YotaSnap

Before engine rebuild = extreme heat
After rebuild = freezing

I removed the heater hoses and attached a garden hose. ... water ran through.

Its blew hot air for a while. Nothing like before the rebuild though.

Blower fan works.

No coolant loss.

The heat adj lever broke so I set it manually.

Any idea why I'm still blowing cold air?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Is the valve itself moving ??

Air pockets still in the cooling system??

If this is a 22rec I have noticed if the coolant level is to low you will not have any heat.

rworegon

Are the heater hoses on the engine side getting warm/hot? A blockage in a hose? The valve?

YotaSnap

Passenger side under dash ends the cable to open the valve which is connected to a metal rod. Is there something there I can check?

I've moved the rod in both directions to no avail. Both hoses get heat I believe.

It is a 22re

osv

as posted earlier, you need to confirm that the heater core valve is opening and closing, which is what it sounds like you are looking at right now.

move the dash lever, see if it moves the valve... the valve could be frozen in one position.

YotaSnap

So the metal rod is the valve? It does move.

Gevo

Where did you attach the garden hose to circulate the water? and where did the water come out of?

YotaSnap

Standing in front of the truck facing the engine, I removed the hoses and put the garden hose on the nipple to the left (closest to passenger side. Water came from the nipple closest to the driver side.

Gevo

That clearly shows its flowing fine in that portion. Have you confirmed your water pump is working at its correct capacity?

YotaSnap

I'm not so sure how that's done

kirkerik

i have a similar issue. Have you figured out what it was, yotasnap?

kirkerik

maybe the thermostat stuck open?

YotaSnap

The thermostat seems to be okay. I'd hope so being that its brand new.
My heater core eventually went out.

An idea for you, bypass the heater control valve.

Remove your heater hoses shortly after it has run at open temp. Start the truck. Fluid will gush from one. Plug that one in to the core..... does the core seem to flow well?

cossette16

I have a 95 Tacoma with the 3.4 in it...heater just started blowing cold air. Its luke warm on the drivers side and ice cold on the passenger side. Pretty awesome since its -10 where I live at the moment. Was reading a few forums but couldn't get a decent answer. I wouldn't think its my water pump or thermostat because the temp is fine and my coolant levels are good. Possibly my heater core? Not sure.

Any feedback appreciated.

YotaSnap

Check the temp of the inlet and outlet hoses for the heater core. If the outlet is cooler, replace it. Chances are that's what it is. Good luck and have fun

YotaSnap

Also, my heater housing is cracked which means less cool air actually hits the core. Just something else to look at... weather stripping around the plastic and on the doors get worn out.

cossette16

I'm assuming I have to rip the dash apart to check the hoses right? Isn't there a valve of some sort to check in the engine compartment on the back wall towards the passenger side? Not sure haven't done this before haha.

YotaSnap

The hoses go into the firewall from the engine compartment and attached to the inlet hose is the heater control valve. You can stop at the parts store and pick up a hose coupler to bypass the valve and eliminate that from your list. Idk where you are located but I might have a valve if you need it.

Gevo

You do have to remove the dash (all of it) to get to the core. But perhaps just by removing the glove compartment you may be able to inspect parts of the housing. I doubt that air leaks in the housing are cauing a NO heat condition.. It's most likely your core, or that valve that you are talking about.

Go to the hood, to the left of the brake booster at the top of the firewall you will see a valve with hoses, have someone move the knob (from blue to red and back) and inspect that linkage works. If linkage is good, I would remove the hose to the left (there should be an arrow showing direction of flow) and visually inspect the valve body again by having someone move the linkage from inside. If all of this is good, just further shows that you core is most likely the case. It's usually never 100% clogged, so when the motor is hot and been running a while do the touch test as described earlier. ilet hose should be very hot, outlet hose not so much.

cossette16

Say I pull that valve off and it is plugged...is there a way to clean it? (carb clean, MAF cleaner)
If it isn't plugged...heater core?
Thanks for the help guys