shar

friends,
I have 87 4runner and my head gasket blew 3 weeks ago. so as a quick fix I bought a used engine off a craiglist. guy is a mechanic and told me, the engine came out of a running truck. so I put new timing chain, timing chain cover, new oil pump, both main oil seals(front and rear). put the engine back on and start right away. check the cylinder compression 120 all around(its low compression but running good).


*************** problem*****************
when the engine revs, oil coming through dipstick hole, its spraying all over. then I able to stuck the dipstick tight and it wont comes out easy. then I took it to driving on freeway its leaking oil from the rear of the engine. when its idling, its not leaking oil from the rear.


**************** Observation and checked **************

• I checked all the vacuum line blocks and new PCV valve.
• when I open the oil cap oil spraying from it too
• check for any vacuum leaks using un-lit propane torch - nothing found
• after pressing break (this is automatic transmission)at the stop, the RPM drops from 800 to 400 and start shaking

this is my daily ride to school and needs to get it run, I need all advice I can get and get this fix.




:s afari::saf ari:

millball

If the PCV system checks out OK, its very likely that your new engine has extreme blowby, usually caused by seriously worn rings.

The low compression numbers are a bad sign.

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

It does sound like a bunk motor with extreme blow-by. Compression test asap.

bswarm

What do the spark plugs look like?

mct75

Leakdown test!

shar

it has a new spark plugs and they looks clean. once engine started I can see that water drops comes out the tail pipe (I think that's a good sign for better fuel burn)

greyheadedguy

If you still have the old engine and If you didn't drive it much that blown head gasket is not that difficult of a repair. Make sure you chase your head bolt holes and have no fluids in them that is a big part of the battle if your head isn't warped. Make sure to check your block too and make sure they meet spec. Don't waste your money on cheap head gasket, bad place to go cheap. Replace your water pump while your there, consider oil pump... and you might even give your rings/cylinders a good look at while you are there. Thew head will tell you a lot about your engine. While you're working on the head replace the oil seals on the valves, takes 10 - 15 minutes...

Your old engine, assuming it is a 22R(E) is going to be better bet to rebuild/repair...

Good luck,

grey

shar

thank you very much for everybody's help, especially "greyheadedguy", I decided to rebuilt the engine. so I took the head off and found (0.75) on top of the piston. so my question what should be the ring size I order. maybe this is stupid question, this is my first time and don't want to have any problems. thanks

greyheadedguy

Wish I could help you, my pistons were stamped with 3s and other number like 2, and 4. You need to measure your cylinders. Harbor freight has a set of telescoping Gauges that you can run down into your cylinders to check the wear on them and the measure with a caliper. Not the best way in the world but will get the job done for about $30. I'm wondering if you have over sized pistons, oversized by .75? Get the tools to measure the cylinders and pistons to make sure you get the right size rings. It is the only way you will know for sure. Make sure you get a thing of assembly grease to put it together.

Good luck,

grey

millball

.75 is almost certainly 3/4mm oversize

bswarm

.75 is 0.75mm oversize, which is about 0.30" over stock bore size. Before putting rings in it would be a good idea to measure the cylinder at the top, but under the ridge. Otherwise you may have the same problem and will have to bore/new piston or find another block. Or check the ring end gap with a new set of rings, if it's over 0.50mm it's time for bore/pistons.