T4L

I've searched and I've dropped a line on another thread to no avail. I'm having some Pitman arm issues.

T4L

I was told I couldn't get my 4Runner aligned because it needed a new Idler Arm and a new Pitman Arm. The shop quoted me something over $400 for the parts/labor, I said no-thanks. I picked up an Idler arm and swapped out the old one...piece of cake. The Pitman Arm had to be ordered and was expected next day. I picked it up along with a puller and got to work. Broke that puller and messed up that whole day(yesterday). Today, went back to the parts store, exchanged the pitman arm puller, went back home and got to work. Finally got the old pitman arm off, put the new one on and tightened every thing down and found a problem.

The castle nut threads too far up on the stud so that the cotter pin is useless. If I try and remove the part, I'll damage it and be stuck with the cost. Could I use a nut, torqued to spec, to push the castle nut out far enough that it engages with the cotter pin?

I've been trying to get this 4Runner roadworthy all week. I need it for a camping trip this weekend.

I'm broke and frustrated and don't know if I've fixed my vehicle or just made it worse.

If I'm just an idiot...flame away, just do it constructively

one2high

Why not redrill the hole with a carbide drill and install the cotter pin? You could then carefully cut the excess off and touch it up with a small grinder.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

do you still have the original castle nut? If yes check the hieght maybe it'll work. if it will, try having a shop use air tools to bust it loose. Or pick up some air tools and bust off the nut that way. If that doesnt work, you may be able to get away with a stack of washers.... but i think that the pitman arm you picked up may be no good. (taiwan parts suck)

Matt16

I shimmed my idler arm with one washer to get it to sit in a position that the cotter pin engaged the castle nut.

I suppose you could get a second nut and thread in on first, torque it, then tighten the castle nut up against it and pin it. you could also drill a new hole. Its easy with a tiny pilot hole, then go to a larger bit.

T4L

Here is what I did. The old/new castle nuts were different sizes, but the same thread, so I used them both. I torqued the 1st one to spec then added the 2nd w/ cotter pin.

I hope I don't get laughed out of the alignment shop.

Matt16

Structurally, there isn't anything wrong with that. if you're broke, why don't you align the truck yourself? Search "driveway alignment", I did a writeup.

Ardent

Well, now you have the added benefit of a double-nut! Better than it being too short and not being able to put the pin in at all!

T4L

I considered that.......these are all 1st time repairs and are a little intimidating at first. I havn't ruled it out.....need to look it over some more. I'm learning as I go. Also, I'm the one at home with the kids while the wife works so time is always against me.

T4L

Alignment complete (performed at a garage), steering wheel is straight, I am happy(ier) now. My double castle nut solution raised no eyebrows or questions. I'm going camping and trout fishing. Have a good weekend folks.