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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bountiful, UT
Posts: 154
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Overheating driving me crazy
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 108
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Sounds like the fan clutch is bad to me. I had very similar symptoms on my 2001 dodge dakota and replaced the fan clutch and radiator cap and that fixed it right up.
To test the fan clutch, you need to get something (i.e. broom handle) and stop the fan from being able to turn. start the truck and let it come up to temp with the AC on. With it still running, remove the broom handle to let the fan go free. It should try and lock up, causing a lot of fan noise as it tries to catch up with the temp and cool it down. If it just spins kind of lazy like and makes no effort to lock up you have a bad clutch. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bountiful, UT
Posts: 154
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Thats kinda what Im thinking, is that the fan clutch needs replacing. Does anyone know how that thing works? Is that spiral thing on the outside of it like a thermostat that turns it on? Why does the fan engage right when you start the engine but shut off after a few seconds?
There is also one more thing that I think may be a related problem, but I wanted to see what you guys thought. The other day while driving up the canyon, the car felt like it was kinda pulsing, where the engine would have slightly less power(kinda like there was an extra load on the engine), then go fine, then slightly less power, and on and on at a fequency of about a half to a whole second, whenever the hills were steep. At first I had no idea what this could be, but maybe it is the fan clutch engaging and disengagine on and off? Any other thoughts? |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 137
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In your post you noted that your coolant looked a little dirty. That is possible that you have a blown head gasket, but with your symptoms id lean more towards the fan clutch too.
Your last post said that it was kind of pulsing which would also make sense with the fan clutch as it was slipping and bogging your engine down then catching up. Thats my 2 cents |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Just a thought. How much off-roading do you do? Is the radiator packed with mud?. Or seeing you have a/c how about mud in the condenser. Also is the electric fan for the a/c working?
good luck
__________________
88 Toyota pu 4x4 22re 5spd. 4:88's, 2-1/2" exhaust from cat back, 3" BL. 33x12.5 thornbirds for play, 35 conti-trac for everyday. 10K winch. Pioneer with 4" kenwoods in front, 6-1/2 MTX's in rear on a 600W amp and 12" sub on a kenwood 120W amp. 600w power inverter. 91 Toyota pu 4.3 Vortec 5spd. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 106
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Try switching to an electric fan or installing an engine oil cooler. Both have worked wonders for my 3VZE cooling issues. I run my rig hard, 4-6k rpm for 8-15 minutes at a time winding up mountain roads. Without the fan I would have to back off every now and then and let the temps get down to a reasonable level. The electric fan helped a little, keeping temps down longer, ultimately leaving the same result as without one. The oil cooler mounted in front of the radiator, has made a significant impact. Damned near full throttle, high rpm run for 15-20 minutes, and the engine doesn't break a sweat, temp gauge never exceeds 50%.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Phx AZ
Posts: 539
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Will- I would be suspicious of the radiator. This is the problem with having someone else work on the rig.....you don't know for sure what they did. A new one on-line is about 120. If it keeps over-heating you will have a headgasket issue.
__________________
www.gearinstalls.com 2001 white Xtra-cab Taco 3.4L auto TRD 88 Runner/V6/auto/31"/5.29gears ZUK was what my friends in 1990 "tagged' me with when I was building a brand new white 1990 Sami for a magazine cover. The name stuck and I haven't been able to shake it off....not even with antibiotics. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Shrevevegas, LA
Posts: 241
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You might also want check your transmission, cuz its fluid is pumped through the radiator to cool it as well. If the level is good and its nice and Red you are ok... but if its brown.... you get the idea...
I'm leaning towards the fan clutch but "heating up going up hills" made me think of that as an outside shot. Even if the tranny fluid is ok it wouldn't be a bad idea at some point to drop the pan so you can clean off the magnets and clean the filter.
__________________
Arachnoleptic fit (n.): The frantic dance performed just after you've accidentally walked through a spider web. 08 FJ Cruiser, no mods yet. 72 FJ55 Getting it back to daily driver. 2nd gen. OME steering stablizer, Collander air box mod, Jardine cat back, Bridgestone Revos, OME comfort shocks with OME 900's, Hella 550 fogs and FF 50 driving lights, Uniden 68 elite cb |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Bountiful, UT
Posts: 154
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So on Tuesday after work I went to Napa, bought a new fan clutch and installed it. I let the engine warm up and I started driving around up hills with the A/C on, and I immediately noticed the loud wirrrrr of the fan when the radiator got hot, and then it would go off when the radiator cooled off a little. My old fan clutch never got the fan blowing this hard when it heated up so I thought I solved the problem. But, the evening I was testing it, it was only about 80 degrees out. Yesterday after work it was about 100 degrees out, and when I drove home with the A/C on all was fine until I had to go up the big long hill when the needle started to climb past the half way mark. Nooooooooo!!!
So I now know that I'm getting maximum airflow across the radiator, but the heat just isn't transferring off the radiator fast enough when Im driving hard. Or, I guess it's possible that the coolant isn't pulling heat off the engine fast enough. I don't know. I need to know if my radiator is working as efficiently as it should be. Crymson: Tell me about that oil cooler you installed. Did you just mount a little oil radiator thing up in the grill and run an oil line through it? I already have a cooler for my transmission up there, I guess I could do the same for the oil if it would help. |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 106
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Quote:
There was some "creative" modification to route the oil lines through the grille area. I am switching to the remote style kit as the sandwhich filter style makes changing and installing oil filters which was a pain in the ass on the 3.0, a living nightmare. A thermostat is also going in to bypass the cooler when temps are lower than 180 degrees, but thats not until I find the time to tool around on my vehicle. Sorry for low quality pics, I seem to have misplaced my digi cam. ![]() ![]() You may have noticed the neoprene foam I fashioned into a shroud to direct the airflow into the radiator. Although this does help cooling i'm not sure of how much since I put the cooler and the foam on around the same time. They can be pruchased at www.summitracing.com More information can be found at this address: http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page07.html |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Whats it do w/o the a/c on?
Is the electric fan behind the grill for the a/c coming on?
__________________
88 Toyota pu 4x4 22re 5spd. 4:88's, 2-1/2" exhaust from cat back, 3" BL. 33x12.5 thornbirds for play, 35 conti-trac for everyday. 10K winch. Pioneer with 4" kenwoods in front, 6-1/2 MTX's in rear on a 600W amp and 12" sub on a kenwood 120W amp. 600w power inverter. 91 Toyota pu 4.3 Vortec 5spd. |
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