snowbrdr

I'm sure this has been touched on before. I have an 1989 toyota SR5 pickup with the V6 3L 3VZE engine. I just completed a rebuild from the short block up which include, new gaskets, new head bolts, new radiator, new timing belt, new water pump, new thermostat, new plugs, new vacuum hoses, new idler's, new rad hoses, and re ground shims and set back to factory settings so no ticking anymore. The truck ran good before i blew the head gasket. Now everything is back together start fine runs a little bit low on the rpm's in neutral around 500. It rev's up fine in neutral but as soon as you put it into gear and put any load on it at all it bogs right down i mean i can have it matted and it's barely gets going. I'm thinking I am either having a fuel pressure problem or some kind of vacuum issue. Any help would be much appreciated!

RJR

Check for codes first (especially code 52, knock sensor). Then ignition timing. Then for vacuum leaks. Those are the big 3. If nothing there, it'll require digging deeper.

snowbrdr

I set the timing and it's bang on I'll check the vacuum tonight when i get home. Any suggestions on easiest way to check for codes?

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Here is some pics and info https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51760299

snowbrdr

Oh awesome just what i needed! So those codes would be the same for the 3L as well?

Gevo

I think so, but here is link directly to what you want. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...85diagnosi.pdf

blueaussie

Snowbro, I
Have the exact same problems for over a year. Did you have any luck at all. I am desperate ready to throw in the towel and part it out, sad thing is mine looks brand new inside, outside is great except for a little paint fade. I would appreciate anything you could help with . The dealer would not even work on mine.

Thanks

snowbrdr

So i went through the vacuum line no leaks that i could find. So i went back and messed around with the timing. I had the timing set to exactly 10 degrees which is what it called for on the label on the bottom side of the hood. I was at my bosses place and we popped the hood because it wouldn't start and he says let's try advancing the timing some more and sure enough fired up great and idled at 1000 rpm. I'll check tonight see what the timings at now but for right now it's running pretty good with a slight hiccup once in a while hopefully i can dial it in over the next couple of days. I will mention that when advancing the timing we actually pulled the distributor and advanced it 1 tooth on the gear. I'm thinking that the motors been worked on before and whoever pulled the distributor set it back in wrong because it never really ran 100% before the overhaul.

coltonstewart

Im having a very similar issue on my 92 3VZE!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52202489

It revs up slower, idles much slower and i can hardly get it above 40 mph. The more load there is the less gas i can give it as as if its starved for fuel. When i hit the throttle fast it studders. My idle is around 500 - 800 rpm.

I tried to get a diagnostic, both from the computer at auto zone and the manual method with the dash codes...

I HAVE NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT at all during ignition I think my ECU might be toast?

snowbrdr

try advancing the timing like i did. before i took it all apart it would only idle around 500rpm as well but it had power.

blueaussie

Thanks, I'm beginning to believe that myself about the distributor.
Thanks I appreciate it. I have fought with this go almost 2 years now. So tired of it.
Thanks for
Your input.

coltonstewart

Hmm I dont think thats it the engine has not been rebuilt recently, I havent moved the distributor or the timing belt in any way unless the belt can slip a tooth during downshift or something. It doesnt overheat or sound bad.. and it runs

Ill have to check the timing anyways

snowbrdr

I read somewhere sometimes if a timing belt is old it'll stretch out and possibly can slip a tooth. Just try it with the truck running and loosen the 1 adjustment screw off and try slowly twisting the distributor.

hiluxhack

Sounds like stopped up or crimped exhaust. Also, did you put the timing in bypass before using a timing light?

snowbrdr

Exhaust is new and yes it was in bypass when setting the timing.

Innocent Fool

When you check your timing don't just check the distributor. Pull the timing belt cover off and check the cam timing. Do the cam marks line up properly? While it's there pop the distributor cap and ensure the rotor is in fact pointing to #1.

blueaussie

Checked my distrutor and is a factory distributor. When I went to set the timing you could not get it to retard the timing at all with no more movement allowed it will only stay a 10 degrees BTDC. I suppose this is good since that is what the specs call for. It sure gets old driving Round like your trying to pull a long freight train and can't get idle set right. To add to my problems while driving around brakes are at the wear marks....When it rains it pours!

snowbrdr

Timing marks are all lined up.

blueaussie

Ok, I think I found the problem, I advanced my timing I'm guessing to 15 degrees and thi thing took off. No longer sluggish, so much easier to get up to 70 MPH. The difference is like between. Night and day. Can somebody chime in and let me know if this means it jumped timing because if I set it back to specs it will run like a dawg!

blueaussie

Snowboard sorry for piggy backing but I think you helped me a lot !