Please Help: I pooched my Torsion Bolts
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Please Help: I pooched my Torsion Bolts
So my front is sitting about 2 inches higher than the back, sassy arse syndrome the other SAS i guess. So i get some new torsion adjusting bolts and nuts. I figure it will be a quick swap to put the new ones in. I read all the time that people break them so i figure I'll just cut mine off, Its a rust bucket from canada.
I cut the part of the bolt above the nuts off and grind the bolt head off, figuring I can just punch it through. But now I can't move the bolt, I've tried hammering on it, jacking up the front, driving it up the curb, jumping on the front. Is there something else holding it in or just rust? If I poke my finger in the hole by the bolt there seems to be something on the lowest part of the anchor arm where the bolt goes through, is this holding it in place? How bad did I screw up? What can I do?
Need Help ASAP!!!
I cut the part of the bolt above the nuts off and grind the bolt head off, figuring I can just punch it through. But now I can't move the bolt, I've tried hammering on it, jacking up the front, driving it up the curb, jumping on the front. Is there something else holding it in or just rust? If I poke my finger in the hole by the bolt there seems to be something on the lowest part of the anchor arm where the bolt goes through, is this holding it in place? How bad did I screw up? What can I do?
Need Help ASAP!!!
Last edited by River_Rat; 11-28-2008 at 10:44 AM.
#4
Contributing Member
I believe he's trying to say that he bought the new bolts incase the old bolts broke while trying to adjust the torsion bars...
what year? IIRC, the 2nd gen PUs and 1st gen runners had nuts on the back, maybe those are rusted up too and keeping things locked up? I dunno, on my 91 all I did was turn mine no problem, sorry man
good luck though
what year? IIRC, the 2nd gen PUs and 1st gen runners had nuts on the back, maybe those are rusted up too and keeping things locked up? I dunno, on my 91 all I did was turn mine no problem, sorry man
good luck though
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah thanks. Its a 1987 4runner, 4WD. It has the lock nut nad the big nut. Guess my only option is to try to push it through now. Any other ideas?
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the heads up goat, I usually try to keep my digits. Is it safer to keep the front end on stands while I do this, take some of the pressure off? Maybe someone who has broken a bolt can help. I'm at a loss, I feel as though I have put myself in both a difficult and dangerous situation.
Saitotiktmdog where are you?
Saitotiktmdog where are you?
Trending Topics
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks again goat. By 'full droop' I'm assuming you mean front frame up on stands with the tires hanging?
Is there usually anything holding the bolt other than the nuts on top? anyone? if there isn't then this is some strong rust I'm dealing with.
Is there usually anything holding the bolt other than the nuts on top? anyone? if there isn't then this is some strong rust I'm dealing with.
#10
Contributing Member
Correct, front end up on jack stands would do it. My 93 is the newer style so I'm not sure about your's. Is that a pic of the top or the bottom?
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The picture is where the head of the bolt used to be the bottom of the truck. Looking at my manual it seems like your 1993 and my 1987 have a very similar set up. Thanks.
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks ol' Harley,
Thats what I figured and had actually already started to do, but didn't get too far before buring out my drill bit. Must be Grade 5 or 8 bolts in there, better than the replacement ones I bought.
What is the suggestion on drill bit type for this job? and process? Never had to do it with such a big strong bolt before. I was thinking if I could get a hole saw just bigger than the bolt, it might work well, but don't know what to buy. What would you do?
Also what is going to happen when this bolt finally 'lets go'? ? I hope not.
Thats what I figured and had actually already started to do, but didn't get too far before buring out my drill bit. Must be Grade 5 or 8 bolts in there, better than the replacement ones I bought.
What is the suggestion on drill bit type for this job? and process? Never had to do it with such a big strong bolt before. I was thinking if I could get a hole saw just bigger than the bolt, it might work well, but don't know what to buy. What would you do?
Also what is going to happen when this bolt finally 'lets go'? ? I hope not.
#15
Contributing Member
Use a drill bit one size down from the bolt and be sure it is made of TITANIUM or better so it will last and cut also rememeber the slower you drill the more materal it will remove faster and not burn up your bit as fast cause sounds like you need it to last through two bolts.
Once you have them drilled out you should be able to use a tap to clean out the remaining part of the bolts and it will come out real easy so no neeed to force the tap , most likely will crumple as you turn the tap inside the walls of the bolt that remain.
Once you have them drilled out you should be able to use a tap to clean out the remaining part of the bolts and it will come out real easy so no neeed to force the tap , most likely will crumple as you turn the tap inside the walls of the bolt that remain.
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Harley,
But what is going to happen when this thing finally releases, it is obviously under a lot of spring pressure and a was reading that they can shoot through the floorboard when broken.
What precautions should I be taking here?
But what is going to happen when this thing finally releases, it is obviously under a lot of spring pressure and a was reading that they can shoot through the floorboard when broken.
What precautions should I be taking here?
#17
In that picture you have, it looks like the head of the bolt isn't ground off all the way. BTW, that's a long bolt, so if you plan on getting out the top, which looks like your only option at this point, you're going to have to jack the body of the truck up a bunch.
You probably want to try to cut/grind the top of the bolt/nut at the top so it's not so bad. The nut has a long body to to that's about twice as long as the exposed part sitting on top of the torsion bar mount. If you cut/grind that off, you'll only have like 5" of bolt to try to pull out the top once you've ground off that head.
You probably want to try to cut/grind the top of the bolt/nut at the top so it's not so bad. The nut has a long body to to that's about twice as long as the exposed part sitting on top of the torsion bar mount. If you cut/grind that off, you'll only have like 5" of bolt to try to pull out the top once you've ground off that head.
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Temecula Valley, CA
Posts: 12,723
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
The truck SHOULD BE on jack stands. should've been on stands already!!! ... but since you're still alive we'll forgive you this time. Without stands, imagine how far the frame will fall until the upper control arm stops it....
I'm gonna agree and say there is 'still' enough of the bolt head to keep things tight.
#19
Thinking about it again, if you cut off the top of the bolt/nut assembly, and then finish grinding the head off the bolt, you may be able to use a cut off wheel to cut the bolt once it pops. It might move around too much, and I know it's tight in there, you may need to borrow a 7" or 9" grinder with cutoff wheel to reach it.
#20
Registered User
i would put the truck on jack stands and remove the spindle or atleast drop the ball joints to insure there shouldn't be any tension on the t-bar. when you try to drill that sucker out. i think i woulda gone the impact wrench and lots of penetration oil before trying to cut the head off.