oil in vac hoses
#1
oil in vac hoses
I just replaced the head on my 94 22re, got everything put back together and did a compression test
#1=125
#2=135
#3=125
#4=135
Ive also got a bad PCV problem, the dipstick will blow out if the engine is revved up and oil sprays into the vent hoses going in to the throttle body. I think I know I am screwed.
I guess I am going to buy a NEW motor, I am at my wits end. I learned a good lesson from all of this NEVER RUN IT HOT!.. any good advice on NEW motors? I am clueless as to who builds a good motor as I am just a Plumber. Any Help? Thanks in advance.
#1=125
#2=135
#3=125
#4=135
Ive also got a bad PCV problem, the dipstick will blow out if the engine is revved up and oil sprays into the vent hoses going in to the throttle body. I think I know I am screwed.
I guess I am going to buy a NEW motor, I am at my wits end. I learned a good lesson from all of this NEVER RUN IT HOT!.. any good advice on NEW motors? I am clueless as to who builds a good motor as I am just a Plumber. Any Help? Thanks in advance.
#2
Registered User
Ouch, that hurts.
Before I started owning nothing but toyotas, I used to see this a lot on high mileage motors: if you do the heads and leave the rings, that puts added pressure on the rings and you start seeing a lot of blow-by. When I did the heads on my veezy at 218k miles, though, the cross-hatching was still so good in the cyl walls I decided to chance leaving the rings as is and I did get away with it. But even a good old toyota will act up if the rings are worn enough, I guess.
You didn't give your location and shipping is a major factor in rebuilt engines, but if you are in the West, I've heard nothing but good things about Oregon Engine Rebuilders http://oregonengines.net/ They give an unlimited mileage warranty, hard to beat that.
Before I started owning nothing but toyotas, I used to see this a lot on high mileage motors: if you do the heads and leave the rings, that puts added pressure on the rings and you start seeing a lot of blow-by. When I did the heads on my veezy at 218k miles, though, the cross-hatching was still so good in the cyl walls I decided to chance leaving the rings as is and I did get away with it. But even a good old toyota will act up if the rings are worn enough, I guess.
You didn't give your location and shipping is a major factor in rebuilt engines, but if you are in the West, I've heard nothing but good things about Oregon Engine Rebuilders http://oregonengines.net/ They give an unlimited mileage warranty, hard to beat that.
#3
Thanks for the tip. I am in Atlanta Georgia. Do my compression #'s look good are bad, i dont know? is there any other reason that I am havin this PCV problem? I know its all a guess, but I thought some of the seasoned vets might have a different view. This place is a wealth of knowledge thanks to everybody for your informative post as they helped me get this far without wasting any more money
#4
Registered User
Well if you ran the compression test with the throttle held open and cranked it until the gauge needle stopped rising and you got those numbers, then I'd say your motor has a serious compression problem. 142 pounds is the minimum spec but I've heard of 22REs running fairly well at 135. But 125 is getting close to the point where it won't run.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../6compress.pdf
Then you've got what sounds to be a pretty big blow-by problem. Since the compression numbers are fairly even, it sounds like worn rings rather than a broken ring in one cyl. If you want to be sure about what's going on, find a shop that actually knows what a leakdown test is and has the special two-dial leakdown test gauge.
http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/leakdown.htm
I'm sure there must be some decent engine rebuilders in the southeast, but I don't know of any offhand, hopefully someone here will be able to help you out.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../6compress.pdf
Then you've got what sounds to be a pretty big blow-by problem. Since the compression numbers are fairly even, it sounds like worn rings rather than a broken ring in one cyl. If you want to be sure about what's going on, find a shop that actually knows what a leakdown test is and has the special two-dial leakdown test gauge.
http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/leakdown.htm
I'm sure there must be some decent engine rebuilders in the southeast, but I don't know of any offhand, hopefully someone here will be able to help you out.
#5
Thanks again, I've been researching all day tring to find a New Motor close to Atlanta. I am not sure but I think I will be getting a NEW one from Japan Motors. I just want a motor to last 100,000 before it needs a major overhaul again. I would also like it BEEFed up a lil, so I can tow a small duck boat. Oo well thanks again from you time.
#6
Registered User
I'm pretty sure the new motors from "Japan" Motors are made in China. I think I would prefer a remanned Japanese motor, depending of course on how good the rebuilder was.
#7
Made is china, everything is made there...dont Americans make anything anymore? I did find an Atl engine builder, i will post back with results ... if anyone cares to know.
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#8
Registered User
Do let us know: we're all about vicarious thrills here
Plus if you like the rebuilder (or even if you don't) it will be good to post it so others in the southeast in the future can search and find this thread.
Plus if you like the rebuilder (or even if you don't) it will be good to post it so others in the southeast in the future can search and find this thread.
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