No wonder My clutch felt so bad
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
No wonder My clutch felt so bad
Since I've had my 4runner it has had problem with clutch chatter on engagement, sometimes bad sometimes not so bad.
Since It is our 3rd car and we don't drive it much I have not worried too much about it. Since summer is coming I want to take the top off and drive it so time for a new clutch.
I ordered Marlins heavy duty clutch, flywheel, shifter seat and clutch bolts and a new rear main seal from Toyota. I bought the $100.00 tranny jack from Harbor Freight and pulled the trans yesterday.
I knew what to expect and wasn't suprised to find the old rear main seal leaking. The pressure plate and flywheel are very glazed and the bellhousing was full of black goo.
I thought you might like to see some pics...
I installed the main seal today and now I am just waiting for my parts from Marlin.
When I bought my pickup the previous owner had just had a new clutch installed to the tune of $1200.00 I am wayyy too cheap for that.
I am looking forward to some smooth cruising soon. Now I just need to relace the timing chain, ect, ect
Robb
Since It is our 3rd car and we don't drive it much I have not worried too much about it. Since summer is coming I want to take the top off and drive it so time for a new clutch.
I ordered Marlins heavy duty clutch, flywheel, shifter seat and clutch bolts and a new rear main seal from Toyota. I bought the $100.00 tranny jack from Harbor Freight and pulled the trans yesterday.
I knew what to expect and wasn't suprised to find the old rear main seal leaking. The pressure plate and flywheel are very glazed and the bellhousing was full of black goo.
I thought you might like to see some pics...
I installed the main seal today and now I am just waiting for my parts from Marlin.
When I bought my pickup the previous owner had just had a new clutch installed to the tune of $1200.00 I am wayyy too cheap for that.
I am looking forward to some smooth cruising soon. Now I just need to relace the timing chain, ect, ect
Robb
#2
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: maple ridge, British Columbia, Canada
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Good call on the marlin setup, you will love it!
I almost fell off my chair when the local shop quoted me 1200+ for a clutch job. I think with all my "performance" parts I did it for around 450. Yay for DIY
I almost fell off my chair when the local shop quoted me 1200+ for a clutch job. I think with all my "performance" parts I did it for around 450. Yay for DIY
#3
Registered User
Make Sure...
you thoroughly clean the flywheel and pressure plate to get rid of any oily residue from shipping. If you don't, you'll have another chattery clutch.
Also by the looks of it your trans input shaft seal should be replaced as well.
And don't put too much lube on the splines.
Also by the looks of it your trans input shaft seal should be replaced as well.
And don't put too much lube on the splines.
#4
Registered User
I guess having never had any standard trannies I don't understand how some stuff on the pressure plate will make it chatter. Won't all that oil and fluid just burn off when the plate engages the flywheel?
Sorry for the rookie question.
Sorry for the rookie question.
#5
X2
Replace the transmission input seal..... $3 part will prevent the mess you got now.
Clean the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces with and oil-free solvent; i.e. brake cleaner.
Have you put a new input shaft bearing in the crankshaft? No? You can pound the old one out by packing the bearing space, through the hole, with wheel bearing grease and finding a very close fitting socket turned backwards and pound the grease. It will drive out the bearing. CAREFULLY tap the new bearing in and DON'T hit the inner race. Smooth the crankshaft hole with emery paper just prior to putting in the new bearing.
My $0.02
Replace the transmission input seal..... $3 part will prevent the mess you got now.
Clean the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces with and oil-free solvent; i.e. brake cleaner.
Have you put a new input shaft bearing in the crankshaft? No? You can pound the old one out by packing the bearing space, through the hole, with wheel bearing grease and finding a very close fitting socket turned backwards and pound the grease. It will drive out the bearing. CAREFULLY tap the new bearing in and DON'T hit the inner race. Smooth the crankshaft hole with emery paper just prior to putting in the new bearing.
My $0.02
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Good call on the input shaft seal, I hadn't thought of that.
New pilot bearing on the way also, I pulled the old one yesterday. I am a bicycle mechanic so I remove and install alot of sealed beaings.
Is there a trick for pulling the input shaft seal and installing the new one? I'm sure I can figure it out but will take any help available.
I will definitely clean the new flywheel and pressure plate before installing them. I used to have a 67 Camaro and replaced alot of clutches.
Thanks guys!
Robb
New pilot bearing on the way also, I pulled the old one yesterday. I am a bicycle mechanic so I remove and install alot of sealed beaings.
Is there a trick for pulling the input shaft seal and installing the new one? I'm sure I can figure it out but will take any help available.
I will definitely clean the new flywheel and pressure plate before installing them. I used to have a 67 Camaro and replaced alot of clutches.
Thanks guys!
Robb
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#8
Good write up nmtoy. I like the way you documented it with pictures.
That pressure plate machined surface looks trashed. Do you have any pictures of the old clutch disk? Just curious what it looks like.
That pressure plate machined surface looks trashed. Do you have any pictures of the old clutch disk? Just curious what it looks like.
Last edited by zlathim; 03-27-2008 at 06:56 PM. Reason: I'm an idiot and din't see that he bought a new flywheel in the first post.
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
The disc doesn't look that worn but it's really glazed. Once engaged it worked fine but taking off was a pain.
#11
Registered User
Good call on the input shaft seal, I hadn't thought of that.
New pilot bearing on the way also, I pulled the old one yesterday. I am a bicycle mechanic so I remove and install alot of sealed beaings.
Is there a trick for pulling the input shaft seal and installing the new one? I'm sure I can figure it out but will take any help available.
I will definitely clean the new flywheel and pressure plate before installing them. I used to have a 67 Camaro and replaced alot of clutches.
Thanks guys!
Robb
New pilot bearing on the way also, I pulled the old one yesterday. I am a bicycle mechanic so I remove and install alot of sealed beaings.
Is there a trick for pulling the input shaft seal and installing the new one? I'm sure I can figure it out but will take any help available.
I will definitely clean the new flywheel and pressure plate before installing them. I used to have a 67 Camaro and replaced alot of clutches.
Thanks guys!
Robb
what shop do you work for in NM? I'm a fork tech for PUSH industries. If you've ever sent us suspension we've probably talked on the phone. Good job on the clutch. I'm about to tackle this one myself.
Eric
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
I finally got my parts from Marlin yesterday.
New flywheel
New HD pressure plate (sorry no pic)
New disc
New throwout bearing
New pilot bearing
New shifter seat
*New grade 8 clutch plate bolts* They only sent 4 and they are the wrong ones...
While my junk was apart I replaced the rear main seal and the input shaft seal. I also cleaned the trans, it was filthy!
The outside of the trans looked like this too!
Clean and ready to install.
I made a little tool to hold the flywheel while I torqued the flywheel and clutch bolts.
The trans went in really easily and since I was working alone I was really glad.
The clutch feels great, pedal pressure is about the same as before but it is quiet and smooth now.
The old shifter seat was not worn out but the new one is much tighter and there is no play in the shifter.
All in all everything went well. I didn't replace the master and slave cylinders since they are not leaking but will eventually do them anyway.
New flywheel
New HD pressure plate (sorry no pic)
New disc
New throwout bearing
New pilot bearing
New shifter seat
*New grade 8 clutch plate bolts* They only sent 4 and they are the wrong ones...
While my junk was apart I replaced the rear main seal and the input shaft seal. I also cleaned the trans, it was filthy!
The outside of the trans looked like this too!
Clean and ready to install.
I made a little tool to hold the flywheel while I torqued the flywheel and clutch bolts.
The trans went in really easily and since I was working alone I was really glad.
The clutch feels great, pedal pressure is about the same as before but it is quiet and smooth now.
The old shifter seat was not worn out but the new one is much tighter and there is no play in the shifter.
All in all everything went well. I didn't replace the master and slave cylinders since they are not leaking but will eventually do them anyway.
#16
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Thread Starter
Robb
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
It was well worth the time it took. I have been driving it around all day and it's really nice. I should have done it a long time ago.
I am very impressed with the Marlin clutch, no difference in pedal pressure but it feels very positive when engaged.
I left my sway bar off and there is no noticable difference in cornering at city speeds. (not like my runner handled like a sports car to begin with)
My runner went from no fun to drive to my favorite truck again!
Robb
#18
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: chippawa niagara falls ontario
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i just took my trail rig for its virgin trail run and lost my clutch so i may be doing this!!!!
unless i s.a.s or do up my d.d..
great post and work...
now i know i have to remove tranny!
unless i s.a.s or do up my d.d..
great post and work...
now i know i have to remove tranny!
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
It's not hard but it is alot of work. I highly recommend the Marlin HD clutch kit and would do the rear main and input shaft seals as well.
good luck!
Robb
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