cartune777

hey fellas i need some pics or some measurements, i have a 3" body lift and just put on a 4" suspension lift but i dont think it sits that high for the amount of lift it has. its got 33" tires also. could someone post pics of their truck or measure ground clearance(fender to wheel gap) with the same set up. thanks

abecedarian

Just a thought- measuring fender to wheel gap is going to give differing results depending on the size of the wheel- 15", 16", etc.
My 88 with 16"/small 31's and 4" ProComp Stage II (no body lift) / ProComp 33311 4-5" springs in the rear (no blocks) measures 16 3/8" front, 13 1/2" rear (top of rim/wheel lip to bottom of fender edge).

iamsuperbleeder

dude, abe, the quote in your sig... just gave me a headache trying to comprehend it, lmao

abecedarian

As far as I know, I didn't quote anyone. I was driving from a site back to the motel and saw a hole in the ground and thought of that.

Plumbrbob

I have heard of this combo I thought it was 3" suspension and 3" body You could get the most lift for less money.

Staying with a 3" was cheap because once you lift over 3" on suspension many corrections must be made. brake lines, driveline, pinion angle, steering,& proportioning valve

So your lifted 7" on 33's? No matter the feder well measurement I would think you ok with up travel LOL I am not sure about your COG though seems tippy.

My neighbors rig is 4" ifs lift with 3" body and he sits way higher than me on 35's with no rubbage problems

I have a 4" Trail gear lift on 36's I cut and hammered out the sheetmetal and all is fine with rubbage and I still think I may be too tippy at times LOL

abecedarian

Didn't have to lengthen the brake lines on mine with the 4" ProComp lift, but replaced them with longer braided lines anyways 'cause I plan on going higher and to larger tires as well which the braided lines will help with braking force. But to be honest, the front's were getting to the end of the line, so to speak, at full droop (without the sway bar installed- installed later though).

Plumbrbob

LOL i keep forgetting all you guys are IFS yea you wont need to lenghten the brake lines then. the rear might be border line unless its a lift that utilizes the stock springs, cause those setups dont move they are stiff as a brick.

Yotapowa

Why dont you post a pic of your truck with the lift so we can see?

Jay351

Look in the post your picture sticky.

you should be able to run 35x12.50" tires easily.

Mic09dcsm

It isn't really a solvable problem, it's like a rorscach test to have a man know himself by studying his inclinations...hence the "when logic breaks down".

xzyragon

Rorschach did the inkblot test where you derive a person's personality via their interpretations of inkblots...

abecedarian

All the answers are correct... just depends on the point of view, or 'inclinations' as you put it.

Mic09dcsm

Laziness is my trait.

OP, what's the gap between the tires and fenders? And your question is somewhat unreasonable, a lift block or spacer isn't going to shrink. The problem is you were probably expecting something else if all you've seen is trucks here with that combo...

cartune777

i should of took some measurements of before and after i think i figured out the problem though when i drive forward the front lowers about two inch's in reverse it raises 2 inch's. im pretty sure that caused by the alignment being way off, my toe is way positive here's how it sits.

ovrrdrive

This is with 3" body, 4" bracket lift, and 1.5" bj spacers with 36" Irok Radials...



Plenty of pics of the truck in my buildup thread. Link in sig.

cartune777

damn nice truck im at 57" to the mirror, how did you do th cv axle with the bj spacers are they binding?

ovrrdrive

The CV's are fine with it but I'm eating TRE's and idler arms like they were candy. If I had to do it again I would skip the bj spacers I think.

I still may pull them out at some point.

Tony Battista

here hope this helps i have a 3 inch block lift in the back and 3 inch sus lift in front sitting on 35s





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Trustyrusty

Everyone I know running BJ spacers is killing Idler arms.. thats why you just crank the T-bars... redneck, I know..

cartune777

interesting, you could make a bracket to drop the idler arm, and get a dropped pitman arm if anyone makes one. that would put it more into spec and you could keep the bj spacers. i think thats what i might do if i run into trouble.