Pickup Bed Tire Mount DIY
04-13-2009, 04:40 AM
#1
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Pickup Bed Tire Mount DIY
I've been wanting a tire mount for my full size spare for a while now, but could not afford the $$$ for a Fabtech, etc.. I had a few parts lying around, and came up with this one. Overall cost in hardware, approx. $50.
Here's all the hardware:
4 - 1/2" x 7" bolts w/nuts
1/2" threaded rod w 4 nuts, 4 washers and 2 nylon lock nuts
8 - 3/8" bolts, washers and nuts for the bed (I used 12 extra washers to flush the 2 rear brackets).
2 - 12mm x 1.50 lug nuts
2 - 12mm x 1.50 wheel studs
4 - 1/4" x 2" bolts, nuts and washers
4 - 3/4" Adjustable Clevis pins and washers
4 - Hair Pin cotters
Here are the rest of the materials:
4 - suspension arms (I got these from the rear end of a Ford Escort)
2 - 6" x 9" x 3/16" steel plate
1 - 4" x 9" x 3/16" steel plate
4 - 6" lengths of 1" box steel
4 - 4" lengths of 2" angle iron
As seen in the pictures above, I drilled four 3/8" holes on the outside corners of the larger plates, and through the longer arms. I also drilled four 1/2" holes in the center of one of the larger plates, and into the smaller plate. On the smaller plate, I drilled two more 2" holes 5 1/2" apart for the wheel studs. The studs have splines, so I ground out the remainder, so they could be hammered into place.
I bolted the top and bottom plates together, using the long 1/2" bolts and nuts, sandwiching the 1" box steel in between (the wheel studs are visible here).
Next, I ran the 1/2" threaded rod through the "tops" of the arms, with washers and nuts on the inside. I also bolted the bottom plate through the arms and to the top assembly as shown.
I slid the outer arms onto the threaded rod, and fastened it with two more 1/2" nuts, washers and the lock nuts.
I bolted the 4 brackets to the bed, and attached the mount with the clevis pins and cotters.
The tire mounts to the top with the 2 lug nuts (I initially used bolts, but didn't want to have to carry a 19mm socket with me everywhere).
This design allows me to un hook the front arms and lay the tire flat. It also allows me to completely remove the mount.
The finished product:
Some thoughts after the build:
1. Although the mount is fairly solid, it may still rattle (washers and pins). I haven't road tested it yet. I hoped that the bushings that were in the arms would help with absorbing some of the shock.
2. The mount to the tire is a little taller than I'd like. Since I'll never run more than a 12.5" wide tire, I may shorten the box steel, so the tire rests on the rear arms. This would help minimize the minor wobble that it has.
3. The brackets obviously stay in the bed when the mount is removed. I thought making some kind of plate to put over them, should I need to use the full bed.
4. And yes, it is bolted to the bed, which means 8 more holes in it. I painted the holes over with bed liner after they were drilled, to minimize the risk of rust.
Here's all the hardware:
4 - 1/2" x 7" bolts w/nuts
1/2" threaded rod w 4 nuts, 4 washers and 2 nylon lock nuts
8 - 3/8" bolts, washers and nuts for the bed (I used 12 extra washers to flush the 2 rear brackets).
2 - 12mm x 1.50 lug nuts
2 - 12mm x 1.50 wheel studs
4 - 1/4" x 2" bolts, nuts and washers
4 - 3/4" Adjustable Clevis pins and washers
4 - Hair Pin cotters
Here are the rest of the materials:
4 - suspension arms (I got these from the rear end of a Ford Escort)
2 - 6" x 9" x 3/16" steel plate
1 - 4" x 9" x 3/16" steel plate
4 - 6" lengths of 1" box steel
4 - 4" lengths of 2" angle iron
As seen in the pictures above, I drilled four 3/8" holes on the outside corners of the larger plates, and through the longer arms. I also drilled four 1/2" holes in the center of one of the larger plates, and into the smaller plate. On the smaller plate, I drilled two more 2" holes 5 1/2" apart for the wheel studs. The studs have splines, so I ground out the remainder, so they could be hammered into place.
I bolted the top and bottom plates together, using the long 1/2" bolts and nuts, sandwiching the 1" box steel in between (the wheel studs are visible here).
Next, I ran the 1/2" threaded rod through the "tops" of the arms, with washers and nuts on the inside. I also bolted the bottom plate through the arms and to the top assembly as shown.
I slid the outer arms onto the threaded rod, and fastened it with two more 1/2" nuts, washers and the lock nuts.
I bolted the 4 brackets to the bed, and attached the mount with the clevis pins and cotters.
The tire mounts to the top with the 2 lug nuts (I initially used bolts, but didn't want to have to carry a 19mm socket with me everywhere).
This design allows me to un hook the front arms and lay the tire flat. It also allows me to completely remove the mount.
The finished product:
Some thoughts after the build:
1. Although the mount is fairly solid, it may still rattle (washers and pins). I haven't road tested it yet. I hoped that the bushings that were in the arms would help with absorbing some of the shock.
2. The mount to the tire is a little taller than I'd like. Since I'll never run more than a 12.5" wide tire, I may shorten the box steel, so the tire rests on the rear arms. This would help minimize the minor wobble that it has.
3. The brackets obviously stay in the bed when the mount is removed. I thought making some kind of plate to put over them, should I need to use the full bed.
4. And yes, it is bolted to the bed, which means 8 more holes in it. I painted the holes over with bed liner after they were drilled, to minimize the risk of rust.
04-13-2009, 06:24 AM
#2
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looks good! I've always liked the looked of spare mounts like that in the beds of trucks and often I have thought about puttin one in the back of my 4runner to see how it does.
05-03-2009, 08:51 AM
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Update
The tire mount has now been trail tested and worked great. The only noise it makes is the metal to metal ping of the 3/4" washers. Last night, I took it out, and have some plywood to put down over the brackets and put an air mattress up for the drive-in/camping. Was able to tear it down and put it all back together during intermission.
I'm still thinking about shortening the "hub" a little, but I'm concerned that if the tire contacts the lower arms, it'll squeak.
The tire mount has now been trail tested and worked great. The only noise it makes is the metal to metal ping of the 3/4" washers. Last night, I took it out, and have some plywood to put down over the brackets and put an air mattress up for the drive-in/camping. Was able to tear it down and put it all back together during intermission.
I'm still thinking about shortening the "hub" a little, but I'm concerned that if the tire contacts the lower arms, it'll squeak.
06-24-2009, 10:29 AM
#7
I like the spare mounted in the bed look. I would've done it a bit differently.
I would've used a rear hub and axle and use that as the mount then build the supporting frame around it. I'd have the tire mounted a little lower for a better view out the back window (I like to see all around).
I would've used a rear hub and axle and use that as the mount then build the supporting frame around it. I'd have the tire mounted a little lower for a better view out the back window (I like to see all around).
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02-16-2010, 04:08 PM
#10
Contributing Member
dude what meds where you on when you thought this up?
Bolts, nuts, washers, steels plates, and rear control arms off a Ford Escort?
That's some Macgyver stuff there man, lol
Bolts, nuts, washers, steels plates, and rear control arms off a Ford Escort?
That's some Macgyver stuff there man, lol
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