Ongoing 22RE issue, Only the Greatest of mind should enter here!! :)
#1
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Ongoing 22RE issue, Only the Greatest of mind should enter here!! :)
Hey Guys/Gals
Here we go again on a never ending trouble shoot. Here is a brief description and issue. If you can figure this problem out you win the biggest virtual cookie ever known to the internet.
Here we go
1994 4Runner 22RE 5-Speed 4x4
The truck idles perfect, starts perfect (cold or hot )
TPS is in spec
timing is at 5° with jumper
tonnes of new parts
NO CODES
Anyways, this problem existed when I got the lemon...I mean 4runner....
4runner pings on highway mostly, excessive ping when getting into the gas, which is a problem from its lack of power. If I were to guess it would be a good 18% loss. Now I have figured out this is a lean ping I'm getting from reading the plugs. Now for the though processing twist.....For whatever reason I decided to unplug the knock sensor, and what do you know, it stops pinging. Easy fix right? Wrong, replaced that knock sensor with, you guessed it, a knock sensor and of course I end up with the same problem. So I replace the ECU, and same problem. So any suggestions would be great, and just remember I have heard most, rechecked my work many times. So let the brain melt begin!
Thanks Peoples
Here we go again on a never ending trouble shoot. Here is a brief description and issue. If you can figure this problem out you win the biggest virtual cookie ever known to the internet.
Here we go
1994 4Runner 22RE 5-Speed 4x4
The truck idles perfect, starts perfect (cold or hot )
TPS is in spec
timing is at 5° with jumper
tonnes of new parts
NO CODES
Anyways, this problem existed when I got the lemon...I mean 4runner....
4runner pings on highway mostly, excessive ping when getting into the gas, which is a problem from its lack of power. If I were to guess it would be a good 18% loss. Now I have figured out this is a lean ping I'm getting from reading the plugs. Now for the though processing twist.....For whatever reason I decided to unplug the knock sensor, and what do you know, it stops pinging. Easy fix right? Wrong, replaced that knock sensor with, you guessed it, a knock sensor and of course I end up with the same problem. So I replace the ECU, and same problem. So any suggestions would be great, and just remember I have heard most, rechecked my work many times. So let the brain melt begin!
Thanks Peoples
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Adjust the timing by ear/feel to band-aide it.
You might have so much carbon build-up that its causing hot spots and pre-detonating. So the Knock sensor retards the timing to help prevent damage. Thus, why when you unplug the KS, it works fine.
What do the spark pligs look like after being used?
You might have so much carbon build-up that its causing hot spots and pre-detonating. So the Knock sensor retards the timing to help prevent damage. Thus, why when you unplug the KS, it works fine.
What do the spark pligs look like after being used?
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Adjust the timing by ear/feel to band-aide it.
You might have so much carbon build-up that its causing hot spots and pre-detonating. So the Knock sensor retards the timing to help prevent damage. Thus, why when you unplug the KS, it works fine.
What do the spark plugs look like after being used?
You might have so much carbon build-up that its causing hot spots and pre-detonating. So the Knock sensor retards the timing to help prevent damage. Thus, why when you unplug the KS, it works fine.
What do the spark plugs look like after being used?
Thanks for the reply
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#15
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How is your o2 sensor? The o2 sensor takes a reading from the exhaust and corrects the fuel trim to make it run not to rich and not too lean. I have seen non OEM (bosch) o2 sensors that don't heat up enough or do not stick into the exhaust far enough to provide accurate data back to the ecu.
I know you said there is not a check engine light, but a lot of the times the light won't light up, but there are codes in there.
I would also check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Just put a guage in the port for the fuel pressure regulator and see what your getting.
I know you said there is not a check engine light, but a lot of the times the light won't light up, but there are codes in there.
I would also check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. Just put a guage in the port for the fuel pressure regulator and see what your getting.
#16
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When you apply vacuum at idle, it should kill or nearly kill the engine. It's possible for the valve to work fine, but the passages to get gummed up. I know on the 22Rs, the sharp downturn in the pipe into the intake likes to carbon shut, even thought the valve itself is fine. I seem to recall the -REs have a fairly sharp turn into the back of the intake?
#18
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The egr diaphram may work- have you checked that the passages aren't carbed up.
You running the correct heat range for plugs?
You need to get a diagnostic flow chart.
You running the correct heat range for plugs?
You need to get a diagnostic flow chart.
#20
I have the same problem, new motor 11K on it, I've checked, re-checked, and quadruple checked the timing, egr, vacuum lines, leaks, etc. I also replaced every sensor and every ignition component on the engine, including a brand new distributor.
If I don't get it fixed soon I'm going to drive this truck off a cliff.
If I don't get it fixed soon I'm going to drive this truck off a cliff.