jjrbus

I have a 93 Toyota RV with the 3VZE motor and about 98K on it.

I am trying to muddle my way through this. So far I am sure it is electrical in nature as I have no spark at plugs. Good battery, turns over good, starting fluid did nothing and no spark at plug. Distributor is turning.

I was able to use a coil and ICM to test and it still no start. Plus bench tested old coil and seems ok. Have 12V at coil positive with ignition on.

I want to know if I am getting spark from the coil to the distributor and do not know how to check it, seems I have memory's of an awful jolt a long time ago that I do not want to repete.

I have read 50 articles about checking for spark and they all start with remove spark plug.

How do I test if spark is going from coil to distributor without electrocuting myself or burning out coil? Jim

rustypigeon

Just unplug the high tension lead from the center of the distributor and connect your grounded spark tester to it.

Here is a link with all the steps to take when you get a no-spark condition. Did you do everything on this flowchart?
http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhake...12onvehicl.pdf

jjrbus

Thanks for the response, spark checker and coil wire are not compatible. Jim

rustypigeon

Unplug the center distributor wire and secure the metal contact about 1/4" away from a ground (not near the battery obviously). Use tape or something so that is does not fall away from the ground when you are cranking the engine.

More importantly, follow the steps in the link I provided above. That will narrow down your trouble area.

jjrbus

Thanks, Don't want to get shock and was not sure if I could damage coil?

I have been trying to follow procedure.

I get no spark from coil checked Ohms on coil wire and is good.

I have no spark at plug's. I have 12V at the positive termial of coil. I ohm'ed primary and secondary coil and within specs. I ohm'ed coil pickup and it is withing specs.

Expert advice is to try replacing coil. Jim

rustypigeon

Did you check the resistance of the leads? Should be no more than 25k ohm per cord. If the cord going to the center of the distributor is bad, you will not get spark to any cylinders.

You can also check that you get spark right out of the coil itself by securing a grounded wire 1/4" away from the terminal coming out of the coil itself and checking for spark. This will eliminate everything downstream of the coil as a problem.

rustypigeon

The pickup coil may be within spec, but that does not mean the signal is making it to the ECM. Go to page EG2-185 and EG2-195 in the following link. You should have a pulse between terminals IGT and E1 when backprobing them at the ECM.

http://htftp.offroadsz.com/marinhake...86troubles.pdf

Your multimeter will not be fast enough to read the pulse, but it may show a small voltage when the engine is cranking. It would be easier to use a computer safe LED testlight at the IGT terminal at the ECM. It should show a dim flash when the engine is cranking.

I would not spend money on replacing the coil unless I was sure that it was the problem.

jjrbus

Thanks for the response, have a bit to do and then will try to get a computer safe LED test light.

I keep seeing reference to Check Engine Light. Do I have a check engine light?

93 toyota v6 auto with instrument pod without tachometer. Jim

rustypigeon

It normally comes on when you turn the ignition to ON without starting the engine. If you don't see it then, it is not operating properly.

jjrbus

So a 93 Toyota pickup, V6 auto should have a check engine light.

Somewhere in the hundreds of things I read was a reference to ECM and no chek engine light. Can't remember what or where it was.
Jim

jjrbus

I have gone through this as best I can. Ohm readings for coil and distributor and wires are within spec's. Fuses are all good. I was able to get an ignitor and coil to test with and still not start. I have cleaned all connections, they do not appear corroded or damaged. There is power to the ECM. I pulled the check engine light bulb and it is good, but grounding proper wire at ECU plug does not turn it on? With ignition on of course.

Tomorrow I will pick up a computer safe test light from Harbor Freight, does this one seem ok?

http://www.harborfreight.com/compute...obe-98709.html

Much of this seems like rocket science to me, I found a u tube video that makes it much clearer.

jjrbus

Picked up a computer safe tester and just spend the better part of an hour trying to get a connection at the ECM connector, the wires are too short, my eyes are not that good and I just cannot get into it!

Any other suggestions? Jim

jjrbus

I noted that the wire on the ECM is black with a blue stripe and see the same wire on the ignitor plug. I put a probe in the wire and checked with my computer safe logic probe and have a constant green (ground) light. I see no flashing when trying to start.

Any thoughts ideas, suggestions? Jim