pntbol11

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

I'm rebuilding my '86 fuel injected 22RE and I had a few questions. The block has been prepped, de-glazed etc. and now I'm reassembling it.

1. I checked the oil gap on the mains when I installed the crank and it came out to .001 inch. This is the tightest the book allows for my motor. After applying moly lube and torquing to 76 ft/lbs (using the inner to outer method by the book) the crank does not seem to want to rotate by hand. Is it just because there's a very tight oil clearance on the mains and the moly lube makes it snug? I did use a good bit of it just to be safe.

2. I cannot seem to get the pistons in. I have already bent two lower rings and had to order another set. The block is bored .40 over. I'm using one of those installation tools form advance that tightens around it like a sleeve. It doesn't compress tightly enough to fit down in the cylinder. Doesn't anyone have any tips or tricks that work with the 22RE's?

HighLux

I think you need to get someone over that knows whats up. Or let the machine shop assemble the shortblock for you.

Never a good idea to assemble your first shortblock alone without a guide.

SoCal4Running

I've never had a crank that tight, both in clearance and force required to turn it. It could just be the clearance though.

Do you have a micrometer to measure to bore?
With out rings will the pistons fit in the holes?
Is there a .40 stamped on the pistons?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

If your ring compressor is not the correct size it won`t work

It has been awhile since I installed pistons.

If you had machine work done I would have let the machine shop install the pistons.

Your saying your crank does not spin free with out the pistons in yet??

So many parts boxed wrong sold by people that have no idea what they are or even what they do.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Did you take a new piston to the machine shop when they bored it? A GOOD machine shop won't just bore an engine 40 over, they will bore it to match pistons that are 40 over. This ensures a perfect fit of the pistons in the cylinders and maximizes ring efficiency and longevity.

If you have a cheap ring compressor then you are better off trying to install them without it. Get quality tools to do the job right.

For your crank issue, did you take the crank journal caps to the machine shop when they bored it? Again a GOOD machine shop will not do any cylinder work with out the crank caps. The caps help maintain the geometry of the block while doing the machine work. Remember, being just the smallest amount off can lead to big problems. Is this a new crank, a machined crank or what? The crank could be bent which would result in difficulty in turning. Also, Your journals may be within spec for oil clearence, but they might not be aligned (again, taking your caps to the machine shop to check for journal alignment) thus causing difficulty turning. And why are you trying to drop in your pistons if you know that your crank isn't turning freely?? You asking for disaster

You need to provide more information if you want better answers.
-where did you get your pistons, rings, bearing, etc?
-new or reman crank.
-what EXACTLY did the machine shop do?
-what parts did you take to the machine shop?
-why are you rebuilding anyway? what was wrong with the engine to initiate the rebuild?
-is this your first rebuild?

pntbol11

iTrader: (1)

It's a re-ring job. I had the machine shop check the block and they tanked it and checked the surfaces and said it looked good. I had them measure the crank as well. They told me I needed

mains- .50 mm
rods- 1 mm
rings- 1 mm

I'm reusing the pistons. They were in good shape. 1.00 mm is stamped on them so I know they're the right size. I checked the end gap on every ring and they're in spec.

As stated earlier the the oil clearance on the main journal came out to .001 inch.

Also, I checked the stamp on the bearings. They're correct.

As far as the piston ring installer it's a universal ring clamp style from Advance Auto. If somebody knows of a better tool let me know.

I've been working on trucks specifically Toyota's for years. Including motor swaps axle work etc. so I consider myself pretty competent. I just want to find some possible solutions.

pntbol11

iTrader: (1)

@ Kawazx636

1. Yes this is my first time this deep into a motor but certainly not my first time taking one apart.
2.I'm reusing the old pistons. I brought the block with the caps bolted in the proper order to the block, the piston/rod assemblies, the block itself, and the head to my local machine shop. I told them to check everything out. They.....
a. tanked the block and inspected the surfaces/bore etc. I honed the block myself with a flexhone.
b. inspected/measured the crank
c. inspected the rods/pistons
d. cleaned the head and replaced a valve
e. nothing was machined
3.The crank was new when the past rebuild was performed 3 years ago.
4. I ordered the a re-ring kit (rods, mains, rings, thrust washers and a gasket set) from Northern Auto parts. mains and rings and thrust washers are Sealed Power. Rods are Clevite
5.As far as why? Well the rings failed. I was getting a lot of smoke in the exhaust and when I did a compression test I proved it. (Low compression---add oil-----compression increase)

BTW: This is just a quick fix to get the truck back on the road again. I'm just buying a little time so I can do a more involved build later.

Like I said. Is .001 an inch too tight of a clearance for the mains. My haynes manual gives a range of .001 to .0022 I did use a healthy amount of molylube.

pntbol11

iTrader: (1)

Could this be an issue with the trust washers?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

1 mm rings? You should have just bought 40 over rings

If it is just a re-ring then why did you pull the crank?

Did you get new crank bearings or reuse the old ones? If you reused them, did you put them back in the journal they originally came out of?

Did you have the bore honed after it was hot tanked? Was it hot tanked with the journal caps on?

Even though your oil clearence may be correct, if the journals or crank are out of alignment you'll have rotational issues. I would check out the runout of the crankshaft before You do anything else.

What symptoms were you having that prompted this re-ring?

pntbol11

iTrader: (1)

I got new main and rod bearings thrust washers and rings as stated in my previous post. Sorry I meant to say 1mm. The pistons and bore are matched 1mm oversize. So i bought 1mm rings.

Yes as said earlier I honed the block myself with a flexhone brand ball hone.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

I'll be honest with you, after everything you said you have done, you would have been better off buying a full rebuild kit from engnbldr for around $280 and known that all of your parts were correct and compatible. To further complicate the matter, you are very vague in describing your parts and process, using different units of measurements, excluding pertainent information and editting old posts. I am pretty good at diagnosing lower end problems but you've got me lost on this one

pntbol11

iTrader: (1)

No problem man. I'm pretty sure I figured it out. Thanks for the quick responses.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

My suggestion to you for the crank:
1-check the thrust washer clearence as assembled now, if that is good;
2-remove each cap and double check the bearing clearence, if that is good;
3-remove the crank and have the runout checked to ensure the crank is straight, if that is good;
4-check the runout on each journal on the crank, if that is good;
5-have the crank journals on the block checked for alignment, if that is good then;
6-throughly clean everything and reassemble. The is no need to over lube everything with moly lube. I typically just use my finger to swipe a very thin layer of lube on both surfaces.

My suggestion to you for the pistons:
1-figure out the crank problem FIRST!!!!
2-double check the ring gap. I'm not sure how you checked them originally, but the proper way to do it is by placing them in the actual bore and taking the measurement with your feeler gauges.
3-have your hone job checked. If you don't know what you are doing it is really easy to screw up a bore. It looks simple, but takes the right equipment and the proper touch to do it right.
4-get a GOOD ring compressor and your should be good to go.

pntbol11

iTrader: (1)

Ok cool. I'm pretty sure the issue is with the thrust wAshers. I don't think they're seated properly.

1. That's how I checked the ring gap. I used a piston to push them down into the bore and inserted a feeler gauge in the gap.
2. I'm ordering a single size taper compressor from summit.