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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: ruffin, NC
Posts: 155
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performance mods
The 22re in my 86 needs some help so im ready to start with the modsand hopefully improve gas mileage as well(18mpg). Where do i go first? Air induction (which one),high flow cat, muffler, 2.25 exhaust, cam. Some of you guys already done these mods let me know where to start. Money is tight so wont be able to do it all at one time. Thanks for the input!!!
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89 Toyota 4runner-dlx-4cyl.AT,2.25 exhaust w/high flow cat and flowmaster-31x10.50x15 spector a/t fact. wheels new single stage paint,james dean creation stripe kit ,vinyl floor,spray in bedliner in rear cargo area FOR SALE |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 1,540
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Personally, I felt my biggest gains were from the exhaust mods, but I had already modded a bunch of other things first so it may have been that the exhaust mods simply allowed the others to perform better.
No matter what you do the 22re will still be a 22re. It will improve some, but it is still underpowered no matter what you do... That said, the following was copied from 4x4 Wire and is a great read... http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...5&o=14&fpart=1 Quote:
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'95 xcab 4x4 22re,3" BL, 4" Superlift, 1.5" BJ Spacers, 36x13.5 Iroks, M/T Classic Locks, 5.29's, Rear Lockright, J and C head with engnbldr O/S SS valves, RV springs, and Crane Stage 2 cam, Magnaflow 14" with 2.25" in and 2.5" out, NGK V-Power BPR6EY's, OBA with Viair 380C and a 3 gallon tank @ 180psi, Siege Engineering Train horns - Truck bought new in Dec. '94... My buildup thread: link '03 4runner V8 SR5 completely stock |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Staff
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: COTKU,Ontario,Canada
Posts: 5,307
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If cash is tight I'd start with the induction side, a drop in K&N air filter will give you a performance and economy boost and will save you money long term [no more air filters to buy] however if you have a little extra cash go for the cone filter kit for an even greater performance/mileage gain. The next step would be to go for a free flow cat/muffler and 2.25 exhaust system. If this is a daily driver for tires choose a good quality all-terrain truck tires like BFG ATs [their square profile looks fantastic under the old body style IMO] and the have good traction and puncture resistance. Mud tires have a lot of rolling resistance which kills fuel economy on the road.
A switch to synthetic oils at the next change will help too. Aviator
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Silver 1994 Hilux Xtra cab 4x4 3.0 K&N cone filter, ported MAF, advanced timing, oversize exhaust, free flow cat, "rumble" muffler custom covered SR5 seats, map lights, factory AC tv4184 style black interior conversion started mods to come... header, custom centre console, stereo upgrade tinted windows Founding member 1972TLC fan club Toyota Hilux... Get in or Get out of the way. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Alpine--GRASS valley, CA
Posts: 2,148
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header, intake, exhaust, doa head
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1994 toy 22re- http://www.yotatech.com/f86/nocalsvx-s-94-toy-104593/ 2006 Subaru Forester XT -some mods/awd 5spd 1994 Subaru SVX- hwy runner 84 RX7- drag car build |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Springs, Colorado
Posts: 1,717
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switch your diff and tranny fluids to syn. too, ive heard that when you do this Mileage goes up by 1-3 mpg. but ive never checked or done this. get a drop in k&n and mod your airbox, get a dynomax cat back, and a magnaflow cat. For best gains have everything welded, and then a lc header, and a lc cam. itll be a screamer.
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Last edited by Sonofmayhem : 09-01-2006 at 01:54 PM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
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my 22re i did a custom intake with a k&n fipk a lce header full 2.25'' exhaust with a carsound hiflow cat and a flowmaster delta 40 it had good power for having 167k miles on a stock motor im sure if you did some mild head work and a cam it help more
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: ruffin, NC
Posts: 155
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performance mods
I might sound like a dummy but what do you mean by "mod your air box."
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89 Toyota 4runner-dlx-4cyl.AT,2.25 exhaust w/high flow cat and flowmaster-31x10.50x15 spector a/t fact. wheels new single stage paint,james dean creation stripe kit ,vinyl floor,spray in bedliner in rear cargo area FOR SALE |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 1,540
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This is just my opinion of course, but to all of you guys recommending a K+N air filter you do realize that the gains are amazingly minimal and you are going to let a lot more dirt into your engine right?
You may add .5hp but that is subjective, but you will definitely let more dirt in. That is proven. They just aren't worth it.
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'95 xcab 4x4 22re,3" BL, 4" Superlift, 1.5" BJ Spacers, 36x13.5 Iroks, M/T Classic Locks, 5.29's, Rear Lockright, J and C head with engnbldr O/S SS valves, RV springs, and Crane Stage 2 cam, Magnaflow 14" with 2.25" in and 2.5" out, NGK V-Power BPR6EY's, OBA with Viair 380C and a 3 gallon tank @ 180psi, Siege Engineering Train horns - Truck bought new in Dec. '94... My buildup thread: link '03 4runner V8 SR5 completely stock |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Staff
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: COTKU,Ontario,Canada
Posts: 5,307
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I really have'nt noticed a lot of "dirt" getting in at all but then I don't wheel in sand as some folks with this issue do. Regardless my personal experiance has been totally positive with the K&N product much better than any stock paper type anyway.
Aviator
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Silver 1994 Hilux Xtra cab 4x4 3.0 K&N cone filter, ported MAF, advanced timing, oversize exhaust, free flow cat, "rumble" muffler custom covered SR5 seats, map lights, factory AC tv4184 style black interior conversion started mods to come... header, custom centre console, stereo upgrade tinted windows Founding member 1972TLC fan club Toyota Hilux... Get in or Get out of the way. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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They do let more dirt in, they also let more air in.. On a totally stock motor, I'd see no reason to do it, but if you're doing exhaust work, a mild cam, and maybe a little head work, it's a good place to pick up more than .5hp.
The filters are oiled for a reason... Oily dirt is a lot less harmful than dry dirt. Keep the filters clean regularly and oiled, I wouldn't expect it to be a problem.. The one down side to the FIPKs and cone filters - if you have any sort of mass air element that's open in the intake track, it's going to collect oily crap. I saw a 3.4L 4runner that ran lean simply because the FIPK crapped up one of the sensors.
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Springs, Colorado
Posts: 1,717
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its called an outerware Desert trucks use cone and giagantic filters... what i mean by mod your airbox, is when i took a look at mine, i removed a hose, and a shield and instantly felt power, but i sucked in water so next time ill add a snorkle. if they made foam filters i would get one.
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Last edited by Sonofmayhem : 09-01-2006 at 11:52 PM. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 1,540
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http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm
That's a good read for anyone that is comtemplating one of these filters...
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'95 xcab 4x4 22re,3" BL, 4" Superlift, 1.5" BJ Spacers, 36x13.5 Iroks, M/T Classic Locks, 5.29's, Rear Lockright, J and C head with engnbldr O/S SS valves, RV springs, and Crane Stage 2 cam, Magnaflow 14" with 2.25" in and 2.5" out, NGK V-Power BPR6EY's, OBA with Viair 380C and a 3 gallon tank @ 180psi, Siege Engineering Train horns - Truck bought new in Dec. '94... My buildup thread: link '03 4runner V8 SR5 completely stock |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: colorado
Posts: 305
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the nice thing about this site is that you're going to get a tons of info, personal favorites, etc. that you can use to research what you think works best for your type of driving.
the advice on fluids is right on. you have to change anyway, so when time comes look to a synthetic for everything--it'll cut friction. personally, i signed on for six months as an amsoil dealer and bought everything i'd need for a couple of years for the yota and my wife's jeep. saved tons. "wax on, wax off"--can't beat getting more air in, and speed the exhaust out. header is a must, but in the interests of $$, mod the air box first (i went with amsoil for the filter based on specs) and at least start with a 2.25 cat back. again, i chose a flowmaster 50 for performance and quiet highway running. but pick up a header ASAP--it's primary. ask for advice here, watch ebay, or buy outright. then get ready to drop some serious cash or spend some wrench time. but as these guys will tell ya, it's a labor of love. and their more than willing to help out with good, solid advice.
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1994 4x4 p/u 22re, eb 268 cam, nwor headers, 2.25 w/ flowmaster 50, airbox mod + amsoil "A computer lets you make more mistakes faster than any invention in human history--with the possible exceptions of handguns and tequila."--Mitch Ratliffe, "Technology Review" |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
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http://www.22REturbo.net |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 1,540
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Well now, that all depends on exactly what your idea of underpowered is doesn't it? ![]() The 22re will always be an I4 engine no matter what you do to it and your expectations of it need to be those of an I4 engine. It will never give you V8 power if that is what you are looking for. And if it gets close it won't last long whereas a V8 will do it all day long being run hard for years. The 22re in my truck has a very close expiration date...
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'95 xcab 4x4 22re,3" BL, 4" Superlift, 1.5" BJ Spacers, 36x13.5 Iroks, M/T Classic Locks, 5.29's, Rear Lockright, J and C head with engnbldr O/S SS valves, RV springs, and Crane Stage 2 cam, Magnaflow 14" with 2.25" in and 2.5" out, NGK V-Power BPR6EY's, OBA with Viair 380C and a 3 gallon tank @ 180psi, Siege Engineering Train horns - Truck bought new in Dec. '94... My buildup thread: link '03 4runner V8 SR5 completely stock |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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OK.. Would you say it's possible to build a 200 rwhp (230-240 flywheel) hp 2re-series motor that retains reasoanble reliability?
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#17 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 1,540
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It may be possible, but you're going to spend a mint on it and it won't last very long...
It's a lot more feasible to take any stock V8 that makes that amount of horsepower though and drop it in. Hop up parts are much cheaper and the engines are designed to make that kind of power so they last. Once you get the swap done replacement brand new longblocks from Chevy are only $1600 that make 290hp/320 lbs... It just doesn't make sense to spend $4k on a 22re to try to get to 200hp when there are so many V8's around...
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'95 xcab 4x4 22re,3" BL, 4" Superlift, 1.5" BJ Spacers, 36x13.5 Iroks, M/T Classic Locks, 5.29's, Rear Lockright, J and C head with engnbldr O/S SS valves, RV springs, and Crane Stage 2 cam, Magnaflow 14" with 2.25" in and 2.5" out, NGK V-Power BPR6EY's, OBA with Viair 380C and a 3 gallon tank @ 180psi, Siege Engineering Train horns - Truck bought new in Dec. '94... My buildup thread: link '03 4runner V8 SR5 completely stock |
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