No power.. at all.
#1
No power.. at all.
Okay so i have searched and searched and came up with the same result.. Nada.. I have a 93 yota single cab 5 spd with a brand new 22re in it. less than 1,000 miles. My problem is i replaced the old 260,000 mile motor because it was gutless and had low compression. And now that the new motor is in it i can feel a little difference but it is still lacking any power at all. I have cleaned the throttle body, set the tps the best i could. Timing is at 5 degrees and rpm at idle with everything off is 750. The one thing that is baffling me is that no matter what rpm i set it too, 750, 900, 1100, when i am coming to a stop with the a/c on the fuel cutoff kicks in and it stumbles to around 500-600 rpm and then slowly comes back to normal idle. It idles a little rough even at 750. I have not changed the o2 sensor or maf. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and it has new plugs and wires, cap and rotor. Please point me in some kind of direction. I am a good mechanic so you can throw me anything abnd ill check it out. This one dang motor is just killing me with all its little quirks lol..
#3
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Are you sure all of the vacuum hoses are hooked up corectly ?, you also need to make sure the TPS is adjusted properly and is not bad, because it can effect your idle as well. Are you sure the timming is set properly, and what about the valves, have you rechecked the clearance ?, all of these things can cause the problems your having, so im just throwing out ideas of what it could be.
#4
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I understand your frustration. I am having the exact same problems. I have a brand new rebuilt 22re that I have done myself. New Head and valves and all. Only difference mine is bored 40 out. I have tried increasing the timing but get pre spark. i tried reducing timing and get lag. I tried new maf and nothing. New plugs new O2 sensor, new fuel filter new fuel pump. I have tried numerous things and still have yet to have any pep what so ever. I tried try messing with the tps and still nothing. I am idling at about 800 right now and sometime is goes down to about 500 then back up. It idles a little rough at 800 as well. I was wondering if I had to do something different because Im bored out? Maybe mess with the gears on the MAF?
#5
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Is there an issue with the knock sensor? That will automatically tell the ECU to retard ignition to 0 degrees giving you zero power.
Also, "messing with the TPS" without knowing what your doing will probably turn out badly....
Also, "messing with the TPS" without knowing what your doing will probably turn out badly....
#6
Lol.. i understand messing with the tps without knowing what im doing will turn out badly but let me just say that i was and electronics technician for 8 years on a nuclear submarine. I have been using a multimeter for eons. Now i have never adjusted a tps but compared to a satellite communications ehf antenna im sure its not as tempermental. I havent sprayed under the hood with carb cleaner to actually check all the lines but i am pretty durn sure they are all good. The valves were adjusted by a mechanic and set at 8/12 hot. they sound good and i can barely hear them. i dont think they are too tight though cause i am not getting any pressure out the valve cover. and on the knock sensor thing.. How do i check it. I know if i advanbce the timing to around 8 degress i get spark knock. so i have it set at five.
#7
crap i forgot to say also.. i have a few small exhaust leaks i am waiting on parts to fix. Would that cause this. ? i have one up between the manifold and the collector so that one is before the o2 sensor? Also it is running super rich. it just doesnt smell like a new motor if you know what i mean
Last edited by bigblockmaverick; 06-13-2009 at 07:14 AM.
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#8
okay so i found the connector on the vsv ( i think, its the one farthest forward on the valve cover with the little airfilter looking thing on it). One of the wire is broke and not connected so where to i get a new connector? or can i pull the connector and get some small female connectors to slide over the blades. Will that work or does it need to be watertight.
#9
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oh...thats probably the VSV for the A/C idle up....since you say it runs like crap when you turn a/c on and are idling, then that wire is probably not allowing the A/C idle up to operate. Try just fixing the wire.
Also, the exhaust leak before the O2 sensor could very well make you run rich.
Also, the exhaust leak before the O2 sensor could very well make you run rich.
Last edited by toyota4x4907; 06-13-2009 at 04:43 PM.
#11
okay so i just fixed the a/c idle problem and now it idles right and pretty good actually. when the a/c is on she is around 900-950 and its pretty smooth but when the a/c is off and its at 750ish then its idle is rough.
#12
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Try bumping the idle to 800 rpm and adjust the timing accordingly. Both my '93 and '88 idled rough at 750, but once I increased it to 800, they were almost as smooth as butter
Also, the exhaust leak(s) could contribute to the rough idle.
Also, the exhaust leak(s) could contribute to the rough idle.
Last edited by toyota4x4907; 06-13-2009 at 05:39 PM.
#13
yeah. i agree i just hate high idling motors.. but i guess shes not showroom anymore lol.. I think i am gonna go ahead and replace the o/2 sensor since i think that is the cause of the rich running
#14
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If you google / search a bit, there are easy test procedures for the O2 sensor(s) in our trucks, and the signal wires are accessible within the diagnostic connector under the hood.
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