Is one radiator just like another?
#1
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Is one radiator just like another?
My new (to me) '94 4Runner got a clean bill of health today, except for one thing: Some small cracks are present in the top of the radiator. Not bad enough to replace (according to the tech) but somthing I'll need to think about in the next 6-12 months.
I've seen a ton or rads out there avilible in the $129-149 range. Many carrying a LIFETIME warranty! Can't beat that.
I'm familiar with intercoolers and the fact that one is not necessarily just like the other. Are radiators the same? Would anyone necisarrily recommend one brand/type/distributor over another? If so, why?
Thanks in advance.
MIke H
I've seen a ton or rads out there avilible in the $129-149 range. Many carrying a LIFETIME warranty! Can't beat that.
I'm familiar with intercoolers and the fact that one is not necessarily just like the other. Are radiators the same? Would anyone necisarrily recommend one brand/type/distributor over another? If so, why?
Thanks in advance.
MIke H
#2
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If I could go back to when I replaced mine in my 91 PU 4wd 22re, I would have spent the extra cash and got an aftermarket all aluminum one instead of just putting a stock replacement in.
1) I only paid about $110 for mine from Advance Auto Parts. Good deal with the lifetime replacement guarantee, but had some issues... read number 2
2) What was supposed to be a stock replacement ended up being a bit of a headache. It bolted up just fine in the stock location, but ended up being too tall (the cap hit one of the hoods structural supports close to the front of the hood), so I had to hack up and cut away a good bit of it to make it fit.
3) Why go stock when you can be on the safe side and get a rad that will keep you engine cool and probably do it twice as efficient!
Really, a 2 core rad would be really nice, but I have not seen one for Yotes anywhere (not for our gen models anyway), probably because of the thickness limitations... tight spot under the hood of these things, v6 or 4cyl.
What I would do is save up money for the next 6 months or so (however long the rad lasts), and invest in a nice aftermarket aluminum rad from say, LCE or somewhere you know has a good rep.
If you have the cash, do away with the fan clutch setup too and throw in an electric fan (save gas, add HP, RUN COOLER!... not to mention, bragging rights and it looks cool )
Just my $00.02...
...maybe $00.03...
1) I only paid about $110 for mine from Advance Auto Parts. Good deal with the lifetime replacement guarantee, but had some issues... read number 2
2) What was supposed to be a stock replacement ended up being a bit of a headache. It bolted up just fine in the stock location, but ended up being too tall (the cap hit one of the hoods structural supports close to the front of the hood), so I had to hack up and cut away a good bit of it to make it fit.
3) Why go stock when you can be on the safe side and get a rad that will keep you engine cool and probably do it twice as efficient!
Really, a 2 core rad would be really nice, but I have not seen one for Yotes anywhere (not for our gen models anyway), probably because of the thickness limitations... tight spot under the hood of these things, v6 or 4cyl.
What I would do is save up money for the next 6 months or so (however long the rad lasts), and invest in a nice aftermarket aluminum rad from say, LCE or somewhere you know has a good rep.
If you have the cash, do away with the fan clutch setup too and throw in an electric fan (save gas, add HP, RUN COOLER!... not to mention, bragging rights and it looks cool )
Just my $00.02...
...maybe $00.03...
#3
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I would replace it now if it's not holding pressure, all it takes is a pin hole to vent the pressure out. No pressure means your coolant boils at a lower temp.
Some of the aftermarket companies are starting to sell aluminum replacement radiators for our trucks. Yes, they have plastic tanks (which I hate) but its worth it IMHO to get the aluminum core. Don't expect to find one with more than one core though because aluminum cores are made with bigger slots. But a one core aluminum rad seems to cool better than a 3 core copper/brass rad.
Here's some pics of one I got from Summit Racing:
The fit was fine, and they are much lighter weight too.
Some of the aftermarket companies are starting to sell aluminum replacement radiators for our trucks. Yes, they have plastic tanks (which I hate) but its worth it IMHO to get the aluminum core. Don't expect to find one with more than one core though because aluminum cores are made with bigger slots. But a one core aluminum rad seems to cool better than a 3 core copper/brass rad.
Here's some pics of one I got from Summit Racing:
The fit was fine, and they are much lighter weight too.
Last edited by mt_goat; 04-25-2008 at 08:30 AM.
#5
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yea i found one on ebay for $120-130 range, i might have to pick it up
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Because of all the problems I have had with the brand "ReadyRad/Proliance" radiators (everyone sells that and dosen't have any other type to offer) I decided to give this one a try. I've been running it for a few weeks and it seems to be working out. I had to cut my fan shroud in 2 peices to make it fit but I've been happy with it so far. The guy who sell's these is really helpfull too.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...QQcmdZViewItem
#10
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Because of all the problems I have had with the brand "ReadyRad/Proliance" radiators (everyone sells that and dosen't have any other type to offer) I decided to give this one a try. I've been running it for a few weeks and it seems to be working out. I had to cut my fan shroud in 2 peices to make it fit but I've been happy with it so far. The guy who sell's these is really helpfull too.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...QQcmdZViewItem
Yeah that was the one, do you happen to have the dimensions of that? Wondering what the difference is between the 22re and V6 models. Interesting, it says its a 2 core.
#13
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So, you really think they're better, Dale? You see....I'd questioned some "radiator professionals" in this area about the advantages/disadvantages of both. My main concern was if the AL rad's would be better against corrosion and electrolysis. I didn't know they would actually cool that much better even an AL with 1row vs. a 3row C/B.
#14
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DAMN!!!! I wished this thread had started sooner. I just paid AutoZone to order me a 3row C/B yesterday. I wonder if I can cancel the order and get my money back.??? Need to call....
So, you really think they're better, Dale? You see....I'd questioned some "radiator professionals" in this area about the advantages/disadvantages of both. My main concern was if the AL rad's would be better against corrosion and electrolysis. I didn't know they would actually cool that much better even an AL with 1row vs. a 3row C/B.
So, you really think they're better, Dale? You see....I'd questioned some "radiator professionals" in this area about the advantages/disadvantages of both. My main concern was if the AL rad's would be better against corrosion and electrolysis. I didn't know they would actually cool that much better even an AL with 1row vs. a 3row C/B.
I always use distilled water when mixing coolant so electrolysis shouldn't be a factor. Actually now I'm using Evans waterless coolant so there is no water in my system at all, but thats another topic.
Last edited by mt_goat; 04-25-2008 at 06:46 PM.
#16
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#17
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You can't really compare the number of rows between the 2 because the aluminum tube is real long usually (like 1.25" or 1.38") and the copper/brass tubes are real short (like .38") with spaces in between. As it was explained to me the main cooling advantage is that the one long tube without the spaces has more tube to fin contact. Which having had a semester of heat transfer made sense to me. Plus the one big tube has better coolant flow through it.
I always use distilled water when mixing coolant so electrolysis shouldn't be a factor. Actually now I'm using Evans waterless coolant so there is no water in my system at all, but thats another topic.
I always use distilled water when mixing coolant so electrolysis shouldn't be a factor. Actually now I'm using Evans waterless coolant so there is no water in my system at all, but thats another topic.
Thanks
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I've bought two radiators from Performance radiator (one as recently as last month). They fit just fine, bolted up perfectly and I've been happy with their CBR radiator (copper/brass) for $205. They ship UPS ground for free and I had it in two days because it shipped from Houston which was close by.
http://www.performanceradiator.com/
I do run an all aluminum radiator on my Alfa Romeo and had one on my big block Ford and they do transfer heat better, but I've never had an overheating problem with the truck. Just giving you options.
http://www.performanceradiator.com/
I do run an all aluminum radiator on my Alfa Romeo and had one on my big block Ford and they do transfer heat better, but I've never had an overheating problem with the truck. Just giving you options.
Last edited by Steveh29; 04-25-2008 at 09:02 PM.
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I replaced my rad with a performance rad and so far no problems after about 63,000 km's (40,000-ish miles). At the time the rad was about $280-ish canadian if I'm not mistaken, a stock replacement OEM rad was about $360-ish if I remember correctly. But if I could go back I might consider exploring the aluminum rad thing a bit more too.
#20
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I found this on AL rads, so far...
http://www.radiators.com/radiator_ho...radiators.html
http://www.alumorad.com/index.html
http://www.geocities.com/dtmcbride/h...ntifreeze.html
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...68/ai_95954275
http://www.corvettefever.com/project...ctric_fan.html
Anyone heard of this?....
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/anode.html
Lots of reading, I know, but informative. Answered my questions about dissimilar metals and electrolyis/corrosion. Happens faster in Al-rads, but we have alum. heads and water pumps, etc., anyway. So, one must take care, regardless of which radiator is used.
One thing that sparks my interest is the "OAT" technology coolant. Need more reading on that. And, one article talks about "Evans" coolant....which I know you [Mt. Goat] use. We've talked about that stuff before. Expensive, but good. I need to find out more about Water-Wetter...is it worth it?
http://www.radiators.com/radiator_ho...radiators.html
http://www.alumorad.com/index.html
http://www.geocities.com/dtmcbride/h...ntifreeze.html
http://findarticles.com/p/articles/m...68/ai_95954275
http://www.corvettefever.com/project...ctric_fan.html
Anyone heard of this?....
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/anode.html
Lots of reading, I know, but informative. Answered my questions about dissimilar metals and electrolyis/corrosion. Happens faster in Al-rads, but we have alum. heads and water pumps, etc., anyway. So, one must take care, regardless of which radiator is used.
One thing that sparks my interest is the "OAT" technology coolant. Need more reading on that. And, one article talks about "Evans" coolant....which I know you [Mt. Goat] use. We've talked about that stuff before. Expensive, but good. I need to find out more about Water-Wetter...is it worth it?