stinkfoot

I just bought a 93 pickup with the 22RE a little over a month ago. Just recently, it started having periodic ignition issues. It feels like a misfire, but I suppose it could possibly be fuel related, too. The check engine light comes on, but resets itself within a few minutes.

I'm only running into this with the engine warm, it usually just does it for a few seconds, and then goes back to running. But yesterday, I was on the road, and it shut down, and it didn't want to start back up. It's so random, I have no idea where to start looking. It runs great when I'm at home or able to look at it. I've been around a few other makes, but I'm brand new to Toyotas. If it's at warm idle and does it, it dies.


I've tried searching without much results. Similar stuff, but different. Also, I'm going to grab a service manual. Is one preferred over another?

93' MAC

Have you replaced the distributor cap, rotor, plug wires and plugs? That would be my first step and see if that does the trick.

stinkfoot

Plugs and wires have been replaced. Rotor and cap have not. I really don't have the desire to start switching parts out hoping it will work. I was looking for a method to diagnose what is going on. If the problem was continuous, I would have some idea what to do. But with this level of randomness, I don't know where to start. I may pull the cap today and see how it looks.

maachine

when you get the check engine light, check it. thatd be a good start. is it OBDI or II? i know right around that year most manufacturers switched to OBDII. if its OBD1 its really simple to check the code. if its OBDII you can get an app, if you have an android phone, called torque that is free and you can run engine codes. but you'll also need to buy this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Super-Mini-ELM327-v1-5-OBD2-OBDII-Bluetooth-Adapter-Auto-Scanner-TORQUE-ANDROID-/231020239232?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item35c9e11980&vxp=mtr
i have one and it works great

maachine

http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

this explains how to check if you have OBD I. the one toyota i've played with, with OBD I, the terminal was on the passenger wheel well, not the drivers side like stated on that website

Gamefreakgc

All of these trucks are OBD-I, II started after 95 I believe. So just jump TE1 and E1 with a paperclip, turn the key to "ON" and count the flashes.

I agree about the fuel and spark. The cap and rotor are very cheap and a regular maintenance item so go ahead and replace anyway, you'll need to eventually. Same with spark plugs, I hope you used NGK copper V-power plugs, they work the best as you might have issues with other brands. Fuel is harder to diagnose and there's little "quick fixes". Might try running a few of the Lucas injector cleaners, they help sometimes.

Around here, many of us use the online version of the Toyota factory service manual:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/. It has both the 22RE and 3VZ-E engines. A great place to start with any issue.

stinkfoot

So, I'm getting what looks to be a code 22.

So, water temp system or ECU? Is there any way that the charging system could have anything to do with this? I was thinking, the only times I've had it do this is when I have the lights and radio on. It's got an aftermarket radio and an amplifier. I'm just throwing some stuff out here, I know. Going to pull the distributor cap now.

stinkfoot

Could it just be the timing?

maachine

i dont know man, is the timing off? should be around 8* if i recall correctly. honestly i doubt the timing would shut it down if its warmed up. sounds like a temp issue to me.

RSR

Rotor and cap is a standard maintenance item and should be replaced at the same time you replace your plugs (if using iridium, if using other metals, every 2 set of plugs). Wires can usually go at least 2 iridium plugs (4 normal), cap & rotor changes...

Cap and rotor are a heck of lot cheaper than other solutions -- new ignition coil, etc.

stinkfoot

I've changed out the cap and rotor, plugs, and cables. It still does the same thing. Runs fine, then just suddenly shuts down.

Where can I find a wiring diagram on the temp system? I want to get a look at that sending unit and see if it's acting up. I'm guessing it's going to be right in the block, but I want to know how the system works. The dash temp gauge is reading that everything is good.

YotaWoRx

Check the resistance of the signal generator in the distributor against the FSM specs. When they go bad, heat causes them to not function.

Gamefreakgc

Code 22 is, and I quote from the FSM, "Open or short in engine coolant temp.
sensor circuit for 500 msec. or more. (THW)". Possible causes:
• Open or short in engine
coolant temp. sensor circuit
• Engine coolant temp. sensor
• ECM

Your ECT sensor is bad. $20 at Autozone, replace and CEL should be gone. You can double check it's busted by measuring the ohms with a multimeter when the engine is cold. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...40engineco.pdf. These things cause a host of issues when they go bad so having a new one in there isn't a bad idea.

In the RARE chance it's actually a wiring issue, the THW wire goes from the engine coolant sensor straight to the ECU. Check it by pulling the connector and measuring the wiring side of the connector between THW and E2 with a multimeter (with key to "ON"). You should get between 0.2-1.0 volts. You can also measure resistance in ohms if you think there's damage to the wire.

Forgot ECU link: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ne/44engin.pdf

stinkfoot

OK. I will test ECT sensor tonight. Is this system set up so that it kills the engine in the event of an overheat?

I ran it and watched more closely. It only does this when the engine is warm. The check engine light would typically come on, but the engine kept running, and then the light would turn back off. And then it would turn back on a few minutes later, and the engine would shut down.

Thanks for the help.

Gamefreakgc

Most definitely sounds like a bad sensor. When the engine is open, it runs in open loop and runs off preset values and ignores some sensors. Once it warms up, it goes into closed loop and takes signals from all sensors. If you have a bad sensor, it sends a bad or no signal making the truck do all sorts of weird things.

stinkfoot

I picked up a new sending unit. I tried testing it, but could get no readings at all. I tried testing the new unit before installing it, but couldn't get a reading on that either. I tried running one pin to the other, and each pin to the ground, never could get anything.

I went ahead and installed the new sending unit anyway, ran it for a while last night and drove it in to work today, working correct so far.

bruno4turbo

lots of great info here. heres my $0.02 first tho welcome to yotatech and the yota family post some pix of your truck!

change your air filter if you haven't already as well, again just good maintenance. get MAF sensor cleaner (if so equipped) or MAP sensor cleaner. (not sure which year they switched over, but if you have MAF is controls your fuel pump)

if it doesn't want to start after it dies check your neutral safety switch (you runnin auto or standard?) standard it's on your clutch pedal and you have to fully depress the pedal to start the car because of it, if you're running auto throw it in neutral or park to start back up (if it still wants to die)

change your thermostat as well with the temp sensor ($8 autozone)
even if yours is opening its not bad to change it, also flush your cooling system if you haven't changed the fluid recently, again just good maintenance. 22re are very sensitive to heat, so well maintaining the cooling system is very important.

actually check all your fluids and simple fixes: engine oil, trans oil, differential oil, brake fluid, power steering fluid, brake pads, bushings, ball joints, steering linkage. maintenance is the key to a long living vehicle

any fun plans for the truck? any mods? or just a DD?

thook

The only sensor ignored in open loop (cold engine) is the O2 sensor. The coolant temp sensor determines open or closed loop (operating temp) mode. So, when it starts failing or fails, the ECU can't modify fuel trim or ignition timing to suit engine temps. In fact, if you disconnect the sensor while the engine is running, it'll just stumble and die.

"Well, my python boot is too tight. I couldn't get it off last night. A week went by, and now it's July. I finally got it off and my girlfriend cried....You got stinkfoot!"