addicted56

Ok guys,

This is Copy pasted from my "Cracked cylinder thread" I replced the old engine with a "known" running engine. Got it all ready to go and then the following problem below. Maybe you can help me figure it out so when I go back to the garage on post I can get it going.



OK WTF. My little sister taught me that acronym.

Anyway Took me about 2 hours to do all the following. Drag that car over to the another parking lot drain the fuel put new fuel in. Then I got it back filled her with coolant, power steering fluid and engine oil. I finished getting all the hoses on and all but one of the electrical plugs. I hooked up the battery put on the air intake and I cranked her over...and cranked her over...and over and over and over.

I did a little checking and I wasn't getting any fuel to the rails WHAT SO EVER. It wasn't even making it to the engine. So here come the famous questions.

#1: Would I be able to hear the fuel pump in the tank running (I think I would)...especially if my ear was right on the tank when the key was on right before I actually engaged the starter.

#2: My manual sucks!!! Where is the relay for the pump???

#3: There was one fuse missing in the engine bay..a 15 amp that was labed CFI but I think it was suppossed to be an EFI that was rubbed off. Not the larger fuse that says EFI but the one right next to it. Anyway when I plugged that fuse in a check engine light came on. It wasn't there before.

#4: Could I have boogered up the fuel pump when I stuck my hose down in th tank to drain it? If so should I just order a pump or mess with the electrical first.

Again I am getting Zero fuel to the rails and I believe the pump not to be running.

The stinky part is if it is not electrical I can not do any more work at the garage which means i have to tow it to my parking lot at work lay some carpet down and drop the tank to replace it and then HOPE it works.

Ohh last question

#5: I wish I had a picture but...there is a small connector on the wiring harness that looks like it reaches down by the engine oil filter (right next to that large bulbed connection...that actually does plug in right next to the oil filter. I can not figure out where it connects to? Any ideas. I will try and grab some pictures sunday if I don't get the thing running.

I have to work all day helping my wife do something for work but Sunday I'm going to be back on it so I need all the suggestions I can get. Plan #1 and Plan #2 if #1 doesn't work type of thing. I hope I don't have to go to Toyota and get a fuel pump...#1 they are not open on the weekends and #2 that is just more money and ass pain.

Thanks guys...I really thought I was going to be there today. Never guessed a fuel pump.

abecedarian

No prob.
Copied and pasted my reply:
Whisky Tango Foxtrot... What The Fork.
Sounds like no fuel pressure
drumroll please....
Maybe.
Look for the "Circuit Opening Relay" in your diagrams.
And that didn't change anything?
Not likely it's boogered. Maybe bypass the wiring and power the fuel pump up that way and see what goes.
Burbour or shag?
Knock sensor?
Never can tell unless you bypass all the wiring and power the pump up separately.

addicted56

Thank you,

I'm going to try powering it directly right after I look for that "Circuit opening relay".

Every other electrical appuratus works on the truck.

Another thought is that if the fuel pump is running and I can not hear it that I have a completely clogged fuel filter. I doubt it though as the fuel I sucked out was clean as a whislte.

gte718p

Its fairly easy to pull the hose off the pump if gas spills out the pump works. You can disconnect the pump and put a multimeter across the lead you should get 12 volts with the key on. Its a little easier then hooking 12 volts to the pump. If your getting power hook 12 volts directly to the pump, if fuel comes out of the top of the pump you have a clogged line some where.
I this may be stating the obvious, but a clog is most likely in the fuel filter.

Flash319

The pump does not turn on until the AFM shows air flow and the main circuit relay pulls in. Its not a noisy chevy.........

addicted56

Notes Taken.

I know you can hear a chevy a mile away while running.

Of course the put the fuel filter right where you can't get it out without taking off the crossmember for the transfer case. I don't think there is a clog as the fuel I took out was spotless, but you never know. That is one more thing for me to check.

Can I get a multimeter up there to check it without dropping the tank?

abecedarian

the fuel pump should run a few seconds when you turn the key on then shut off. after that, it becomes the responsibility of the air flow meter to activate the fuel pump once it senses enough air being drawn through it by the engine cranking or running. so, if the pump isn't doing so, there may be a problem in the wiring to the ignition switch or the circuit openening relay may be bad.
the circuit opening relay is the fuel pump relay- it has two coils in it and one set of contacts. one coil is energized by the ignition switch, but has a simple 'timer' in it that de-energizes the coil after a few moments and the other coil is powered by the air flow meter contacts.

addicted56

OK,

I do not hear the fuel pump at all when I first crank it so I will check for the opening circuit relay.

Is the relay in the same spot on the 3.0 2nd gen runners as it is the 22re trucks (as this is the only diagram I have found so far that shows it?http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/l...rts_locati.jpg


I did install an aftermarket Downey intake with the truck so it is a possibility that it is not allowing the fuel pump to continue running after the initail few seconds. That intake did have the correct fitting for the AFM but it may be a possibilty it is not responding correctly. I don't think that is the problem though.

Can you get a new relay anywhere other than toyota...they are all closed on Sundays.

abecedarian

I don't think the intake should be affecting anything either, unless it's not sealing properly.
as for the relay, it should be in the same location.
if you can find a salvage yard open, you should be able to find one there. it's not likely to be a stocked item at other auto parts stores.

addicted56

You are right.

Not a single place in town has one. I'm going to have to wait until tomorrow afternoon to go pick up a relay.

When I turn the key I do not hear the relay at all (ear right up next to it). So I'm not sure if this is an indicator is does not work.

I did measure the resistance as indicated in the manual and O.L (out of limits) when I measured the Fp and +B. I figure that is the same as infinity?????

As for the other two measurements they were just outside the range indicated in the manual. A few ohms above each tolerance...is this an indication of anything?

I figure putting in a 10 dollar relay is easier than dropping the tank to see if power is getting back there. If the relay is not the problem and I do have to get a fuel pump than I'm going to have to either get a flat bed trailer and tow it home or just take it to a darn dealer becuase I cant do any fuel work in the shop I'm at on post....Gosh darn it so close to getting this thing started.

abecedarian

well, that relay is more like 110 from autozone. but maybe 10 at a wrecker.
O.L usually means 'overload' or 'over limit' and for resistance is usually means the same as infinity or the measurement is outside the scale range your meter is set at.

With the other two readings, a few extra ohms could be a sign of weak relay coils in there and that the contacts aren't pulling closed.

Since you're under there, you should be able to test the following-
the terminals on the relay should be arranged like this or similar, I put numbers to help ID, the plug will be reversed left-to-right:
< relay >
< plug >
Terminal 1 is FP and should be the power lead to the fuel pump.
Terminal 2 is B+ and should have battery voltage.
Terminal 3 comes from your ignition switch- you should have voltage there when trying to start the engine (cranking).
Terminal 4 GOES TO the AFM- you should have a voltage there.
Terminal 6 is ground and should be grounded at all times.

With the key on, jumpering terminals 1 & 2 should trigger the fuel pump.
With the key on, grounding terminal 4 should trigger the fuel pump.
Trying to start the engine should cause voltage to appear on terminal 3.

addicted56

NO WAY!!! 110 for a RELAY...that is outrageous. I really hope it is not that bad.

If it is I will try the junkyard route or the classifieds on here.

Ok so I think I understand you right. If I just take some spade jumpers and jump the points on the plug it would be like the relay was working and the pump should engage and techincally I could start the egnine if I had them all hooked up right?

Well hopefully that is the case.

addicted56

Well,

It was not the relay. I bypassed it as recommended and nothing.

I guess I'm off to Autozone to buy a replacement fuel pump.

By the way the relay new at Toyota was 88 dollars and a fuel pump was 308. I thought 138 at Autozone for the fuel pump was a little high. I guess I have lost touch with reality. Or is it that the auto industry has lost touch with reality. I think the latter of the two.

addicted56

Ending this thread and continuing back on page 5 of "Cracked cylinder".

I figured no need to repeat.

Turns out it was not the relay. Double verified. I went and got a fuel pump at advanced and will put in tomorrow.