Oil change 22re

BigBoy60 · 03-11-2008, 11:06 AM

I have had great problems changing the oil filter. It is very difficult to get to. Does anyone have any helpful hints??? Thanks

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mr_schuster · 03-11-2008, 11:44 AM

There is a removable metal plate in the pass front inner fender with 4, 10mm bolts. Remove that plate to access the oil filter. Get a filter wrench ( the kind that attaches to a 3/8 extension ) and istall it on the filter, use a 24"- 3/8 drive extension and a ratchet to turn the filter loose. Remember to place a pan under the front diff to catch all the oil.

This is how I do mine. Quick and easy.

montanatoy · 03-11-2008, 11:48 AM

Inside the passenger side front wheel well is a little metal plate held on by 4 bolts. Remove this plate and you will have direct access to the oil filter. I use a two-claw type filter wrench that fits into a socket and then use a long extention to remove the filter. Place rags underneath the filter before removing to catch some of the oil that comes out when the filter is loosen.

bigt · 03-11-2008, 02:14 PM

yeah i never had a plate on my runner.. i just stick my arm in and twist!

Jay351 · 03-11-2008, 02:42 PM

Get some one with skinny girl arms to grab it

Or just jam your arm in and twist.

Its not as bad as the 88-95ish chevy 5.7 4x4.... stupid gm.

rubysRunner · 03-11-2008, 02:54 PM

I never have too much of a problem...but that might be because of my skinny girl arms

I just reach in there with an oil filter wrench and off she comes.

Moral of the story, get your girlfriend/wife to get in there and it'll be easy as pie. lol.

EWAYota · 03-11-2008, 03:47 PM

I've always just reached in from the wheel well. Only problem I've ever had (almost every oil change) is oil from the pan nailing the crossmember. Picked up a Fram product that allows the oil to drain through a hose, no more mess.

Flash319 · 03-11-2008, 05:48 PM

Without AC it is very easy to get at if you stick your arm from the front of the engine to the filter under the intake. If it has AC I go from the fender, just stick my arm between the frame and fender. Both I use a strap type wrench.

foot0069 · 03-11-2008, 05:55 PM

I have a strap type wrench with a swivel where the strap clenches that makes it really easy going through the access cover in the fender.
Jim

dirtoyboy · 03-12-2008, 05:50 AM

dont screw the dang thing on so tight and you wont have a problem

MMA_Alex · 03-12-2008, 09:48 AM

yeah i've never had to remove the plate for a stock size filter (got a fl1a on there now, and I had to remove the plate)

i have a filter wrench for it, but never have had to use it...its always been loose enough to unscrew by hand. be careful if you use a filter wrench to screw it on be reaaaaly gentle. they're supposed to be hand tight without the wrench

dirtoyboy · 03-12-2008, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MMA_Alex

yeah i've never had to remove the plate for a stock size filter (got a fl1a on there now, and I had to remove the plate)

i have a filter wrench for it, but never have had to use it...its always been loose enough to unscrew by hand. be careful if you use a filter wrench to screw it on be reaaaaly gentle. they're supposed to be hand tight without the wrench

That is correct! You should never need a filter wrench to put on OR take off a filter on a 22re. Also, when you are putting a cold filter on a hot (or warm) engine take thermal expansion into consideration. What was once "hand tight" might not be hand tight anymore

Matt16 · 03-12-2008, 10:10 AM

Poke a screwdriver through it and torque it off. There is a slight possibility of oil leaking from the hole you punch in the filter so I'd advise not reusing it.

rdlsz24 · 03-12-2008, 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt16

Poke a screwdriver through it and torque it off. There is a slight possibility of oil leaking from the hole you punch in the filter so I'd advise not reusing it.

lol.

I put them on hand tight but they always seem to be tighter when I go to take them off.

Rob

dirtoyboy · 03-12-2008, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rdlsz24

lol.

I put them on hand tight but they always seem to be tighter when I go to take them off.

Rob

Well, now you know why!

MMA_Alex · 03-12-2008, 01:14 PM

they'll always tighten over time because of the heat, but i've yet to need a filter wrench on my truck, and i've changed the filter a number of times.

HelliphinoN8 · 03-12-2008, 04:49 PM

Hand tighten with a thin film of oil on the gasket. If you dont think it's tight enough or you just wanna check, just reach your damn arm in there and check. Also, Here's an AWESOME tip!! Srew that small ass stock filter. Use a PH8A V-8 sized filter. That way you can throw a full 5 quarts in the engine and have more filter to keep that crap clean. Use 20-50w oil and it'll give your timing chain and guides a little longer life. I live in PHX, AZ so I use 20-50w all year, you may want to use a little lighter oil in cooler climates.

deyodragon · 03-13-2008, 12:21 AM

I was just gonna suggest the Fram PH8A myself! I got a tough guard (or is it the extra guard?) , with internal valves to keep oil in the filter for well lubed starts. More filter, more oil, same threads and gasket. Can you beat it?

Matt16 · 03-13-2008, 01:53 AM

Wix are good filters and cheap. Fram have a really bad rep.

jason191918 · 03-13-2008, 04:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt16

Poke a screwdriver through it and torque it off. There is a slight possibility of oil leaking from the hole you punch in the filter so I'd advise not reusing it.

Just make sure you are off center or at the very at with it. You don't want to stick the screwdriver through the pipe/threads.

ozziesironmanoffroad · 03-13-2008, 05:28 AM

big pita i agree with the PO

MMA_Alex · 03-13-2008, 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deyodragon

I was just gonna suggest the Fram PH8A myself! I got a tough guard (or is it the extra guard?) , with internal valves to keep oil in the filter for well lubed starts. More filter, more oil, same threads and gasket. Can you beat it?

yes, you could buy anything but fram. many for the same price, all with far superior performance...

ps. every oil filter has an antidrainback valve like you describe, but fram's doesn't seal very well. everyone else's seems to do just fine...so much for no dry starts.

Georgiadave · 03-14-2008, 06:25 PM

You might consider a remote filter kit, it the present location is that difficult for you, or you don't like the oil leaking on the block and crossarm. If the filter is on too tight, wrap a strip of sandpaper about 3 X 8 long around the filter, it will give you more grip to turn the filter by hand. Unless you have very big arms, you should be able to access the filter from directly in front of the battery.

03-11-2008, 11:48 AM	#3 (permalink)
montanatoy Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: West Yellowstone, MT Posts: 18	Oil Filter Inside the passenger side front wheel well is a little metal plate held on by 4 bolts. Remove this plate and you will have direct access to the oil filter. I use a two-claw type filter wrench that fits into a socket and then use a long extention to remove the filter. Place rags underneath the filter before removing to catch some of the oil that comes out when the filter is loosen.

03-11-2008, 02:14 PM	#4 (permalink)
bigt Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario Posts: 3,201	yeah i never had a plate on my runner.. i just stick my arm in and twist! __________________ 1991 HILUX SURF SSR-X turbo diesel right hand drive toyota imported in 2005 from japan, 130,000 km 31 bfg a/t auto current build 1987 LWB suzuki samurai. turning 2 into one.. yota axles welded front to back, yota springs , ifs steering box,, this bad boy will not only eat jeeps but toyotas aswell \m/

03-11-2008, 02:42 PM	#5 (permalink)
Jay351 Contributing Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada Posts: 8,640	Get some one with skinny girl arms to grab it Or just jam your arm in and twist. Its not as bad as the 88-95ish chevy 5.7 4x4.... stupid gm. __________________ 91 Pickup - xcab - 5sp - 3.0 - SR5 - 4x4 - 250k \|2.25" catback w/ magnaflow cat + glasspack \| Weasy2k cams \| Aisin manual hubs \| Diff breather mod\| Marlin HD clutch \|3" BL \| es3000's \|2" AAL \|1.5" bj spacers \| ISR \| Alpine headunit \| 4" Infinity fronts/5" rears \| 4.88's \|Rear lockright \| 33x12.50" BFG M/T on 15x8" steelies \|Hella 500's \|4" reverse lights\| Grant GT \|idler arm brace\|hella E-codes\| Marlin armor \|SS IFS brace \| %100 Amsoil synthetic http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2572486

03-11-2008, 02:54 PM	#6 (permalink)
rubysRunner Contributing Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Maple Ridge, BC Posts: 292	I never have too much of a problem...but that might be because of my skinny girl arms I just reach in there with an oil filter wrench and off she comes. Moral of the story, get your girlfriend/wife to get in there and it'll be easy as pie. lol. __________________ ~Julie~ 95 4Runner 22re 5spd 4x4 - aisin manual hubs - marlin crawler rear bumper - grant gt - 31x10.50 BFG AT's on stock steelies - pretty blue dash lights - retrofitted intermittent wipers (yay!) - bj spacers and downey springs sitting in my boyfriends garage...

03-11-2008, 03:47 PM	#7 (permalink)
EWAYota Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Richland, Washington Posts: 4,597	I've always just reached in from the wheel well. Only problem I've ever had (almost every oil change) is oil from the pan nailing the crossmember. Picked up a Fram product that allows the oil to drain through a hose, no more mess. __________________ DJ 1994 Pickup 22RE, Engnbldr 261 cam, 5 speed. Tires that go around and around... Preping for SAS...... Originally Posted By Fustercluck "Proof that Gangus did not spontaneously generate....he has relatives." Originally Posted By Tacoclimber "My two year old better get a job, soon..." Reply Posted By Oly884 "I hear coal mining is a great career." Myspace

03-11-2008, 11:44 AM	#2 (permalink)
mr_schuster Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: NC Posts: 164	There is a removable metal plate in the pass front inner fender with 4, 10mm bolts. Remove that plate to access the oil filter. Get a filter wrench ( the kind that attaches to a 3/8 extension ) and istall it on the filter, use a 24"- 3/8 drive extension and a ratchet to turn the filter loose. Remember to place a pan under the front diff to catch all the oil. This is how I do mine. Quick and easy.

03-11-2008, 05:48 PM	#8 (permalink)
Flash319 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Barrie, Ontario CANADA Posts: 1,356	Without AC it is very easy to get at if you stick your arm from the front of the engine to the filter under the intake. If it has AC I go from the fender, just stick my arm between the frame and fender. Both I use a strap type wrench.

03-11-2008, 05:55 PM	#9 (permalink)
foot0069 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Petersburg va. Posts: 329	I have a strap type wrench with a swivel where the strap clenches that makes it really easy going through the access cover in the fender. Jim

03-12-2008, 09:48 AM	#11 (permalink)
MMA_Alex Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Downeast, ME/Rochester, NY Posts: 1,421	yeah i've never had to remove the plate for a stock size filter (got a fl1a on there now, and I had to remove the plate) i have a filter wrench for it, but never have had to use it...its always been loose enough to unscrew by hand. be careful if you use a filter wrench to screw it on be reaaaaly gentle. they're supposed to be hand tight without the wrench

03-12-2008, 01:14 PM	#16 (permalink)
MMA_Alex Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Downeast, ME/Rochester, NY Posts: 1,421	they'll always tighten over time because of the heat, but i've yet to need a filter wrench on my truck, and i've changed the filter a number of times.

03-12-2008, 04:49 PM	#17 (permalink)
HelliphinoN8 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Queen Creek,AZ Posts: 136	Hand tighten with a thin film of oil on the gasket. If you dont think it's tight enough or you just wanna check, just reach your damn arm in there and check. Also, Here's an AWESOME tip!! Srew that small ass stock filter. Use a PH8A V-8 sized filter. That way you can throw a full 5 quarts in the engine and have more filter to keep that crap clean. Use 20-50w oil and it'll give your timing chain and guides a little longer life. I live in PHX, AZ so I use 20-50w all year, you may want to use a little lighter oil in cooler climates.

03-13-2008, 12:21 AM	#18 (permalink)
deyodragon Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Camp Meeker, Ca Posts: 13	I was just gonna suggest the Fram PH8A myself! I got a tough guard (or is it the extra guard?) , with internal valves to keep oil in the filter for well lubed starts. More filter, more oil, same threads and gasket. Can you beat it?

03-13-2008, 05:28 AM	#21 (permalink)
ozziesironmanoffroad Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Spring Valley, CA Posts: 5,676	big pita i agree with the PO __________________ The 22r series engines are made from the fires of hell, and will fight tooth and nail to not be sent back. 1988 Toyota P/U 4x4 22re, 1200 miles on the rebuild engine builder .268 cam pioneer CD deck 31x10.50x15 BFG A/T BAJA 100W lights on prerunner bumper KC Daylighters 100W rancho rs5000 MUD IS A VALID PAINT JOB! If not living life to the fullest, why live it? my trucks official buildup thread

03-14-2008, 06:25 PM	#23 (permalink)
Georgiadave Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Marietta, Georgia Posts: 176	You might consider a remote filter kit, it the present location is that difficult for you, or you don't like the oil leaking on the block and crossarm. If the filter is on too tight, wrap a strip of sandpaper about 3 X 8 long around the filter, it will give you more grip to turn the filter by hand. Unless you have very big arms, you should be able to access the filter from directly in front of the battery.

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