scope103

What does it say on the door pillar?

jay82

tested mine and its coming up that solenoid #2 is the problem. Does anyone have a part # for this and or a place to get them. Is it the same part # as solenoid #1 and are they both located in the trans? thanks

scope103

It depends.
http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com/...modelYear=1993

pewdiepie

I did this correctly and my check engine has a pulse rhythm code but my O/D continues to flash continuously, no way of pulling the code, i don't know what the problem is, since i re surfaced the grounds in my truck the hesitation from my engine and transmission disappeared even my check engine light, now there back and no way to read the transmission codes, anybody having this problem?

scope103

Is your "overdrive" switch on or off?

pewdiepie

It's off? i don't select it so it just flashes o/d off but when I push it in it would just stay lit, I reset the computer and nothing is wrong but as soon as I turned my headlights last night my check engine came on for code 71, cleared it and everytime I put my highbeams the check engine would come on

jay82

i changed the 2 solenoids in the tranny pan and runs like a champ now!

sr5pickup

I have a 1991 sr5v6 pickup. So, how can I figure out which model automatic transmission (A340E/F/H ?) I have?

I know the #2 solenoid has one bolt attaching it to the valve body. Is that all I need to remove to remove the solenoid? Do I need to remove or loosen the valve body itself? Seems like the solenoid still would not come out after I removed the bolt. Is it hung up on something or do I need to exert a significant amount of force to actually pop it out?

Thanks for any help anyone can give me.

pewdiepie

Search on Google 91 sr5 v6 pickup better model name, possibly T100, and put transmission and theirs other sites which would have the name of the trany, Yota dosnt just put random transmissions. You'll find the name and usually with dealing with the solenoid, just take off the screws, and the little harness and check for any other things that might be holding it down, and pull back and tilt from the lower end of the solenoid so It can be set free, be careful with the connector

scope103

Or, you can spend your days googling what other people claim they have on their pickup, which may or may not be similar to yours. Your choice.

The answer to all other questions is in The Good Book. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...38onvehicl.pdf

Don't remove the valve body to remove the solenoids. The solenoids are connected (hydraulic) with o-rings, so you will have to carefully work them out. You do have new o-rings, don't you?

While you're at it, would you mind sharing why you're removing the #2 solenoid, even though you don't know what transmission you're working on?

sr5pickup

Thanks scope103. I haven't removed anything yet. Just trying to gather info.

The reason I say solenoid #2 was because I got an OBDI code of 63. And it bypasses shifting from 1 to 2 and just goes immediately from 1 to 3. BTW, this is intermittent. Perhaps this is vacuum related? It's not temperature related because it happens whether the engine is cold or hot.

Your diagram reference is pretty helpful, but it doesn't detail exactly how to remove/install an individual solenoid without removing the valve body, other than to say just remove or install the solenoid.

If you have any other ideas, I'm listening.

pewdiepie

I thought I had the same problem with my shifting solenoid, after alot of work, fixing the lines of my vaccum hoses and grounds, my shifting has gotten alot better, besides the fact I have to let go of the gas so it can shift. After it warms up, everything is pretty good

scope103

Probably not; the A340H and A340F are electronic (that's why you might have solenoids) and don't care about vacuum. Since you haven't looked at your door pillar yet, I can't say for sure you have either.

Since you've looked up the code (you're already far ahead of many who post on this forum), you know that your problem is electrical (open or short), which may or may not be in the solenoid itself.

If you've already got the pan off, I'd check for open/short before I tried pulling a possibly good solenoid out.

sr5pickup

Thanks scope103. My door pillar says it's an A340E.

So, when I get some time over the next few weeks, I'll get under the truck and see if I can do some wiring tracing to see if I can see anything fishy. Do you have any ideas about tracing those wires and how I can test the solenoids themselves without tearing anything apart yet?

scope103

I got the impression that you had already removed the pan. In that case, you can disconnect the connector from the solenoid (while the solenoid is still attached to the valve body) and check resistance there. (Manual specs 11-15 ohms.) If you're reasonably comfortable with 12v, you can apply 12v to each solenoid to see if you can hear it click.

The good news is that wires don't often get messed up inside a nice bundle; they get caught on crap where they are exposed. It would not surprise me if you found a loose wire right next to the transmission.

Last, do browse the manual! There are simple to follow flow-charts that do a much better job than I can.

Good luck!

sr5pickup

OK. So after much delays, I finally got around to fixing my automatic transmisiion problem, where it would just shift from first to third and bypassed second. It turned out to be a one day job and was pretty easy, albeit somewhat messy.

I put the front tires of the truck up on some ramps so that I could have some space to manuver. Then I drained whatever tranny fluid there was in the pan before taking the tranny pan off. Then I removed the tranny filter to get unobstructed access to the bottom of the transmission. The three solenoids (2 shift and 1 lockup) were in plain sight.

Removing the solenoids was easy. Disconnect each's wire and remove each's single 10mm head bolt that secured them to the valve body. Then, with just very minor effort, pulled them out from the valve body with a pop. The lockup solenoid was still good as it measured 13.6 ohms and still clicked when 12 volts was applied to it. #1 shift solenoid measured 13.8 ohms, but only clicked intermittently when 12 volts was applied. #2 shift solenoid was dead as a doornail.

I decided to change all three solenoids anyway. So, I got the Rostra solenoid kit part # 97420K from Transtar for about $161. I also got a filter and gasket for about $11. Might as well change the filter while I'm in there. The new solenoids are smaller than the OEM ones, but should work just as well.

After coating the solenoid o-rings with the obligatory film of tranny fluid, they just push right into the valve body with a click. There was no need for any modifications as they fit perfectly, but you do need to bolt the new solenoids' ground wire with the single bolt that secures each. Then plug the wires back in, put in the new tranny filter and it's back on with the pan. I had to put in about 3 1/4 quarts of Dexron III tranny fluid ($15).

The biggest pain in the neck part was trying to put in the 12mm head bolt that secures the lower part of the dipstick tube to the outside of the transmission. A buddy with an extra pair of hands helps.

On the test drive, she shifted perfectly from the get go. No more missing 2nd gear issues and the O/D flashing light has gone away. Not bad for a Saturday's work. I'm sure I saved a boatload of mechanic's diagnostic and labor $$$.

Thanks to scope103 for all his help on this.

scope103

Thanks for the report back. This is important for all those after you trying to figure out the "most likely" fix based on the symptoms.

ElJameso

HEY!!!!! I just pulled code 62 from my 91 4runner 3VZE yesterday. That was for solenoid #1. I could not for the life of me find any good videos on how to fix it, so I made my own. I am currently uploading it to youtube. it is about an hour long. No editing or cuts or anything. You can see absolutely everything I did and all the problems I ran into along the way. I think it will be helpful. The solenoid swap was a success in the end. It was not a hard job, just frustrating at times, and I got covered in tranny fluid. I hope it helps anyone who needs to do the same job. I will post the link as soon as the video is live.

ElJameso

hope this helps

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52306321

G3R0N1M0

on the passenger side of the trans there is a tag that is blue or silver depending if the paint came off but it will tell you what trans you have