New truck, won't start.
10-01-2014, 04:25 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
New truck, won't start.
Alright guys I just picked up an 86 pickup and changed the starter and got a new battery won't even click over, what am I looking at. I hit the key and get nothing at all, doesn't have a dash so I can't see the dash lights.
10-01-2014, 06:45 AM
#2
Why did you change the starter?
Are you sure the starter was bad?
What were you symptoms before you changed the starter?
Got a multi-meter? Next to our senses (vision, smell, touch, common...) it is the most important electrical diagnostic tool.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 10-01-2014 at 06:55 AM.
10-01-2014, 09:52 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We'll originally it would kick in for a split second then stop, tried that for a bit then it compleatly quit even clicking. So I changed the starter and it still won't even click
10-01-2014, 10:13 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: San Francisco East Bay
Posts: 8,254
Likes: 0
Received 822 Likes
on
649 Posts
It COULD have been your starter, but probably not. I suspect the ignition switch (assuming that this is one of the early toyota trucks without a starting relay).
But you don't need to guess. As RAD4Runner points out, you CAN'T diagnose electrical problems without a multimeter. (Don't have one? No excuse for that! http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html) Pull the switched connector from the starter (small wire), measure voltage to ground, then turn the key. Try wiggling the entire ignition switch; if you get no voltage, it's most likely the switch but could be wiring. If the voltage bumps up and down as you wiggle, almost certainly the switch.
If you get good voltage by turning the key (and assuming you didn't get a bum starter), snake your hand in there to measure voltage to ground on the fat wire. (Be careful; if you short that one to ground with a screwdriver, for instance, you're going to throw one helluva spark!)
But you don't need to guess. As RAD4Runner points out, you CAN'T diagnose electrical problems without a multimeter. (Don't have one? No excuse for that! http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html) Pull the switched connector from the starter (small wire), measure voltage to ground, then turn the key. Try wiggling the entire ignition switch; if you get no voltage, it's most likely the switch but could be wiring. If the voltage bumps up and down as you wiggle, almost certainly the switch.
If you get good voltage by turning the key (and assuming you didn't get a bum starter), snake your hand in there to measure voltage to ground on the fat wire. (Be careful; if you short that one to ground with a screwdriver, for instance, you're going to throw one helluva spark!)
Last edited by scope103; 10-01-2014 at 10:15 AM.
10-01-2014, 12:20 PM
#5
If you do not have a volt-meter right now, use the other senses.
See if you got lights?
Hear any beeps?
Hear any clicks?
Feel any click?
See bare metal to bare metal contact on all connections?
See if metal is shiny steel/copper color and not gray?
Ccould very well be weak battery poor battery connections, hence absolutely no clicks. Volt-meter is surely needed. Less expensive than all the parts (actually good parts) that you would replace because you are guessing.
Agree. Most likely not the starter. Many people who guess suspect the starter, replace it, suspect the first replacement starter again, then get a 2nd replacement starter, do proper troubleshooting after learning frmo all our inputs, find a different cause, then say that "yes, both the original and the first replacement starters were bad."
I suspect the ignition switch (assuming that this is one of the early toyota trucks without a starting relay).
one helluva spark!)
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 10-01-2014 at 12:26 PM.
10-02-2014, 07:17 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Whole dash is removed, it's a 22r and the connections did look bad I replaced and cleaned them and made sure that was all good. But I got a wild hair and tried wiggling the harness as I tried starting it, it didn't work didn't work then it would make a click and wouldn't work so tomorrow I'll try the switch and if it's not that it has to be wiring because after that I'll have replaced everything to do with starting except alternator but I know it's not that. Thank you guys!
Trending Topics
10-02-2014, 07:17 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Whole dash is removed, it's a 22r and the connections did look bad I replaced and cleaned them and made sure that was all good. But I got a wild hair and tried wiggling the harness as I tried starting it, it didn't work didn't work then it would make a click and wouldn't work so tomorrow I'll try the switch and if it's not that it has to be wiring because after that I'll have replaced everything to do with starting except alternator but I know it's not that. Thank you guys!
10-03-2014, 10:37 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah checked fuses, and if i would have found it oem i would have kept it close but i got it with no bed no dash no interior other than seats and steering wheel. so i figured out the no click issue, neutral saftey switch, bypassed that, got some click but the starter still wont rotate, a buddy mentioned that the engine was possibly seazed but i checked that and its not. but i just ran into a big problem today i went to the parts store to order an ignition switch and i cant get one till tuesday. is there a temp fix such as hot wire, something just to get this damn thing to crank? im going to try and bypass the starter relay tomarrow because last night to my knowledge it was a 22r but i looked more at the engine and its a 22re. so i guess ill try that and any help is appriciated. thank you guys for the suggestions this foriegn stuff is all new to me.
10-03-2014, 11:01 PM
#11
What part of the ignition switch??
You do know with the key cylinder removed you can still turn the electrical part of the switch with a flat screw driver.
Hot wire 12VDC to positive side of coil
12vdc to the starter solenoid a remote starter switch works wonders.
You do know with the key cylinder removed you can still turn the electrical part of the switch with a flat screw driver.
Hot wire 12VDC to positive side of coil
12vdc to the starter solenoid a remote starter switch works wonders.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
aciorba23
99+ Tundra, 00+ Sequoia, 98+ Land Cruiser/LX470
1
06-29-2015 04:18 PM
