No power problem!
#1
No power problem!
Hey guys,
I own a 95 Got a 4R. Runs and drives smooth. It has 245k original on the 3.0v6. While driving at highway speeds, coming up normal highway hill inclines at 70mph, I will lose speed. I can adjust throttle to 75%-100% and will stay at the current speed. But it won't accelerate up these hills. Btw this is in 5th gear just for clarification. The truck has a 3.0 inch body lift and I'm running BFG 33/15/1050 AT KO's on it. Any ideas?
I know for a fact that the timing is correct. So I'm at your mercy. I have not done compression tests, as I'm scared that will be my issue.
I own a 95 Got a 4R. Runs and drives smooth. It has 245k original on the 3.0v6. While driving at highway speeds, coming up normal highway hill inclines at 70mph, I will lose speed. I can adjust throttle to 75%-100% and will stay at the current speed. But it won't accelerate up these hills. Btw this is in 5th gear just for clarification. The truck has a 3.0 inch body lift and I'm running BFG 33/15/1050 AT KO's on it. Any ideas?
I know for a fact that the timing is correct. So I'm at your mercy. I have not done compression tests, as I'm scared that will be my issue.
#4
Registered User
Moving 2 tons uphill @ 70 mph takes some power, accelerating from 70 mph in 5th gear while travelling uphill takes even more power.
Your 3vz-e only made about 150hp when it was brand new, now its got a quarter million miles on it.
I think you're expecting too much. A stock 4Runner is no muscle car.
Your 3vz-e only made about 150hp when it was brand new, now its got a quarter million miles on it.
I think you're expecting too much. A stock 4Runner is no muscle car.
Last edited by millball; 08-22-2014 at 09:54 AM.
#6
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I agree with previous posters. That's pretty normal behavior for a 3.0 in a 4runner, especially with 33 inch tires and the stock 4.56 gears. If you want to be able to accelerate going uphill at 70mph in 5th gear you need a bigger engine or 4.88 or up gears.
Once thing you can do is run mid-grade gasoline. The ECU will advance the timing further because of the lower propensity to knock, and give you a bit more power. The effect is noticeable, and the increase in fuel mileage just about exactly pays for the increased gasoline price. About 5% increase in mileage, power, and cost.
Once thing you can do is run mid-grade gasoline. The ECU will advance the timing further because of the lower propensity to knock, and give you a bit more power. The effect is noticeable, and the increase in fuel mileage just about exactly pays for the increased gasoline price. About 5% increase in mileage, power, and cost.
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#9
Aloha from Hawaii, I've been dealing with a similar issue, but with loss of power even at low speeds and small hills. It started after I did my own water pump and timing belt (which I re-did 3 times). I took my truck to a mechanic and it turns out that my timing belt was off by 1 tooth on the camshafts...I was so sure I had done it right and had everything lined up...He also told me after doing a compression leak down test that my cylinder #2 is misfiring...screw me...I had tested compression myself and all 6 cylinders tested good with an average of 145psi, but I was not able to perform the leak down test which the mechanic said shows that #2 cylinder is not holding pressure. What can I do at this point? Is it ok to drive my truck? Any suggestions as to what could cause the misfire? Mahalo!
#10
Registered User
If the misfire is originating in # 2 cylinder, the same cyl that your mechanic says has a compression problem, I think you may likely have found the reason for the misfire.
I'd check the valve clearances, and if loosening up some tight valves does'nt restore the compression, It's probably valve job time, or engine overhaul time.
I'd check the valve clearances, and if loosening up some tight valves does'nt restore the compression, It's probably valve job time, or engine overhaul time.
#11
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My 94 pickup wouldn't do 70 downhill in a hurricane. That was with a 22re and 31" tires. I'm pretty sure what you're experiencing is completely normal. 5th gear, wow. I never get to use 5th gear. Pretty sure my 89 would do 70 but not in 5th gear or uphill in 3rd.
#12
Registered User
Be happy you can do that, with 33x10.5s on mine I would routinely need to drop to 3rd to keep it above 60 on even the slightest inclines; the idea of 70 uphill was just off the table.
I know this isn't the answer you want to hear, but you're about as good as you're going to get with a 3.0, you may see a little (emphasis on LITTLE) benefit from headers and a high flow muffler but that's about it. You'll see your best improvement by re-gearing to 4.88s, but that won't give you any more power, it'll just move the engine's power band back in-line with the transmission gear ratios for optimal drive-ability. Don't waste your time on an intake (unless its $20 for an ISR, which only helps throttle response, but does nothing for overall power), unless you personally own stock in any of those companies or enjoy throwing away money.
Personally, the only cure to the "problem" you have is to swap a different motor; that's ultimately why I, and a lot of others, have a 3.4 swapped in, while others opted for even bigger, more powerful motors. I feel that the 3.4 was the motor that should have been in these trucks, its just too bad that it took Toyota until 95.5/96 to introduce them.
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