! The guy that was helping me check the electrical end of things learned not to buy a cheap multimeter again!! I brought mine home from work and wouldn't you know...everything electrical checked out fine on both ends. So after calming down some I pulled the valve cover to check the timing chain marks. Sure as ˟˟˟˟ she jumped timing!!! The guide broke and well we all know what happens after that lol. I'm sorry for waisting everyone's time and feel like crap for doing so!!! I'm under way of doing the timing chain now. I will report back and let y'all know how it goes. Sure hope it's the only thing wrong I got way more to do to the truck!! Thanks again everyone!!!!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

So in fact your low mileage engine was indeed a Boat Anchor !!!

After you were positive you got such a good deal.

Glad you did find what it was but shame on you for buying a engine without a look under the valve cover!!

Some lessons are expensive to learn

Cale Moody

Preach on, preacher man...

Yodanuty

Nope not a boat anchor at all and yes the first enitional check under the valve cover everything was fine!! So not sure what caused it but it happen and that's that. Thanks again.

millball

If it jumped time, have the head looked at.

I found all 4 intake valves bent in my new orphan.