Notices
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Is one radiator just like another?

Old 04-24-2008, 08:43 PM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
msh441's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Pacific Northwest, WA
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Is one radiator just like another?

My new (to me) '94 4Runner got a clean bill of health today, except for one thing: Some small cracks are present in the top of the radiator. Not bad enough to replace (according to the tech) but somthing I'll need to think about in the next 6-12 months.

I've seen a ton or rads out there avilible in the $129-149 range. Many carrying a LIFETIME warranty! Can't beat that.

I'm familiar with intercoolers and the fact that one is not necessarily just like the other. Are radiators the same? Would anyone necisarrily recommend one brand/type/distributor over another? If so, why?

Thanks in advance.

MIke H
Old 04-25-2008, 12:53 AM
  #2  
Contributing Member
 
iamsuperbleeder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Lake City, Fl
Posts: 12,248
Received 29 Likes on 24 Posts
If I could go back to when I replaced mine in my 91 PU 4wd 22re, I would have spent the extra cash and got an aftermarket all aluminum one instead of just putting a stock replacement in.

1) I only paid about $110 for mine from Advance Auto Parts. Good deal with the lifetime replacement guarantee, but had some issues... read number 2

2) What was supposed to be a stock replacement ended up being a bit of a headache. It bolted up just fine in the stock location, but ended up being too tall (the cap hit one of the hoods structural supports close to the front of the hood), so I had to hack up and cut away a good bit of it to make it fit.

3) Why go stock when you can be on the safe side and get a rad that will keep you engine cool and probably do it twice as efficient!

Really, a 2 core rad would be really nice, but I have not seen one for Yotes anywhere (not for our gen models anyway), probably because of the thickness limitations... tight spot under the hood of these things, v6 or 4cyl.

What I would do is save up money for the next 6 months or so (however long the rad lasts), and invest in a nice aftermarket aluminum rad from say, LCE or somewhere you know has a good rep.

If you have the cash, do away with the fan clutch setup too and throw in an electric fan (save gas, add HP, RUN COOLER!... not to mention, bragging rights and it looks cool )


Just my $00.02...

...maybe $00.03...

Old 04-25-2008, 07:46 AM
  #3  
Contributing Member
 
mt_goat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oklahoma State
Posts: 10,666
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
I would replace it now if it's not holding pressure, all it takes is a pin hole to vent the pressure out. No pressure means your coolant boils at a lower temp.

Some of the aftermarket companies are starting to sell aluminum replacement radiators for our trucks. Yes, they have plastic tanks (which I hate) but its worth it IMHO to get the aluminum core. Don't expect to find one with more than one core though because aluminum cores are made with bigger slots. But a one core aluminum rad seems to cool better than a 3 core copper/brass rad.

Here's some pics of one I got from Summit Racing:




The fit was fine, and they are much lighter weight too.

Last edited by mt_goat; 04-25-2008 at 08:30 AM.
Old 04-25-2008, 08:04 AM
  #4  
Registered User
 
norcalsvx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: GRASS valley, CA
Posts: 2,122
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
^^ nice is that the ebay one? got a link?
Old 04-25-2008, 08:09 AM
  #5  
Contributing Member
 
mt_goat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oklahoma State
Posts: 10,666
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Originally Posted by norcalsvx
^^ nice is that the ebay one? got a link?
From Summit racing, but that reminds me there was a guy selling ALL aluminum rads on ebay for unbelivable prices. Like too good to be true prices, but he had pretty good feedback, so might be a good deal.
Old 04-25-2008, 08:14 AM
  #6  
Registered User
 
norcalsvx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: GRASS valley, CA
Posts: 2,122
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by mt_goat
From Summit racing, but that reminds me there was a guy selling ALL aluminum rads on ebay for unbelivable prices. Like too good to be true prices, but he had pretty good feedback, so might be a good deal.
yea i found one on ebay for $120-130 range, i might have to pick it up
Old 04-25-2008, 08:28 AM
  #7  
Contributing Member
 
mt_goat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oklahoma State
Posts: 10,666
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Originally Posted by norcalsvx
yea i found one on ebay for $120-130 range, i might have to pick it up
Yeah it was about that price, does it have aluminum tanks (welded on)? Normally an ALL aluminum rad is in the $400-$500 range.
Old 04-25-2008, 08:34 AM
  #8  
Registered User
 
Hilux808's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Glendale AZ
Posts: 292
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Because of all the problems I have had with the brand "ReadyRad/Proliance" radiators (everyone sells that and dosen't have any other type to offer) I decided to give this one a try. I've been running it for a few weeks and it seems to be working out. I had to cut my fan shroud in 2 peices to make it fit but I've been happy with it so far. The guy who sell's these is really helpfull too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...QQcmdZViewItem
Old 04-25-2008, 08:40 AM
  #9  
Registered User
 
mr x's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
i'm going to need one soon, mine looks pretty week, the fins are starting to corrode away, still keeps my engine cool though.
Old 04-25-2008, 08:57 AM
  #10  
Contributing Member
 
mt_goat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oklahoma State
Posts: 10,666
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Originally Posted by Hilux808
Because of all the problems I have had with the brand "ReadyRad/Proliance" radiators (everyone sells that and dosen't have any other type to offer) I decided to give this one a try. I've been running it for a few weeks and it seems to be working out. I had to cut my fan shroud in 2 peices to make it fit but I've been happy with it so far. The guy who sell's these is really helpfull too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...QQcmdZViewItem

Yeah that was the one, do you happen to have the dimensions of that? Wondering what the difference is between the 22re and V6 models. Interesting, it says its a 2 core.
Old 04-25-2008, 02:16 PM
  #11  
Contributing Member
 
Jay351's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 5 Posts
I currently need a new radiator BAD. Anyone know if that aluminum one for the 22re will work in the 3vze application? I would Love to get the one from ebay!
Old 04-25-2008, 02:46 PM
  #12  
Registered User
 
norcalsvx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: GRASS valley, CA
Posts: 2,122
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
$148 for a all alum one form ebay

Old 04-25-2008, 02:56 PM
  #13  
Registered User
 
thook's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Posts: 8,656
Received 15 Likes on 13 Posts
Originally Posted by mt_goat
But a one core aluminum rad seems to cool better than a 3 core copper/brass rad.
DAMN!!!! I wished this thread had started sooner. I just paid AutoZone to order me a 3row C/B yesterday. I wonder if I can cancel the order and get my money back.??? Need to call....

So, you really think they're better, Dale? You see....I'd questioned some "radiator professionals" in this area about the advantages/disadvantages of both. My main concern was if the AL rad's would be better against corrosion and electrolysis. I didn't know they would actually cool that much better even an AL with 1row vs. a 3row C/B.
Old 04-25-2008, 06:37 PM
  #14  
Contributing Member
 
mt_goat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oklahoma State
Posts: 10,666
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Originally Posted by thook
DAMN!!!! I wished this thread had started sooner. I just paid AutoZone to order me a 3row C/B yesterday. I wonder if I can cancel the order and get my money back.??? Need to call....

So, you really think they're better, Dale? You see....I'd questioned some "radiator professionals" in this area about the advantages/disadvantages of both. My main concern was if the AL rad's would be better against corrosion and electrolysis. I didn't know they would actually cool that much better even an AL with 1row vs. a 3row C/B.
You can't really compare the number of rows between the 2 because the aluminum tube is real long usually (like 1.25" or 1.38") and the copper/brass tubes are real short (like .38") with spaces in between. As it was explained to me the main cooling advantage is that the one long tube without the spaces has more tube to fin contact. Which having had a semester of heat transfer made sense to me. Plus the one big tube has better coolant flow through it.

I always use distilled water when mixing coolant so electrolysis shouldn't be a factor. Actually now I'm using Evans waterless coolant so there is no water in my system at all, but thats another topic.

Last edited by mt_goat; 04-25-2008 at 06:46 PM.
Old 04-25-2008, 07:31 PM
  #15  
Contributing Member
 
Jay351's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 9,055
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes on 5 Posts
So you guys think that alum rad would be ample enough to cool the 3vz even though its spec'd for the 22re?
Old 04-25-2008, 07:44 PM
  #16  
Contributing Member
 
mt_goat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Oklahoma State
Posts: 10,666
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Originally Posted by Jay351
So you guys think that alum rad would be ample enough to cool the 3vz even though its spec'd for the 22re?
Send him a message and get the dimensions.
Old 04-25-2008, 08:28 PM
  #17  
Registered User
 
thook's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Posts: 8,656
Received 15 Likes on 13 Posts
Originally Posted by mt_goat
You can't really compare the number of rows between the 2 because the aluminum tube is real long usually (like 1.25" or 1.38") and the copper/brass tubes are real short (like .38") with spaces in between. As it was explained to me the main cooling advantage is that the one long tube without the spaces has more tube to fin contact. Which having had a semester of heat transfer made sense to me. Plus the one big tube has better coolant flow through it.

I always use distilled water when mixing coolant so electrolysis shouldn't be a factor. Actually now I'm using Evans waterless coolant so there is no water in my system at all, but thats another topic.
Actually, my curiosity and concerns are more about a C/B rad with alum. head (being dissimilar metals) vs. alum. rad and head. Anyway, I don't know if it makes any difference, but I'm going to do some research and elaborate more tomorrow.

Thanks
Old 04-25-2008, 09:00 PM
  #18  
Registered User
 
Steveh29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 738
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I've bought two radiators from Performance radiator (one as recently as last month). They fit just fine, bolted up perfectly and I've been happy with their CBR radiator (copper/brass) for $205. They ship UPS ground for free and I had it in two days because it shipped from Houston which was close by.

http://www.performanceradiator.com/

I do run an all aluminum radiator on my Alfa Romeo and had one on my big block Ford and they do transfer heat better, but I've never had an overheating problem with the truck. Just giving you options.

Last edited by Steveh29; 04-25-2008 at 09:02 PM.
Old 04-25-2008, 10:23 PM
  #19  
Registered User
 
CoedNaked's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 1,475
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I replaced my rad with a performance rad and so far no problems after about 63,000 km's (40,000-ish miles). At the time the rad was about $280-ish canadian if I'm not mistaken, a stock replacement OEM rad was about $360-ish if I remember correctly. But if I could go back I might consider exploring the aluminum rad thing a bit more too.
Old 04-26-2008, 04:55 AM
  #20  
Registered User
 
thook's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
Posts: 8,656
Received 15 Likes on 13 Posts
I found this on AL rads, so far...

http://www.radiators.com/radiator_ho...radiators.html
http://www.alumorad.com/index.html
http://www.geocities.com/dtmcbride/h...ntifreeze.html
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...68/ai_95954275
http://www.corvettefever.com/project...ctric_fan.html


Anyone heard of this?....
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/anode.html

Lots of reading, I know, but informative. Answered my questions about dissimilar metals and electrolyis/corrosion. Happens faster in Al-rads, but we have alum. heads and water pumps, etc., anyway. So, one must take care, regardless of which radiator is used.

One thing that sparks my interest is the "OAT" technology coolant. Need more reading on that. And, one article talks about "Evans" coolant....which I know you [Mt. Goat] use. We've talked about that stuff before. Expensive, but good. I need to find out more about Water-Wetter...is it worth it?

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Is one radiator just like another?



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:02 AM.