Stomis

Yep bent a rod up today. Its knockin but nothing horrible. Really comes alive around 4000rpms. Anyway now that the 3.0 is just about shot (minus daily driving) I'm looking into my engine swap options. Its definatly a price oriented swap here since I'll be doing my SAS before the motor swap. So what should it be 22re, 22re turbo, 3.4, one of these "strong" 3.0's with cam and valves I'm hearing about? I'm considering just throwing in a TPI 305 or 350 out of a third generation camaro and calling it a day. Thoughts?

Elton

man im glad my 3.0L is gone i say a 3.4L swap

Stomis

From the looks of it i'll be doing a 22re with a brand new engnbldr performance head and a low torque cam. Brandnew bearings, pistons, rods, cam, head, rebuild. Should be much peppier than the 3.0.

Elton

cant go wrong with a 22re i had one it was awesome but i killed it

zbadboy69

I have not done a 3.4 swap or a swap to a 22RE. However, I have done a change in engine type in other vehicles. My advice would be to stay with the existing motor that your vehicle was designed for. If you want a 3.4 or 22RE, buy a vehicle that has one already in the vehicle. You will be far ahead of the game. Elton mentions he is glad he got rid of the 3.0 and now has the 3.4 You notice he obtained his 3.4 by buying a vehicle that already had one installed. If you plan to do the work yourself, shop around for a good used 3.0 do aquick swap and sell the vehicle and purchase one with the engine of choice.

Stomis

Hopefully I'll be building it unkillable. Engnbldr.com rebuild with their low end cam, brand new racing head with oversized valves. Treated rods so i never bed another one of them and FI ontop.

Stomis

Not an option.

zbadboy69

Is it not an option because of money?

Stomis

Its not an option because my truck is nowheres near in condition to get anywhere near the money out of it that I have in. I'd rather just press on with it build a sweet 22re for $1500 and spend another $500 to drop it in. Only problem is I have no idea on gauges or fuel tank because I cant seem to find anyone thats done a 3.0 to 22re.

zbadboy69

I am not sure what the difference would be with the gauges or the fuel tank? I know you would need a different ECU and I don't think it will bolt up directly to your existing tranny. Do you have a 5spd or auto?

Elton

also the 3.0L drivetrain wont work with a 22re from what i heard

90RunnerRed

I've done the 3.0 to a 22RE swap. All in all not that hard. You have to cut the engine mounts off and weld in some 22RE engine mounts. That is the hardest part. Otherwise, like said you will need the ECU and wiring harness from a 22RE. The gauges from a 3.0 will work, but you're RPM's will read low if you have a tach. I changed mine out for that reason. Plus I was more concerned with the miles the engine/tranny had on it. It is very beneficial to have a donor vehicle next to you. The fuel system is the same so nothing needs to be done there. You just take the extension line off and screw the 22RE line in. Anyways, I'll stop writing now.

Stomis

Ah great to know. Guess I'll just grab an aftermarket tac. How hard is the actually wiring harness part? Do I only need to reroute the engine functions like engines sensors, ect and leave the rest of the harness? I know I'll need the ecu obviously but is there a sticky to this swap somewhere?

Also anyone with 22re experience have anything to say on having aftermarket cam/heads with the stock computer?

As for a 3.0 drivetrain not working with a 22re that not right. 22re turbos use a bell housing that goes from a 22re block to a w56(v6 tranny) then to a v6 transfer case.

toy power

don't buy another tach. you can adjust the one you have. the whole cluster is the same whether 22r or v6, there is a potentiometer on that tach, you can reach it by removing the speedo. hook up another tach thats accurate and adjust it to read correctly

Stomis

Alright thanks for the tach advise.

Runner I gotta ask whats the approach for welding in the motor mounts? Do you float the motor over the frame with them bolted up and let the weight drop onto the frame then weld em in or is there a jig of some sort?